The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the Command
of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
Title: History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.
To The Sources Of The Missouri, Thence Across The Rocky
Mountains And Down The River Columbia To The Pacific Ocean.
Performed During The Years 1804-5-6.
Author: Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
Editor: Paul Allen
Release Date: August 20, 2005 [EBook #16565]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. ***
Produced by The Library of Congress, Marilynda
Fraser-Cunliffe, Peter Barozzi and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
--------------------------------------------------------
| * Transcriber's Note: Every effort has been made |
| to replicate this text as faithfully as possible, |
| including obsolete and variant spellings and other |
| inconsistencies. Where the text has been changed |
| to correct an obvious error by the publisher, the |
| word has been marked with an asterisk. |
--------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: A Map of Lewis and Clark's Track, Across the Western
Portion of North America, From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean;
by Order of the Executive of the United States, in 1804, 5&6.
Copied by Samuel Lewis from the Original Drawing by Wm. Clark.]
HISTORY
OF
THE EXPEDITION
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
_CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK,_
TO
THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI,
THENCE
ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
AND DOWN THE
RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6.
By order of the
GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES.
PREPARED FOR THE PRESS
BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
_PHILADELPHIA_
PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND
ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK.
J. Maxwell, Printer
1814.
DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:
BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the
thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of
America, A.D. 1814, Bradford and Inskeep, of the said district,
have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right
whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit:
"History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and
Clark, to the Sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky
Mountains, and down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean.
Performed during the Years 1804-5-6, by order of the Government of
the United States. Prepared for the press by Paul Allen, Esquire."
In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled
"An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies
of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such
copies during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act,
entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, "An act for
the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps,
charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies
during the times therein mentioned," and extending the benefits
thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical
and other prints."
DAVID CALDWELL,
Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania.
PREFACE.
In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor owes equally to
himself and to others, to state the circumstances which have preceded
the publication, and to explain his own share in compiling them.
It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been himself the
editor of his own travels, and he was on his way towards Philadelphia
for that purpose when his sudden death frustrated these intentions.
After a considerable and unavoidable delay, the papers connected with
the expedition were deposited with another gentleman, who, in order to
render the lapse of time as little injurious as possible, proceeded
immediately to collect and investigate all the materials within his
reach.
Of the incidents of each day during the expedition, a minute journal was
kept by captain Lewis or captain Clark, and sometimes by both, which was
afterwards revised and enlarged at the different periods of leisure
which occurred on the route. These were carefully perused in conjunction
with captain Clark himself, who was able from his own recollection of
the journey, as well as from a constant residence in Louisiana since his
return, to supply a great mass of explanations, and much additional
information with regard to part of the route which has been more
recently explored. Besides these, recourse was had to the manuscript
journals kept by two of the serjeants, one of which, the least minute
and valuable, has already been published. That nothing might be wanting
to the accuracy of these details, a very intelligent and active member
of the party, Mr. George Shannon, was sent to contribute whatever his
memory might add to this accumulated fund of information.
From these copious materials the narrative was sketched nearly in its
present form, when other pursuits diverted the attention of the writer,
and compelled him to transfer his manuscript, in its unfinished state,
with all the documents connected with it, to the present editor, to
prepare them for the press and superintend the publication. That he may
not seem to arrogate any thing from the exertions of others, he should
therefore state that, although the whole work was thus submitted to his
entire discretion, he found but little to change, and that his labour
has been principally confined to revising the manuscript, comparing it
with the original papers, and inserting such additional matter as
appears to have been intentionally deferred by the writer till the
period of a more mature revisal. These circumstances, which would
otherwise be indifferent to the public, are mentioned merely to account
for imperfections, which are in some degree inseparable from any book of
travels not written by the traveller. In a work of pure description
indeed, like the present, where the incidents themselves are the sole
objects of attraction, the part of an editor is necessarily subordinate,
nor can his humble pretensions aspire beyond the merit of rigid
adherence to facts as they are stated to him. This has been very
diligently attempted, and for this, in its full extent, the editor deems
himself responsible.
The present volumes, it will be perceived, comprise only the narrative
of the journey. Those parts of the work which relate to the various
objects of natural history, observed or collected during the journey, as
well as the alphabets of the Indian languages, are in the hands of
professor Bartou, and will, it is understood, shortly appear.
To give still further interest to the work, the editor addressed a
letter to Mr. Jefferson, requesting some authentic memoirs of captain
Lewis. For the very curious and valuable information contained in his
answer, the public, as well as the editor himself, owe great obligations
to the politeness and knowledge of that distinguished gentleman.
PAUL ALLEN.
PHILADELPHIA, January 1, 1814.
LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS.
_Monticello, August 18, 1813._
SIR,
In compliance with the request conveyed in your letter of May 25, I
have endeavoured to obtain, from the relations and friends of the late
governor Lewis, information of such incidents of his life as might be
not unacceptable to those who may read the narrative of his western
discoveries. The ordinary occurrences of a private life, and those also
while acting in a subordinate sphere in the army, in a time of peace,
are not deemed sufficiently interesting to occupy the public attention;
but a general account of his parentage, with such smaller incidents as
marked his early character are briefly noted; and to these are added, as
being peculiarly within my own knowledge, whatever related to the public
mission, of which an account is now to be published. The result of my
inquiries and recollections shall now be offered, to be enlarged or
abridged as you may think best; or otherwise to be used with the
materials you may have collected from other sources.
Meriwether Lewis, late governor of Louisiana, was born on the eighteenth
of August, 1774, near the town of Charlottesville, in the county of
Albemarle, in Virginia, of one of the distinguished families of that
state. John Lewis, one of his father's uncles was a member of the
king's council, before the revolution. Another of them, Fielding Lewis,
married a sister of general Washington. His father, William Lewis, was
the youngest of five sons of colonel Robert Lewis, of Albemarle, the
fourth of whom, Charles, was one of the early patriots who stepped
forward in the commencement of the revolution and commanded one of the
regiments first raised in Virginia, and placed on continental
establishment. Happily situated at home, with a wife and young family,
and a fortune placing him at ease, he left all to aid in the liberation
of his country from foreign usurpations, then first unmasking their
ultimate end and aim. His good sense, integrity, bravery, enterprise,
and remarkable bodily powers, marked him as an officer of great promise;
but he unfortunately died early in the revolution. Nicholas Lewis, the
second of his father's brothers, commanded a regiment of militia in the
successful expedition of 1776, against the Cherokee Indians; who,
seduced by the agents of the British government to take up the hatchet
against us, had committed great havoc on our southern frontier, by
murdering and scalping helpless women and children, according to their
cruel and cowardly principles of warfare. The chastisement they then
received closed the history of their wars, and prepared them for
receiving the elements of civilization, which, zealously inculcated by
the present government of the United States, have rendered them an
industrious, peaceable, and happy people. This member of the family of
Lewises, whose bravery was so usefully proved on this occasion, was
endeared to all who knew him by his inflexible probity, courteous
disposition, benevolent heart, and engaging modesty and manners. He was
the umpire of all the private differences of his county--selected always
by both parties. He was also the guardian of Meriwether Lewis, of whom
we are now to speak, and who had lost his father at an early age. He
continued some years under the fostering care of a tender mother, of the
respectable family of Meriwethers, of the same county; and was
remarkable even in infancy for enterprise, boldness, and discretion.
When only eight years of age he habitually went out, in the dead of
night, alone with his dogs, into the forest to hunt the raccoon and
opossum, which, seeking their food in the night, can then only be taken.
In this exercise, no season or circumstance could obstruct his
purpose--plunging through the winter's snows and frozen streams in
pursuit of his object. At thirteen he was put to the Latin school, and
continued at that until eighteen, when he returned to his mother, and
entered on the cares of his farm; having, as well as a younger brother,
been left by his father with a competency for all the correct and
comfortable purposes of temperate life. His talent for observation,
which had led him to an accurate knowledge of the plants and animals of
his own country, would have distinguished him as a farmer; but at the
age of twenty, yielding to the ardour of youth, and a passion for more
dazzling pursuits, he engaged as a volunteer in the body of militia
which were called out by general Washington, on occasion of the
discontents produced by the excise taxes in the western parts of the
United States; and from that situation he was removed to the regular
service as a lieutenant in the line. At twenty-three he was promoted to
a captaincy; and, always attracting the first attention where
punctuality and fidelity were requisite, he was appointed paymaster to
his regiment. About this time a circumstance occurred which, leading to
the transaction which is the subject of this book, will justify a
recurrence to its original idea. While I resided in Paris, John Ledyard,
of Connecticut, arrived there, well known in the United States for
energy of body and mind. He had accompanied captain Cook on his voyage
to the Pacific ocean; and distinguished himself on that voyage by his
intrepidity. Being of a roaming disposition, he was now panting for some
new enterprise. His immediate object at Paris was to engage a mercantile
company in the fur-trade of the western coast of America, in which,
however, he failed. I then proposed to him to go by land to Kamschatka,
cross in some of the Russian vessels to Nootka Sound, fall down into the
latitude of the Missouri, and penetrate to, and through, that to the
United States. He eagerly seized the idea, and only asked to be assured
of the permission of the Russian government. I interested, in obtaining
that, M. de Simoulin, minister plenipotentiary of the empress at Paris,
but more especially the baron de Grimm, minister plenipotentiary of
Saxe-Gotha, her more special agent and correspondent there in matters
not immediately diplomatic. Her permission was obtained, and an
assurance of protection while the course of the voyage should be through
her territories. Ledyard set out from Paris, and arrived at St.
Petersburgh after the empress had left that place to pass the winter, I
think, at Moscow. His finances not permitting him to make unnecessary
stay at St. Petersburgh, he left it with a passport from one of the
ministers; and at two hundred miles from Kamschatka, was obliged to take
up his winter quarters. He was preparing, in the spring, to resume his
journey, when he was arrested by an officer of the empress, who by this
time had changed her mind, and forbidden his proceeding. He was put into
a close carriage, and conveyed day and night, without ever stopping,
till they reached Poland; where he was set down and left to himself. The
fatigue of this journey broke down his constitution; and when he
returned to Paris his bodily strength was much impaired. His mind,
however, remained firm, and he after this undertook the journey to
Egypt. I received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at
Cairo, the fifteenth of November, 1788, the day before he was to set out
for the head of the Nile; on which day, however, he ended his career and
life: and thus failed the first attempt to explore the western part of
our northern continent.
In 1792, I proposed to the American Philosophical Society that we should
set on foot a subscription to engage some competent person to explore
that region in the opposite direction; that is, by ascending the
Missouri, crossing the Stony mountains, and descending the nearest river
to the Pacific. Captain Lewis being then stationed at Charlottesville,
on the recruiting service, warmly solicited me to obtain for him the
execution of that object. I told him it was proposed that the person
engaged should be attended by a single companion only, to avoid exciting
alarm among the Indians. This did not deter him; but Mr. Andre Michaux,
a professed botanist, author of the Flora Boreali-Americana, and of the
Histoire des Chesnes d'Amerique, offering his services, they were
accepted. He received his instructions, and when he had reached Kentucky
in the prosecution of his journey, he was overtaken by an order from the
minister of France, then at Philadelphia, to relinquish the expedition,
and to pursue elsewhere the botanical inquiries on which he was employed
by that government: and thus failed the second attempt for exploring
that region.
In 1803, the act for establishing trading houses with the Indian tribes
being about to expire, some modifications of it were recommended to
congress by a confidential message of January 18th, and an extension of
its views to the Indians on the Missouri. In order to prepare the way,
the message proposed the sending an exploring party to trace the
Missouri to its source, to cross the Highlands, and follow the best
water-communication which offered itself from thence to the Pacific
ocean. Congress approved the proposition, and voted a sum of money for
carrying it into execution. Captain Lewis, who had then been near two
years with me as private secretary, immediately renewed his
solicitations to have the direction of the party. I had now had
opportunities of knowing him intimately. Of courage undaunted;
possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but
impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of
those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of order
and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs, and
principles; habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact
observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against
losing time in the description of objects already possessed; honest,
disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity to truth
so scrupulous, that whatever he should report would be as certain as if
seen by ourselves; with all these qualifications, as if selected and
implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have
no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him. To fill up the measure
desired, he wanted nothing but a greater familiarity with the technical
language of the natural sciences, and readiness in the astronomical
observations necessary for the geography of his route. To acquire these
he repaired immediately to Philadelphia, and placed himself under the
tutorage of the distinguished professors of that place, who with a zeal
and emulation, enkindled by an ardent devotion to science, communicated
to him freely the information requisite for the purposes of the journey.
While attending too, at Lancaster, the fabrication of the arms with
which he chose that his men should be provided, he had the benefit of
daily communication with Mr. Andrew Ellicot, whose experience in
astronomical observation, and practice of it in the woods, enabled him
to apprise captain Lewis of the wants and difficulties he would
encounter, and of the substitutes and resources offered by a woodland
and uninhabited country.
Deeming it necessary he should have some person with him of known
competence to the direction of the enterprise, in the event of accident
to himself, he proposed William Clarke, brother of general George Rogers
Clarke, who was approved, and, with that view, received a commission of
captain.
In April, 1803, a draught of his instructions was sent to captain Lewis,
and on the twentieth of June they were signed in the following form:
"To Meriwether Lewis, esquire, captain of the first regiment of
infantry of the United States of America:
"Your situation as secretary of the president of the United States,
has made you acquainted with the objects of my confidential message
of January 18, 1803, to the legislature; you have seen the act they
passed, which, though expressed in general terms, was meant to
sanction those objects, and you are appointed to carry them into
execution.
"Instruments for ascertaining, by celestial observations, the
geography of the country through which you will pass, have been
already provided. Light articles for barter and presents among the
Indians, arms for your attendants, say for from ten to twelve men,
boats, tents, and other travelling apparatus, with ammunition,
medicine, surgical instruments, and provisions, you will have
prepared, with such aids as the secretary at war can yield in his
department; and from him also you will receive authority to engage
among our troops, by voluntary agreement, the number of attendants
abovementioned; over whom you, as their commanding officer, are
invested with all the powers the laws give in such a case.
"As your movements, while within the limits of the United States,
will be better directed by occasional communications, adapted to
circumstances as they arise, they will not be noticed here. What
follows will respect your proceedings after your departure from the
United States.
"Your mission has been communicated to the ministers here from
France, Spain, and Great Britain, and through them to their
governments; and such assurances given them as to its objects, as
we trust will satisfy them. The country of Louisiana having been
ceded by Spain to France, the passport you have from the minister
of France, the representative of the present sovereign of the
country, will be a protection with all its subjects; and that from
the minister of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any
traders of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet.
"The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri river, and
such principal streams of it, as, by its course and communication
with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregan,
Colorado, or any other river, may offer the most direct and
practicable water-communication across the continent, for the
purposes of commerce.
"Beginning at the mouth of the Missouri, you will take observations
of latitude and longitude, at all remarkable points on the river,
and especially at the mouths of rivers, at rapids, at islands, and
other places and objects distinguished by such natural marks and
characters, of a durable kind, as that they may with certainty be
recognised hereafter. The courses of the river between these points
of observation may be supplied by the compass, the log-line, and by
time, corrected by the observations themselves. The variations of
the needle, too, in different places, should be noticed.
"The interesting points of the portage between the heads of the
Missouri, and of the water offering the best communication with the
Pacific ocean, should also be fixed by observation; and the course
of that water to the ocean, in the same manner as that of the
Missouri.
"Your observations are to be taken with great pains and accuracy;
to be entered distinctly and intelligibly for others as well as
yourself; to comprehend all the elements necessary, with the aid of
the usual tables, to fix the latitude and longitude of the places
at which they were taken; and are to be rendered to the war-office,
for the purpose of having the calculations made concurrently by
proper persons within the United States. Several copies of these,
as well as of your other notes, should be made at leisure times,
and put into the care of the most trust-worthy of your attendants
to guard, by multiplying them against the accidental losses to
which they will be exposed. A further guard would be, that one of
these copies be on the cuticular membranes of the paper-birch, as
less liable to injury from damp than common paper.
"The commerce which may be carried on with the people inhabiting
the line you will pursue, renders a knowledge of those people
important. You will therefore endeavour to make yourself
acquainted, as far as a diligent pursuit of your journey shall
admit, with the names of the nations and their numbers;
"The extent and limits of their possessions;
"Their relations with other tribes or nations;
"Their language, traditions, monuments;
"Their ordinary occupations in agriculture, fishing, hunting, war,
arts, and the implements for these;
"Their food, clothing, and domestic accommodations;
"The diseases prevalent among them, and the remedies they use;
"Moral and physical circumstances which distinguish them from the
tribes we know;
"Peculiarities in their laws, customs, and dispositions;
"And articles of commerce they may need or furnish, and to what
extent.
"And, considering the interest which every nation has in extending
and strengthening the authority of reason and justice among the
people around them, it will be useful to acquire what knowledge you
can of the state of morality, religion, and information among them;
as it may better enable those who may endeavour to civilize and
instruct them, to adapt their measures to the existing notions and
practices of those on whom they are to operate.
"Other objects worthy of notice will be--
"The soil and face of the country, its growth and vegetable
productions, especially those not of the United States;
"The animals of the country generally, and especially those not
known in the United States;
"The remains and accounts of any which may be deemed rare or
extinct;
"The mineral productions of every kind, but more particularly
metals, lime-stone, pit-coal, and saltpetre; salines and mineral
waters, noting the temperature of the last, and such circumstances
as may indicate their character;
"Volcanic appearances;
"Climate, as characterized by the thermometer, by the proportion of
rainy, cloudy, and clear days; by lightning, hail, snow, ice; by
the access and recess of frost; by the winds prevailing at
different seasons; the dates at which particular plants put forth,
or lose their flower or leaf; times of appearance of particular
birds, reptiles or insects.
"Although your route will be along the channel of the Missouri, yet
you will endeavour to inform yourself, by inquiry, of the character
and extent of the country watered by its branches, and especially
on its southern side. The North river, or Rio Bravo, which runs
into the gulf of Mexico, and the North river, or Rio Colorado,
which runs into the gulf of California, are understood to be the
principal streams heading opposite to the waters of the Missouri,
and running southwardly. Whether the dividing grounds between the
Missouri and them are mountains or flat lands, what are their
distance from the Missouri, the character of the intermediate
country, and the people inhabiting it, are worthy of particular
inquiry. The northern waters of the Missouri are less to be
inquired after, because they have been ascertained to a
considerable degree, and are still in a course of ascertainment by
English traders and travellers; but if you can learn any thing
certain of the most northern source of the Missisipi, and of its
position relatively to the Lake of the Woods, it will be
interesting to us. Some account too of the path of the Canadian
traders from the Missisipi, at the mouth of the Onisconsing to
where it strikes the Missouri, and of the soil and rivers in its
course, is desirable.
"In all your intercourse with the natives, treat them in the most
friendly and conciliatory manner which their own conduct will
admit; allay all jealousies as to the object of your journey;
satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted with the
position, extent, character, peaceable and commercial dispositions
of the United States; of our wish to be neighbourly, friendly, and
useful to them, and of our dispositions to a commercial intercourse
with them; confer with them on the points most convenient as mutual
emporiums, and the articles of most desirable interchange for them
and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable
distance, wish to visit us, arrange such a visit with them, and
furnish them with authority to call on our officers on their
entering the United States, to have them conveyed to this place at
the public expense. If any of them should wish to have some of
their young people brought up with us, and taught such arts as may
be useful to them, we will receive, instruct, and take care of
them. Such a mission, whether of influential chiefs, or of young
people, would give some security to your own party. Carry with you
some matter of the kine-pox; inform those of them with whom you may
be of its efficacy as a preservative from the small-pox, and
instruct and encourage them in the use of it. This may be
especially done wherever you winter.
"As it is impossible for us to foresee in what manner you will be
received by those people, whether with hospitality or hostility, so
is it impossible to prescribe the exact degree of perseverance with
which you are to pursue your journey. We value too much the lives
of citizens to offer them to probable destruction. Your numbers
will be sufficient to secure you against the unauthorized
opposition of individuals, or of small parties; but if a superior
force, authorized, or not authorized, by a nation, should be
arrayed against your further passage, and inflexibly determined to
arrest it, you must decline its further pursuit and return. In the
loss of yourselves we should lose also the information you will
have acquired. By returning safely with that, you may enable us to
renew the essay with better calculated means. To your own
discretion, therefore, must be left the degree of danger you may
risk, and the point at which you should decline, only saying, we
wish you to err on the side of your safety, and to bring back your
party safe, even if it be with less information.
"As far up the Missouri as the white settlements extend, an
intercourse will probably be found to exist between them and the
Spanish posts of St. Louis opposite Cahokia, or St. Genevieve
opposite Kaskaskia. From still further up the river the traders may
furnish a conveyance for letters. Beyond that you may perhaps be
able to engage Indians to bring letters for the government to
Cahokia, or Kaskaskia, on promising that they shall there receive
such special compensation as you shall have stipulated with them.
Avail yourself of these means to communicate to us, at seasonable
intervals, a copy of your journal, notes and observations of every
kind, putting into cypher whatever might do injury if betrayed.
"Should you reach the Pacific ocean, inform yourself of the
circumstances which may decide whether the furs of those parts may
not be collected as advantageously at the head of the Missouri
(convenient as is supposed to the waters of the Colorado and Oregan
or Columbia) as at Nootka Sound, or any other point of that coast;
and that trade be consequently conducted through the Missouri and
United States more beneficially than by the circumnavigation now
practised.
"On your arrival on that coast, endeavour to learn if there be any
port within your reach frequented by the sea vessels of any nation,
and to send two of your trusty people back by sea, in such way as
shall appear practicable, with a copy of your notes; and should you
be of opinion that the return of your party by the way they went
will be imminently dangerous, then ship the whole, and return by
sea, by the way either of Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, as
you shall be able. As you will be without money, clothes, or
provisions, you must endeavour to use the credit of the United
States to obtain them; for which purpose open letters of credit
shall be furnished you, authorizing you to draw on the executive of
the United States, or any of its officers, in any part of the
world, on which draughts can be disposed of, and to apply with our
recommendations to the consuls, agents, merchants, or citizens of
any nation with which we have intercourse, assuring them, in our
name, that any aids they may furnish you shall be honourably
repaid, and on demand. Our consuls, Thomas Hewes, at Batavia, in
Java, William Buchanan, in the Isles of France and Bourbon, and
John Elmslie, at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to supply your
necessities, by draughts on us.
"Should you find it safe to return by the way you go, after sending
two of your party round by sea, or with your whole party, if no
conveyance by sea can be found, do so; making such observations on
your return as may serve to supply, correct, or confirm those made
on your outward journey.
"On reentering the United States and reaching a place of safety,
discharge any of your attendants who may desire and deserve it,
procuring for them immediate payment of all arrears of pay and
clothing which may have incurred since their departure, and assure
them that they shall be recommended to the liberality of the
legislature for the grant of a soldier's portion of land each, as
proposed in my message to congress, and repair yourself, with your
papers, to the seat of government.
"To provide, on the accident of your death, against anarchy,
dispersion, and the consequent danger to your party, and total
failure of the enterprise, you are hereby authorized, by any
instrument signed and written in your own hand, to name the person
among them who shall succeed to the command on your decease, and by
like instruments to change the nomination, from time to time, as
further experience of the characters accompanying you shall point
out superior fitness; and all the powers and authorities given to
yourself are, in the event of your death, transferred to, and
vested in the successor so named, with further power to him and his
successors, in like manner to name each his successor, who, on the
death of his predecessor, shall be invested with all the powers and
authorities given to yourself. Given under my hand at the city of
Washington, this twentieth day of June, 1803.
"THOMAS JEFFERSON,
"_President of the United States of America_."
While these things were going on here, the country of Louisiana, lately
ceded by Spain to France, had been the subject of negotiation at Paris
between us and this last power; and had actually been transferred to us
by treaties executed at Paris on the thirtieth of April. This
information, received about the first day of July, increased infinitely
the interest we felt in the expedition, and lessened the apprehensions
of interruption from other powers. Every thing in this quarter being now
prepared, captain Lewis left Washington on the fifth of July, 1803, and
proceeded to Pittsburg, where other articles had been ordered to be
provided for him. The men too were to be selected from the military
stations on the Ohio. Delays of preparation, difficulties of navigation
down the Ohio, and other untoward obstructions, retarded his arrival at
Cahokia until the season was so far advanced as to render it prudent to
suspend his entering the Missouri before the ice should break up in the
succeeding spring.
From this time his journal, now published, will give the history of his
journey to and from the Pacific ocean, until his return to St. Louis on
the twenty-third of September, 1806. Never did a similar event excite
more joy through the United States. The humblest of its citizens had
taken a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward
with impatience for the information it would furnish. Their anxieties
too for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of excitement
by lugubrious rumours, circulated from time to time on uncertain
authorities, and uncontradicted by letters, or other direct information,
from the time they had left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the
river in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual return to
St. Louis.
It was the middle of February, 1807, before captain Lewis, with his
companion captain Clarke, reached the city of Washington, where congress
was then in session. That body granted to the two chiefs and their
followers the donation of lands which they had been encouraged to expect
in reward of their toil and dangers. Captain Lewis was soon after
appointed governor of Louisiana, and captain Clarke a general of its
militia, and agent of the United States for Indian affairs in that
department.
A considerable time intervened before the governor's arrival at St.
Louis. He found the territory distracted by feuds and contentions among
the officers of the government, and the people themselves divided by
these into factions and parties. He determined at once to take no side
with either; but to use every endeavour to conciliate and harmonize
them. The even-handed justice he administered to all soon established a
respect for his person and authority; and perseverance and time wore
down animosities, and reunited the citizens again into one family.
Governor Lewis had, from early life, been subject to hypochondriac
affections. It was a constitutional disposition in all the nearer
branches of the family of his name, and was more immediately inherited
by him from his father. They had not, however, been so strong as to give
uneasiness to his family. While he lived with me in Washington I
observed at times sensible depressions of mind: but knowing their
constitutional source, I estimated their course by what I had seen in
the family. During his western expedition, the constant exertion which
that required of all the faculties of body and mind, suspended these
distressing affections; but after his establishment at St. Louis in
sedentary occupations, they returned upon him with redoubled vigour, and
began seriously to alarm his friends. He was in a paroxysm of one of
these, when his affairs rendered it necessary for him to go to
Washington. He proceeded to the Chickasaw Bluffs, where he arrived on
the sixteenth of September, 1809, with a view of continuing his journey
thence by water. Mr. Neely, agent of the United States with the
Chickasaw Indians, arriving there two days after, found him extremely
indisposed, and betraying at times some symptoms of a derangement of
mind. The rumours of a war with England, and apprehensions that he might
lose the papers he was bringing on, among which were the vouchers of his
public accounts, and the journals and papers of his western expedition,
induced him here to change his mind, and to take his course by land
through the Chickasaw country. Although he appeared somewhat relieved,
Mr. Neely kindly determined to accompany and watch over him.
Unfortunately, at their encampment, after having passed the Tennessee
one day's journey, they lost two horses, which obliging Mr. Neely to
halt for their recovery, the governor proceeded, under a promise to wait
for him at the house of the first white inhabitant on his road. He
stopped at the house of a Mr. Grinder, who not being at home, his wife,
alarmed at the symptoms of derangement she discovered, gave him up the
house and retired to rest herself in an out-house, the governor's and
Neely's servants lodging in another. About three o'clock in the night he
did the deed which plunged his friends into affliction, and deprived his
country of one of her most valued citizens, whose valour and
intelligence would have been now employed in avenging the wrongs of his
country, and in emulating by land the splendid deeds which have honoured
her arms on the ocean. It lost too to the nation the benefit of
receiving from his own hand the narrative now offered them of his
sufferings and successes, in endeavouring to extend for them the
boundaries of science, and to present to their knowledge that vast and
fertile country, which their sons are destined to fill with arts, with
science, with freedom and happiness.
To this melancholy close of the life of one, whom posterity will declare
not to have lived in vain, I have only to add, that all the facts I have
stated are either known to myself, or communicated by his family or
others, for whose truth I have no hesitation to make myself responsible;
and I conclude with tendering you the assurances of my respect and
consideration.
TH. JEFFERSON.
Mr. PAUL ALLEN, Philadelphia.
CONTENTS.
VOL. I.
CHAPTER I.
The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood
river. Description of the town of St. Charles. Osage
Woman river. Gasconade and Osage rivers described.
Character of the Osage Indians; curious traditionary
account of their origin. The party proceed and pass
the Mine river. The two Charitons. The Kanzas,
Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshuabatona, Little Nemahar, each
of which are particularly described. They encamp at
the mouth of the river Platte. A particular
description of the surrounding country. The various
creeks, bays, islands, prairies, &c. given in the
course of the route. 1
CHAPTER II.
Some account of the Pawnee Indians. Council held
with the Otto and Missouri Indians. Council held
with another party of the Ottoes. Death of sergeant
Floyd. The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone
river. The character of the Missouri, with the
rivers that enter it. The surrounding country. The
various islands, bays, creeks, &c. given in the
course of the expedition. 32
CHAPTER III.
Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux
Indians. Council held with the Sioux. Character of
that tribe, their manners, &c. A ridiculous instance
of their heroism. Ancient fortifications. Quieurre
river described. Vast herds of Buffaloe. Account of
the Petit Chien or Little Dog. Narrow escape of
George Shannon. Description of White river.
Surprising fleetness of the antelope. Pass the river
of the Sioux. Description of the Grand Le Tour, or
Great Bend. Encamp on the Teton river. 52
CHAPTER IV.
Council held with the Tetons. Their manners, dances,
&c. Cheyenne river described. Council held with the
Ricara Indians. Their manners and habits. Strange
instance of Ricara idolatry. Another instance.
Cannonball river. Arrival among the Mandans.
Character of the surrounding country, and of the
creeks, islands, &c. 82
CHAPTER V.
Council held with the Mandans. A prairie on fire,
and a singular instance of preservation. Peace
established between the Mandans and Ricaras. The
party encamp for the winter. Indian mode of catching
goats. Beautiful appearance of northern lights.
Friendly character of the Indians. Some account of
the Mandans. The Anahaways and the Minnetarees. The
party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by
taking part in their controversy with the Sioux.
Religion of the Mandans, and their singular
conception of the term medicine. Their tradition.
The sufferings of the party from the severity of the
season. Indian game of billiards described.
Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding
country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c. 118
CHAPTER VI.
The party increase in the favour of the Mandans.
Description of a buffaloe dance. Medicine dance. The
fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity
of the season. Distress of the party for want of
provisions. The great importance of the blacksmith
in procuring it. Depredations of the Sioux. The
homage paid to the medicine stone. Summary act of
justice among the Minnetarees. The process by which
the Mandans and Ricaras make beads. Character of the
Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the
rivers, creeks, islands, &c. 148
CHAPTER VII.
Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice.
An enumeration of the presents sent to the president
of the United States. The party are visited by a
Ricara chief. They leave their encampment, and
proceed on their journey. Description of the Little
Missouri. Some account of the Assiniboins. Their
mode of burying the dead. Whiteearth river
described. Great quantity of salt discovered on its
banks. Yellowstone river described. A particular
account of the country at the confluence of the
Yellowstone and Missouri. Description of the
Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the
rivers, creeks, islands, &c. 174
CHAPTER VIII.
Unusual appearance of salt. The formidable character
of the white bear. Porcupine river described.
Beautiful appearance of the surrounding country.
Immense quantities of game. Milk river described.
Extraordinary character of Bigdry river. An instance
of uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear. Narrow
escape of one of the party from that animal. A still
more remarkable instance. Muscleshell river
described. 199
CHAPTER IX.
The party continue their route. Description of
Judith river. Indian mode of taking the buffaloe.
Slaughter river described. Phenomena of nature. Of
walls on the banks of the Missouri. The party encamp
on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the
streams constitute the Missouri. Captain Lewis
leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and
captain Clarke explores the southern. The
surrounding country described in the route of
captain Lewis. Narrow escape of one of his party.
225
CHAPTER X.
Return of captain Lewis. Account of captain Clarke's
researches with his exploring party. Perilous
situation of one of his party. Tansy river
described. The party still believing the southern
fork the Missouri, captain Lewis is resolves to
ascend it. Mode of making a place to deposit
provisions, called cache. Captain Lewis explores the
southern fork. Falls of the Missouri discovered,
which ascertains the question. Romantic scenery of
the surrounding country. Narrow escape of captain
Lewis. The main body under captain Clarke approach
within five miles of the falls, and prepare for
making a portage over the rapids. 251
CHAPTER XI.
Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri
at the junction of the Medicine river. The
difficulty of transporting the baggage at the falls.
The party employed in the construction of a boat of
skins. The embarrassments they had to encounter for
the want of proper materials. During the work the
party much troubled by white bears. Violent
hail-storm, and providential escape of captain
Clarke and his party. Description of a remarkable
fountain. Singular explosion heard from the Black
mountains. The boat found to be insufficient, and
the serious disappointment of the party. Captain
Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by building
canoes, and accomplishes the task. 275
CHAPTER XII.
The party embark on board the canoes. Description of
Smith's river. Character of the country, &c.
Dearborne's river described. Captain Clarke precedes
the party for the purpose of discovering the Indians
of the Rocky mountains. Magnificent rocky
appearances on the borders of the river denominated
the Gates of the Rocky mountains. Captain Clarke
arrives at the three forks of the Missouri without
overtaking the Indians. The party arrive at the
three forks, of which a peculiar and interesting
description is given. 301
CHAPTER XIII.
The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now
divides itself into three forks, one of which is
called after Jefferson, the other Madison, and the
other after Gallatin. Their general character. The
party ascend the Jefferson branch. Description of
the river Philosophy which enters into the
Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a small party go in
advance in search of the Shoshonees. Description of
the country, &c. bordering on the river. Captain
Lewis still preceding the main party in quest of the
Shoshonees. A singular accident which prevented
captain Clarke from following captain Lewis's
advice, and ascending the middle fork of the river.
Description of Philanthropy river, another stream
running into the Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a
small party having been unsuccessful in their first
attempt, set off a second time in quest of the
Shoshonees. 328
CHAPTER XIV.
Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in
search of the Shoshonees; his ill success on the
first interview. The party with captain Lewis at
length discover the source of the Missouri. Captain
Clarke with the main body still employed in
ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river. Captain
Lewis's second interview with the Shoshonees
attended with success. The interesting ceremonies of
his first introduction to the natives, detailed at
large. Their hospitality. Their mode of hunting the
antelope. The difficulties encountered by captain
Clarke and the main body in ascending the river. The
suspicions entertained of captain Lewis by the
Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them. The
ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by
singular adventure. The Indians still jealous, and
the great pains taken by captain Lewis to preserve
their confidence. Captain Clarke arrives with the
main body exhausted by the difficulties they
underwent. 354
CHAPTER XV.
Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau
and the chief of the Shoshonees. Council held with
that nation, and favourable result. The extreme
navigable point of the Missouri mentioned. General
character of the river and of the country through
which it passes. Captain Clarke in exploring the
source of the Columbia falls in company with another
party of Shoshonees. The geographical information
acquired from one of that party. Their manner of
catching fish. The party reach Lewis river. The
difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter
in his route. Friendship and hospitality of the
Shoshonees. The party with captain Lewis employed in
making saddles, and preparing for the journey. 381
CHAPTER XVI.
Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee. The
fidelity and honour of that tribe. The party set out
on their journey. The conduct of Cameahwait
reproved, and himself reconciled. The easy
parturition of the Shoshonee women. History of this
nation. Their terror of the Pawkees. Their
government and family economy in their treatment of
their women. Their complaints of Spanish treachery.
Description of their weapons of warfare. Their
curious mode of making a shield. The caparison of
their horses. The dress of the men and of the women
particularly described. Their mode of acquiring new
names. 407
CHAPTER XVII.
The party, after procuring horses from the
Shoshonees, proceed on their journey through the
mountains. The difficulties and dangers of the
route. A council held with another band of the
Shoshonees, of whom some account is given. They are
reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for
food. Captain Clarke with a small party precedes the
main body in quest of food, and is hospitably
received by the Pierced-nose Indians. Arrival of the
main body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is
held. They resolve to perform the remainder of their
journey in canoes. Sickness of the party. They
descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis
river, after passing several dangerous rapids. Short
description of the manners and dress of the
Pierced-nose Indians. 435
LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION
UP THE MISSOURI.
CHAP. I.
The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood
river--Description of the town of St. Charles--Osage Woman
river--Gasconade and Osage Rivers described--Character of the
Osage Indians--Curious traditionary account of their Origin--The
party proceed and pass the Mine river--The two Charitons--The
Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each of
which are particularly described--They encamp at the mouth of the
river Platte--A particular description of the surrounding
country--The various Creeks, Bays, Islands, Prairies, &c., given
in the course of the route.
On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the attention of the
government of the United States, was early directed towards exploring
and improving the new territory. Accordingly in the summer of the same
year, an expedition was planned by the president for the purpose of
discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the most
convenient water communication thence to the Pacific ocean. His private
secretary captain Meriwether Lewis, and captain William Clarke, both
officers of the army of the United States, were associated in the
command of this enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions,
captain Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by captain
Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. Louis, where they
arrived in the month of December. Their original* intention was to pass
the winter at La Charrette, the highest settlement on the Missouri. But
the Spanish commandant of the province, not having received an official
account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by the general
policy of his government, to prevent strangers from passing through the
Spanish territory. They therefore encamped at the mouth of Wood river,
on the eastern side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where
they passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the necessary
preparations for setting out early in the Spring, before which the
cession was officially announced. The party consisted of nine young men
from Kentucky, fourteen soldiers of the United States army who
volunteered their services, two French watermen--an interpreter and
hunter--and a black servant belonging to captain Clarke--All these,
except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates during the
expedition, and three sergeants appointed from amongst them by the
captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers,
and nine watermen to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan
nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an
attack which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and that
tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales, and one
box, containing a small portion of each article in case of accident.
They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks,
flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were
added fourteen bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the
same manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of
dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs--ornaments of
different kinds, particularly beads, lookingglasses, handkerchiefs,
paints, and generally such articles as were deemed best calculated for
the taste of the Indians. The party was to embark on board of three
boats: the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three
feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two oars, a deck of
ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle and cabin, while the
middle was covered by lockers, which might be raised so as to form a
breast-work in case of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or
open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses were at
the same time to be led along the banks of the river for the purpose of
bringing home game, or hunting in case of scarcity.
Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a succinct and
circumstantial narrative.
All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment on Monday,
May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the mouth of Wood river, a small stream
which empties itself into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of
the Missouri. It is situated in latitude 38° 55' 19-6/10" north, and
longitude from Greenwich, 89° 57' 45". On both sides of the Mississippi
the land for two or three miles is rich and level, but gradually swells
into a high pleasant country, with less timber on the western than on
the eastern side, but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which
separates the two rivers on the north, extends for fifteen or twenty
miles, the greater part of which is an open level plain, in which the
people of the neighbourhood cultivate what little grain they raise. Not
being able to set sail before four o'clock P.M., we did not make more
than four miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small creek
called Cold Water.
May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and last night, ceased
this morning. We then proceeded, and after passing two small islands
about ten miles further, stopped for the night at Piper's landing,
opposite another island. The water is here very rapid and the banks
falling in. We found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern,
in consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. It became
necessary to throw the greatest weight on the bow of the boat, a
precaution very necessary in ascending both the Missouri and
Mississippi rivers, in the beds of which, there lie great quantities of
concealed timber.
The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance of a few
miles, we passed a remarkable large coal hill on the north side, called
by the French La Charbonniere, and arrived at the town of St. Charles.
Here we remained a few days.
St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the Missouri, about
twenty-one miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It is
situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently high to protect it from the
annual risings of the river in the month of June, and at the foot of a
range of small hills, which have occasioned its being called Petite
Cote, a name by which it is more known to the French than by that of St.
Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length and running
parallel with the river, divides the town, which is composed of nearly
one hundred small wooden houses, besides a chapel. The inhabitants,
about four hundred and fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the
French of Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless
gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of France: yet,
like most of their countrymen in America, they are but ill qualified for
the rude life of a frontier; not that they are without talent, for they
possess much natural genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of
enterprize, for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and
hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry is
without system, and without perseverance. The surrounding country,
therefore, though rich, is not, in general, well cultivated; the
inhabitants chiefly subsisting by hunting and trade with the Indians,
and confine their culture to gardening, in which they excel.
Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained by business at St.
Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May 21st, in the afternoon, but were
prevented by wind and rain from going more than about three miles, when
we encamped on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek
which falls in on the south side.
On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several small farms on
the bank of the river, a number of islands, and a large creek on the
south side, called Bonhomme, or Goodman's river. A small number of
emigrants from the United States have settled on the sides of this
creek, which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, and
encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here we met with a camp
of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at St. Charles, with a promise of
procuring us some provisions by the time we overtook them. They now made
us a present of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of
whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia and Illinois
river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but occasionally hunt on
the Missouri.
May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached a river
emptying itself on the north side, called Osage Woman river. It is about
thirty yards wide, and has now a settlement of thirty or forty families
from the United States. About a mile and a half beyond this is a large
cave, on the south side at the foot of cliffs nearby three hundred feet
high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift at this place. The
cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty feet deep, and twenty
high, it is known by the name of the Tavern, among the traders who have
written their names on the rock, and painted some images which command
the homage of the Indians and French. About a little further we passed a
small creek called Tavern creek, and encamped on the south side of the
river, having gone nine miles.
Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid, called the
Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets for half a mile against some
projecting rocks on the south side. We were less fortunate in attempting
a second place of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the
bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly,
between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly moving and
banking with the violence of the current. The boat struck on it, and
would have upset immediately, if the men had not jumped into the water
and held her, till the sand washed from under her. We encamped on the
south side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25, passed
on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the north, two small
creeks and several islands, and stopped for the night at the entrance of
a creek on the north side, called by the French La Charrette, ten miles
from our last encampment, and a little above a small village of the same
name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor families who
have fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade, and form the
last establishment of whites on the Missouri. It rained last night, yet
we found this morning that the river had fallen several inches.
May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen miles to-day. We
passed in the morning several islands, the largest of which is Buffaloe
island, separated from the southern side by a small channel which
receives the waters of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's
creek, a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side. The next
day we sailed along a large island called Otter island, on the northern
side, extending nearly ten miles in length, narrow but high in its
situation, and one of the most fertile in the whole river. Between it
and the northern shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same
name with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore is a creek
twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the course of the day we met two
canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route, from
the Mahar nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the
river--one large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte, and three
others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance of fifteen miles we
encamped on a willow island, at the entrance of the river Gasconade.
This river falls into the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles
from the Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles in
a course generally northeast through a hilly country. On its banks are a
number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed some mines of lead in the
vicinity. Its width at the mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards,
and its depth nineteen feet.
Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying our provisions, and
making the necessary celestial observations. This being completed, we
set sail on the 29th at four o'clock, and at four miles distance
encamped on the south-side, above a small creek, called Deer creek. The
next day, 30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a
large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a French
trader of that name, just above a creek called after the same person.
Beyond this is a large island, and at the distance of four miles, Rush
creek coming in from the south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north,
about fifty yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on
the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth of Grindstone
creek. The rain which began last night continued through the day,
accompanied with high wind and some hail. The river has been rising fast
for two days, and the country around appears full of water. Along the
sides of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood, the
sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and rushes--the high
west wind and rain compelled us to remain all the next day, May 31. In
the afternoon a boat came down from the Grand Osage river, bringing a
letter from a person sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river,
which mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana was
committed to the flames--that the Indians would not believe that the
Americans were owners of that country, and disregarded St. Louis and its
supplies. The party was occupied in hunting, in the course of which,
they caught in the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the
next morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear creek, a
stream of about twenty-five yards width; but the wind being ahead and
the current rapid, we were unable to make more than thirteen miles to
the mouth of the Osage river; where we encamped and remained the
following day, for the purpose of making celestial observations. The
Osage river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and
thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river. Its
general course is west and west southwest through a rich and level
country. At the junction the Missouri is about eight hundred and
seventy-five yards wide, and the Osage three hundred and ninety-seven.
The low point of junction is in latitude 38° 31' 16", and at a short
distance from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed a
delightful prospect of the country.
The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks
at a considerable distance from this place. Their present name however,
seems to have originated from the French traders, for both among
themselves and their neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They
number between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of
three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors, living in
a village on the south bank of the river--the Little Osages, of nearly
half that number, residing at the distance of six miles from them--and
the Arkansaw band, a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left
them some years ago, under the command of a chief called the Bigfoot,
and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the Arkansaw. In person
the Osages are among the largest and best formed Indians, and are said
to possess fine military capacities; but residing as they do in
villages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem
less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of
rifles gives a great superiority. Among the peculiarities of this
people, there is nothing more remarkable than the tradition relative to
their origin. According to universal belief, the founder of the nation
was a snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage, till
a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the
shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man, but with
the change of his nature, he had not forgotten his native seats on the
Osage, towards which, he immediately bent his way. He was however soon
overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the Great Spirit
appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and
cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his
original residence, but as he approached the river, he was met by a
beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came
to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his
own, for he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the
daughter of the beaver came, and having by her entreaties reconciled her
father to this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should
marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the
river. The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there soon
came the village and the nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have
ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining
from the chace of the beaver, because in killing that animal, they
killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, since the trade
with the whites has rendered beaver skins more valuable, the sanctity of
these maternal relatives has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have
nearly lost all the privileges of kindred.
On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three miles distant,
reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from a rock of that appearance
near its entrance. Two miles further we encamped at Moreau creek, a
stream of twenty yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we
passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called from the
abundance of the tree of that name; near which is a small creek, named
Nightingale creek, from a bird of that species, who sang for us during
the night. Beyond Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and
at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards wide, entering
from the north, and known by the name of Cedar creek. At seven and a
half miles further, we passed on the south side another creek, which we
called Mast creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by
running under a concealed tree; a little above is another creek on the
left, one mile beyond which we encamped on the southern shore under high
projecting cliffs. The French had reported that lead ore was to be found
in this place, but on examining the hills, we could discern no
appearance of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land
covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths of the
creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber. On the north the land
is rich and well situated. We made seventeen and a half miles this day.
The river is falling slowly. We continued our route the next morning
early: a small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the
north, known to the French by the name of Little Good Woman's creek, and
again Big Rock creek on the south were the only streams we passed this
morning. At eleven o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined
together, in which two French traders were descending, from eighty
leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered, and caught great
quantities of beaver, but had lost much of their game by fires from the
prairies. They told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in
the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two miles
further, we reached on the south Little Manitou creek, which takes its
name from a strange figure resembling the bust of a man, with the horns
of a stag, painted on a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit
or deity. Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which renders
the navigation difficult, and a small creek called Sand creek on the
south, where we stopped for dinner, and gathered wild cresses and tongue
grass from the sandbar. The rapidity of the currents added to our having
broken our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a half miles.
The scouts and hunters whom we always kept out, report that they have
seen fresh tracks of Indians. The next morning we left our camp, which
was on the south side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the
river, and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about
twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure in the point
of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond this, on the south is Saline
river, it is about thirty yards wide, and has its name from the number
of salt licks, and springs, which render its water brackish; the river
is very rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek, we
passed one large island and several smaller ones, having made fourteen
miles. The water rose a foot during the last night.
The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles Big Manitou
creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid with flint of various
colours, and embellished, or at least covered with uncouth paintings of
animals and inscriptions. We landed to examine it, but found the place
occupied by a nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also
examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three miles up
this creek. We then proceeded by some small willow islands, and encamped
at the mouth of Good Woman river on the north. It is about thirty-five
yards wide, and said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The
hunters, who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this evening
three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe. We had come
fourteen miles.
June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a creek on the south,
near which are a number of deerlicks; at nine miles distance we came to
Mine river. This river, which falls into the Missouri from the south,
is said to be navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about
seventy yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues from
the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very rich salt
springs; the west branch in particular, is so much impregnated, that,
for twenty miles, the water is not palatable: several branches of the
Manitou and Good Woman are equally tinctured. The French report also,
that lead ore has been found on different parts of the river. We made
several excursions near the river through the low rich country on its
banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills, where we
encamped. We met with a party of three hunters from the Sioux river;
they had been out for twelve months, and collected about nine hundred
dollars worth of peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles.
On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks, called the
Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the Prairies of Arrows,
and Arrow creek, a small stream about eight yards wide, whose source is
in the adjoining prairies on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is
confined within a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the
south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength. About
three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north side, opposite to
which, is an island and a prairie inclosing a small lake. Five miles
beyond this we encamped on the south side, after making, in the course
of the day, thirteen miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain.
On the south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty
to one hundred feet.
The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at the distance of
five miles, the two rivers called by the French the two Charatons, a
corruption of Thieraton, the first of which is thirty, the second
seventy yards wide, and enter the Missouri together. They are both
navigable for boats: the country through which they pass is broken,
rich, and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation, consisting
of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters on the river
De Moines. Farther on we passed a large island called _Chicot_ or Stump
Island, and encamped on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind
forced us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried the
meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding country, which consists
of good land, well watered, and supplied with timber: the prairies also
differ from those eastward of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter
are generally without any covering except grass, whilst the former
abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is the Osage
plum of a superior size and quality. On the morning of the 12th, we
passed through difficult places in the river, and reached Plum creek on
the south side. At one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with
furs, the other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux
nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate enough to
engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had lived with that nation more
than twenty years, and was high in their confidence, to accompany us
thither. We made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four and
five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the north, called the
Round Bend creeks. Between these two creeks is the prairie, in which
once stood the ancient village of the Missouris. Of this village there
remains no vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and
numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. They
were driven from their original seats by the invasions of the Sauks and
other Indians from the Mississippi, who destroyed at this village two
hundred of them in one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage,
on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies
forced, about thirty years since, both these nations from the banks of
the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, and the remainder found an
asylum on the river Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves
declining. Opposite the plain there was an island and a French fort,
but there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations
having probably washed them away, as the willow island which is in the
situation described by Du Pratz, is small and of recent formation. Five
miles from this place is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped.
This river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is between
eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters the Missouri, near a
delightful and rich plain. A racoon, a bear, and some deer were obtained
to day. We proceeded at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so
rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly, that we were
obliged to approach the sandbars on the south. These were moving
continually, and formed the worst passage we had seen, and which we
surmounted with much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee
nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to engage one
of their party to return with us. At the distance of eight miles, we
came to some high cliffs, called the Snake bluffs, from the number of
that animal in the neighbourhood, and immediately above these bluffs,
Snake creek, about eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our
hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having to day
passed a small lake, near which a number of deer were feeding, and in
the pond he heard a snake making a guttural noise like a turkey. He
fired his gun, but the noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard
the Indians mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed
by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day, the river being very
high, the sandbars were so rolling and numerous, and the current so
strong, that we were unable to stem it even with oars added to our
sails; this obliged us to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so
that we could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed, more
than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and one creek on the
south side, and encamped on the north opposite a beautiful plain, which
extends as far back as the Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri.
In front of our encampment are the remains of an old village of the
Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and at the foot
of a small hill. About three miles above them, in view of our camp is
the situation of the old village of the Missouris after they fled from
the Sauks. The inroads of the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to
retire from the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near
the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile wide, had
risen in the morning, but fell towards evening. Early this morning, June
16th, we joined the camp of our hunters, who had provided two deer and
two bear, and then passing an island and a prairie on the north covered
with a species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and a swift
current, to an encampment for the evening, on the north side, at ten
miles distance. The timber which we examined to day was not sufficiently
strong for oars; the musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome.
On the 17th, we set out early and having come to a convenient place at
one mile distance, for procuring timber and making oars, we occupied
ourselves in that way on this and the following day. The country on the
north of the river is rich and covered with timber; among which we
procured the ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive
prairies, and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and
waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence more
immediately on the river; the whole is well watered and provided with
game, such as deer, elk, and bear. The hunters brought in a fat horse
which was probably lost by some war party--this being the crossing place
for the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against the
Osage.
June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under a gentle breeze by
two large and some smaller islands. The sandbars are numerous and so
bad, that at one place we were forced to clear away the driftwood in
order to pass: the water too was so rapid that we were under the
necessity of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on
the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger creek on the
north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity of a large island called
Panther Island; the other Tabo creek on the south, fifteen yards wide.
Along the shores are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At
the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on the south,
near a lake about two miles from the river and several in circumference;
and much frequented by deer and all kinds of fowls. On the north the
land is higher and better calculated for farms than that on the south,
which ascends more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The
musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe biers or
nets were distributed to the party. The next morning we passed a large
island, opposite to which on the north is a large and beautiful prairie,
called Sauk prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides
the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and three quarter
miles, and encamped at the lower point of a small island, along the
north side of which we proceeded the next day, June 21st, but not
without danger in consequence of the sands and the rapidity of the water
which rose three inches last night. Behind another island come in from
the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear Water creeks; on the
north is a very remarkable bend, where the high lands approach the
river, and form an acute angle at the head of a large island produced by
a narrow channel through the point of the bend. We passed several other
islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on the south.
22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The water is very
rapid and crowded with concealed timber. We passed two large islands and
an extensive prairie on the south, beginning with a rich low land, and
rising to the distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear
country. The thermometer at three o'clock P.M. was at 87°. After coming
ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite a large creek
called Fire Prairie river.
23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became so violent that we
made only three and a half miles, and were obliged to lie to during the
day at a small island. This is separated from the northern side by a
narrow channel which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees
and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high commanding
position, more than seventy feet above high water mark, and overlooking
the river which is here of but little width; this spot has many
advantages for a fort, and trading house with the Indians.[A] The river
fell eight inches last night.
[Footnote A: The United States built in September, 1808, a factory and
fort at this spot, which is very convenient for trading with the Osages,
Ayauways and Kanzas.]
The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance, Hay Cabin creek
coming in from the south, about twenty yards wide, and so called from
camps of straw built on it; to the north are some rocks projecting into
the river, and a little beyond them a creek on the same side, called
Charaton Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted, after
making eleven and a half miles, the country on both sides being fine and
interspersed with prairies, in which we now see numerous herds of deer,
pasturing in the plains or feeding on the young willows of the river.
25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we set sail, and
at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on the north, which appeared
to be very abundant: just below it is a creek called after the bank La
Charbonniere. Four miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a
small creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the river and
contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries, wild apples, and nearer
the river vast quantities of mulberries. Our encampment was at thirteen
miles distance on an island to the north, opposite some hills higher
than usual, and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty
feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small island, Blue
Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide at its entrance from the
south.[A] Here the Missouri is confined within a narrow bed, and the
current still more so by counter currents or whirls on one side and a
high bank on the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where
our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great exertions. We
saw a number of parroquets, and killed some deer; after nine and three
quarter miles we encamped at the upper point of the mouth of the river
Kanzas: here we remained two days, during which we made the necessary
observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat. The river
Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the Arkansaw and Platte
rivers, and pursues a course generally east till its junction with the
Missouri which is in latitude 38° 31' 13"; here it is three hundred and
forty and a quarter yards wide, though it is wider a short distance
above the mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in
width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations for two
hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above high water mark,
and continues so as far back as the hills. On the south of the Kanzas
the hills or highlands come within one mile and a half of the river; on
the north of the Missouri they do not approach nearer than several
miles; but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific
gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight, the
Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter have a very
disagreeable taste, the former has risen during yesterday and to day
about two feet. On the banks of the Kanzas reside the Indians of the
same name, consisting of two villages, one at about twenty, the other
forty leagues from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men.
They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas, on the south
bank of the Missouri, and were then more numerous, but they have been
reduced and banished by the Sauks and Ayauways, who being better
supplied with arms have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter
are not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is now
hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters have seen for
the first time.
[Footnote A: A few miles up the Blue Water Creek are quarries of plaster
of paris, since worked and brought down to St. Louis.]
On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having passed a
sandbar, near which the boat was almost lost, and a large island on the
north, we encamped at seven and a quarter miles on the same side in the
low lands, where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk
through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at five miles
distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the north, and called by
the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or Little Shallow river; it is about
sixty yards wide at its mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed
us, that the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several
falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south west, and
the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer standing at 96° above at
three o'clock P.M. One mile beyond this is a small creek on the south,
at five miles from which we encamped on the same side, opposite the
lower point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the north
between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is not good and
subject to overflow--on the south it is higher and better timbered.
July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond island, where a
small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself. One and a half miles
above the island is a large sandbar in the middle of the river, beyond
which we stopped to refresh the men, who suffered very much from the
heat. Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries.
Between one and two miles farther are three islands a creek on the
south known by the French name of Remore. The main current which is now
on the south side of the largest of the three islands, ran three years,
as we were told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the
two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half miles we reached
the lower point of a cluster of small islands, two large and two small,
called Isles des Pares or Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day
seen, and large quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had
advanced twelve miles.
July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is a high and
beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed up the south of the
islands, which are high meadows, and a creek on the north called Pare
creek. Here for half an hour the river became covered with drift wood,
which rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused by the
giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the wood. After making
five miles we passed a stream on the south called Turky creek, near a
sandbar, where we could scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and
all the poles we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large
island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the Bear
Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our mast, which had been
broken three days ago, by running against a tree, overhanging the river.
Thence we proceeded, and after night stopped on the north side, above
the island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our camp is a
valley, in which was situated an old village of the Kanzas, between two
high points of land, and on the bank of the river. About a mile in the
rear of the village was a small fort, built by the French on an
elevation. There are now no traces of the village, but the situation of
the fort may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the general
outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine spring which
supplied it with water. The party, who were stationed here, were
probably cut off by the Indians, as there are no accounts of them.
July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven and a quarter
miles this day, past two islands, one a small willow island, the other
large, and called by the French Isle des Vaches, or Cow island. At the
head of this island, on the northern shore, is a large pond containing
beaver, and fowls of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we
stopped on the south side at an old trading house, which is now
deserted, and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south. The land is
fine along the rivers, and some distance back. We observed the black
walnut and oak, among the timber; and the honey-suckle and the
buck's-eye, with the nuts on them.
The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge of our gun.
At one mile we reached the mouth of a bayeau or creek, coming from a
large lake on the north side, which appears as if it had once been the
bed of the river, to which it runs parallel for several miles. The water
of it is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs, and
the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to call it the
Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a mile wide, and seven or
eight miles long. One of our men was bitten by a snake, but a poultice
of bark and gunpowder was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a
quarter miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards wide
and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached the borders of
the river. To this creek which had no name, we gave that of Fourth of
July creek; above it is a high mound, where three Indian paths centre,
and from which is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we
came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern side, about
thirty yards wide, which we called Independence creek, in honour of the
day, which we could celebrate only by an evening gun, and an additional
gill of whiskey to the men.
The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came along the bank
of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed with copses of
timber, and watered by Independence creek. On this bank formerly stood
the second village of the Kanzas; from the remains it must have been
once a large town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek to
the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a bank of that
mineral a little above it. The river continues to fall. On the shores
are great quantities of summer and fall grapes, berries and wild roses.
Deer is not so abundant as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk
around us. We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under a
high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with tall rushes,
and some timber.
July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar, three miles
further an island, a prairie to the north, at the distance of four miles
called Reevey's prairie, after a man who was killed there; at which
place the river is confined to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar
from the south. Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a
small willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the river
towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed with small
pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls slowly, and, owing either to
the muddiness of its water, or the extreme heat of the weather, the men
perspire profusely. We encamped on the south having made twelve miles.
The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.
In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged us to draw
the boat along with ropes. At six and three quarter miles, we came to a
sandbar, at a point opposite a fine rich prairie on the north, called
St. Michael's. The prairies of this neighbourhood have the appearance of
distinct farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow the
borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this, about a
mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four o'clock we passed
a narrow part of the channel, where the water is confined within a bed
of two hundred yards wide, the current running directly against the
southern bank with no sand on the north to confine it or break its
force. We made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we
had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters saw in a pond
to the north which we passed yesterday a number of young swans. We saw a
large rat, and killed a wolf. Another of our men had a stroke of the
sun; he was bled, and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him
considerably.
July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek on the north,
which we called Ordway's creek, from our sergeant of that name who had
been sent on shore with the horses, and went up it. On the same side are
three small islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large
island called the Great Nodawa* extending more than five miles, and
containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good land, rarely
overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the Missouri. It is
separated from the northern shore by a small channel of from forty-five
to eighty yards wide, up which we passed, and found near the western
extremity of the island the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river
persues nearly a southern course, is navigable for boats to some
distance, and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not so
wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri contracts its
channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we encamped on the north side,
near the head of Nodawa island, and opposite a smaller one in the middle
of the river. Five of the men were this day sick with violent headache.
The river continues to fall.
July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last night encamped,
and saw near the head of it a creek falling in from a pond on the north,
to which we gave the name of Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal
which some of our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight
from N.E. to S.W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed the mouth of
Monter's creek on the south, and two miles above a few cabins, where one
of our party had encamped with some Frenchmen about two years ago.
Further on we passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the
south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri. This
river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near the same sources as the
Kanzas, and is navigable for boats, at some distance up. At fourteen
miles we encamped on the south side.
Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper side of Wolf
river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen yards wide on the south,
called Pape's creek after a Spaniard of that name, who killed himself
there. At six miles we dined on an island called by the French Isle de
Salomon, or Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a
beautiful plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and a kind
of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped for the night on the
northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow clay. The river has neither
risen nor fallen to day. On the north the low land is very extensive,
and covered with vines; on the south, the hills approach nearer the
river, and back of them commence the plains. There are a great many
goslins along the banks.
Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a willow island on
the north side, behind which enters a creek called by the Indians
Tarkio. Above this creek on the north the low lands are subject to
overflow, and further back the undergrowth of vines particularly, is so
abundant that they can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio
we encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately opposite
the river Nemahaw.
Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose of refreshing the
party, and making lunar observations. The Nemahaw empties itself into
the Missouri from the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence,
which is in lat. 39° 55' 56". Capt. Clarke ascended it in the perioque
about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. On
going ashore he found in the level plain several artificial mounds or
graves, and on the adjoining hills others of a larger size. This
appearance indicates sufficiently the former population of this country;
the mounds being certainly intended as tombs; the Indians of the
Missouri still preserving the custom of interring the dead on high
ground. From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect
presented itself--the level and extensive meadows watered by the
Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs skirting the borders
of the river and its tributary streams--the lowland of the Missouri
covered with undulating grass, nearly five feet high, gradually rising
into a second plain, where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with
copses of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of trees;
an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri, resembling our
own, but larger, and growing on a small bush; and the chokecherry, which
we observed for the first time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are
nearly ripe. On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile
from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various
inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand island where we are
encamped, is covered with the two species of willow, broad and narrow
leaf.
July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind from the south, and
at two miles, passed the mouth of a small river on the north, called Big
Tarkio. A channel from the bed of the Missouri once ran into this river,
and formed an island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled
up, and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on to the
south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a grass resembling
timothy in its general appearance, except the seed which is like
flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines. At twelve miles, we passed an
island on the north, above which is a large sandbar covered with
willows: and at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in
the middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which extends
to the hills four or five miles distant, though near the bank the land
is low, and subject to be overflowed. This day was exceedingly fine and
pleasant, a storm of wind and rain from north-northeast, last night,
having cooled the air.
July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven o'clock, when we
set out. We had just reached the end of the sand island, and seen the
opposite banks falling in, and so lined with timber that we could not
approach it without danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast,
struck the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly
dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had not leaped
into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and cable kept her off:
the waves dashing over her for the space of forty minutes; after which,
the river became almost instantaneously calm and smooth. The two
periogues were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately no
damage was done to the boats or the loading. The wind having shifted to
the southeast, we came at the distance of two miles, to an inland on the
north, where we dined. One mile above, on the same side of the river, is
a small factory, where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes
and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland, part of
which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is rich and well timbered.
The wind again changed to northwest by north. At seven and a half miles,
we reached lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small
distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians,
Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly as large as the Mine
river, and runs parallel to the Missouri the greater part of its course,
being fifty yards wide at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw
wild-timothy, lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the
river, summer-grapes, plums, and gooseberries. We also saw to-day, for
the first time, some elk, at which some of the party shot, but at too
great a distance. We encamped on the north side of the island, a little
above Nishnahbatona, having made nine miles. The river fell a little.
July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment before seven.
At about four miles, we reached the extremity of the large island, and
crossing to the south, at the distance of seven miles, arrived at the
Little Nemaha, a small river from the south, forty yards wide a little
above its mouth, but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying
into the Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles,
we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the southern bank, is
a rich lowland covered with peavine, and rich weeds, and watered by
small streams rising in the adjoining prairies. They too, are rich, and
though with abundance of grass, have no timber except what grows near
the water; interspersed through both are grapevines, plums of two kinds,
two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and gooseberries. On the south
there is one unbroken plain; on the north the river is skirted with some
timber, behind which the plain extends four or five miles to the hills,
which seem to have little wood.
July 16. We continued our route between a large island opposite to our
last night's encampment, and an extensive prairie on the south. About
six miles, we came to another large island, called Fairsun island, on
the same side; above which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the
hill have fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for
two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place the river is
about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber, or sawyers, may be
seen, scattered across the whole of its bottom. At twenty miles
distance, we saw on the south, an island called by the French, l'Isle
Chance, or Bald island, opposite to a large prairie, which we called
Baldpated prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running
parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from three to six
miles distance. To the south the hills touch the river. We encamped a
quarter of a mile beyond this, in a point of woods on the north side.
The river continues to fall.
Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order to make
observations and correct the chronometer, which ran down on Sunday. The
latitude we found to be 40° 27' 5"4/10. The observation of the time
proved our chronometer too slow, by 6' 51"6/10. The highlands bear from
our camp, north 25° west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode up the
country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve miles from its
mouth, at a place not more than three hundred yards from the Missouri,
and a little above our camp. It then passes near the foot of the
Baldhills, and is at least six feet below the level of the Missouri. On
its banks are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current of the
Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40", at some places, and
even 20".
Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle wind from
southeast by south, carried us along between the prairie on the north,
and Bald island to the south: opposite the middle of which, the
Nishnahbatona approaches the nearest to the Missouri. The current here
ran fifty fathoms in 41". At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an
island on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on the
south, the hills project over the river and form high cliffs. At one
point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters of a mile in length,
and about two hundred feet in height, has fallen into the river. It is
composed chiefly of sandstone intermixed with an iron ore of bad
quality; near the bottom is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed
several bad sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles,
and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of the Oven
islands. The country around is generally divided into prairies, with
little timber, except on low points, islands, and near creeks, and that
consisting of cottonwood, mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls
fast. An Indian dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost and
was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he would not follow us.
Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two in number; one
near the south shore, the other in the middle of the river. Opposite to
them is the prairie, called Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name.
At four and a half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth,
on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water, rising in the
adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deerlick, about two hundred
yards from its mouth. In this neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in
the bank. At two and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the
hill, for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river. We
encamped on the western extremity of an island, in the middle of the
river, having made ten and three quarter miles. The river falls a
little. The sandbars which we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the
rolling sands more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these
obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The Missouri here
is wider also than below, where the timber on the banks resists the
current; while here the prairies which approach, are more easily washed
and undermined. The hunters have brought for the last few days, no
quadruped, but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day:
one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered opposite our
encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag.
Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and this morning was
foggy and cool. We passed at about three miles distance, a small willow
island to the north, and a creek on the south, about twenty-five yards
wide, called by the French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and
emptying itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made two and
a half miles to another island; three miles further to a third: six
miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the head of which we encamped
on the southern shore; in all eighteen miles. The party, who walked on
the shore to-day, found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched
with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering trees
about the sources of the runs, which are numerous and fine. On the
north, is a similar prairie country. The river continues to fall. A
large yellow wolf was this day killed. For a month past the party have
been troubled with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These
biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms, on the legs,
and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, which sometimes
became too painful to permit the men to work. After remaining some days,
they disappeared without any assistance, except a poultice of the bark
of the elm, or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the
muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general health of the
party, which is quite as good, if not better, than that of the same
number of men in any other situation.
Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast, by the aid of
which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow island on the south, near
high lands covered with timber, at the bank, and formed of limestone
with cemented shells: on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the
land near it is cut through at high water, by small channels forming a
number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and we reached, in
the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte, at the distance of
fourteen miles. The highlands which had accompanied us on the south, for
the last eight or ten miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile
from the entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended the
river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the current very
rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a number of channels; none
of which are deeper than five or six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who
spent two winters on it, says that it spreads much more at some distance
from the mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six
feet; that there are many small islands scattered through it, and that
from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it cannot be navigated
by boats or periogues, though the Indians pass it in small flat canoes
made of hides. That the Saline or Salt river, which in some seasons is
too brackish to be drank, falls into it from the south about thirty
miles up, and a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running
nearly parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much more
rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with moving sands,
and drives the current on the northern shore, on which it is constantly
encroaching. At its junction the Platte is about six hundred yards wide,
and the same number of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty
we worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came to above the
point, having made fifteen miles. A number of wolves were seen and heard
around us in the evening.
July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having found at the distance
of ten miles from the Platte, a high and shaded situation on the north,
we encamped there, intending to make the requisite observations, and to
send for the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known the
recent change in the government, and the wish of the United States to
cultivate their friendship.
CHAP. II.
Some account of the Pawnee Indians--Council held with the Otto and
Missouri Indians--Council held with another party of the
Ottoes--Death of sergeant Floyd--The party encamp near the mouth of
Whitestone river--The character of the Missouri, with the rivers
that enter it--The surrounding country--The various islands, bays,
creeks, &c. given in the course of the expedition.
Our camp is by observation in latitude 41° 3' 11". Immediately behind it
is a plain about five miles wide, one half covered with wood, the other
dry and elevated. The low grounds on the south near the junction of the
two rivers, are rich, but subject to be overflowed. Farther up, the
banks are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills approach the
river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut, and elm. The
intermediate country is watered by the Papillon, or Butterfly creek, of
about eighteen yards wide, and three miles from the Platte; on the north
are high open plains and prairies, and at nine miles from the Platte,
the Musquitoe creek, and two or three small willow islands. We stayed
here several days, during which we dried our provisions, made new oars,
and prepared our despatches and maps of the country we had passed, for
the president of the United States, to whom we intend to send them by a
periogue from this place. The hunters have found game scarce in this
neighbourhood; they have seen deer, turkies, and grouse; we have also an
abundance of ripe grapes; and one of our men caught a white catfish, the
eyes of which were small, and its tail resembling that of a dolphin. The
present season is that in which the Indians go out into the prairies to
hunt the buffaloe; but as we discovered some hunter's tracks, and
observed the plains on fire in the direction of their villages, we hoped
that they might have returned to gather the green indian corn, and
therefore despatched two men to the Ottoes or Pawnee villages with a
present of tobacco, and an invitation to the chiefs to visit us. They
returned after two days absence. Their first course was through an open
prairie to the south, in which they crossed Butterfly creek. They then
reached a small beautiful river, called Come de Cerf, or Elkhorn river,
about one hundred yards wide, with clear water and a gravelly channel.
It empties a little below the Ottoe village into the Platte, which they
crossed, and arrived at the town about forty-five miles from our camp.
They found no Indians there, though they saw some fresh tracks of a
small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful nation, and lived about
twenty miles above the Platte, on the southern bank of the Missouri.
Being reduced, they migrated to the neighborhood of the Pawnees, under
whose protection they now live. Their village is on the south side of
the Platte, about thirty miles from its mouth; and their number is two
hundred men, including about thirty families of Missouri Indians, who
are incorporated with them. Five leagues above them, on the same side of
the river, resides the nation of Pawnees. This people were among the
most numerous of the Missouri Indians, but have gradually been dispersed
and broken, and even since the year 1797, have undergone some sensible
changes. They now consist of four bands; the first is the one just
mentioned, of about five hundred men, to whom of late years have been
added the second band, who are called republican Pawnees, from their
having lived on the republican branch of the river Kanzas, whence they
emigrated to join the principal band of Pawnees: the republican Pawnees
amount to nearly two hundred and fifty men. The third, are the Pawnees
Loups, or Wolf Pawnees, who reside on the Wolf fork of the Platte, about
ninety miles from the principal Pawnees, and number two hundred and
eighty men. The fourth band originally resided on the Kanzas and
Arkansaw, but in their wars with the Osages, they were so often
defeated, that they at last retired to their present position on the Red
river, where they form a tribe of four hundred men. All these tribes
live in villages, and raise corn; but during the intervals of culture
rove in the plains in quest of buffaloe.
Beyond them on the river, and westward of the Black mountains, are the
Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four hundred men. They are supposed to
have emigrated originally from the Pawnees nation; but they have
degenerated from the improvements of the parent tribe, and no longer
live in villages, but rove through the plains.
Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who wander and hunt
on the sources of the river Platte, and thence to Rock Mountain. These
tribes, of which little more is known than the names and the population,
are first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one hundred
men. They have acquired the name of Kites, from their flying; that is,
their being always on horseback; and the smallness of their numbers is
to be attributed to their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of
all the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never spare
their enemies; and the retaliation of this barbarity has almost
extinguished the nation. Then come the Wetapahato, and Kiawa tribes,
associated together, and amounting to two hundred men; the Castahana, of
three hundred men, to which are to be added the Cataka of seventy-five
men, and the Dotami. These wandering tribes, are conjectured to be the
remnants of the Great Padouca nation, who occupied the country between
the upper parts of the river Platte, and the river Kanzas. They were
visited by Bourgemont, in 1724, and then lived on the Kanzas river. The
seats, which he describes as their residence, are now occupied by the
Kanzas nation; and of the Padoucas, there does not now exist even the
name.
July 27. Having completed the object of our stay, we set sail, with a
pleasant breeze from the N.W. The two horses swam over to the southern
shore, along which we went, passing by an island, at three and a half
miles, formed by a pond, fed by springs: three miles further is a large
sand island, in the middle of the river; the land on the south being
high, and covered with timber; that on the north, a high prairie. At ten
and a half miles from our encampment, we saw and examined a curious
collection of graves or mounds, on the south side of the river. Not far
from a low piece of land and a pond, is a tract of about two hundred
acres in circumference, which is covered with mounds of different
heights, shapes, and sizes: some of sand, and some of both earth and
sand; the largest being nearest the river. These mounds indicate the
position of the ancient village of the Ottoes, before they retired to
the protection of the Pawnees. After making fifteen miles, we encamped
on the south, on the bank of a high handsome prairie, with lofty
cottonwood in groves, near the river.
July 28. At one mile, this morning we reached a bluff, on the north,
being the first highlands, which approach the river on that side, since
we left the Nadawa. Above this, is an island and a creek, about fifteen
yards wide, which, as it has no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from
a number of round knobs bare of timber, on the highlands, to the north.
A little below the bluff, on the north, is the spot where the Ayauway
Indians formerly lived. They were a branch of the Ottoes, and emigrated
from this place to the river Desmoines. At ten and three quarter miles,
we encamped on the north, opposite an island, in the middle of the
river. The land, generally, on the north, consists of high prairie and
hills, with timber: on the south, low and covered with cottonwood. Our
hunter brought to us in the evening, a Missouri Indian, whom he had
found, with two others, dressing an elk; they were perfectly friendly,
gave him some of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany him to
the boat. He is one of the few remaining Missouris, who live with the
Ottoes: he belongs to a small party, whose camp is four miles from the
river; and he says, that the body of the nation is now hunting buffaloe
in the plains: he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled
that of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, inca. We sent
him back with one of our party next morning,
Sunday, July 29, with an invitation to the Indians, to meet us above on
the river, and then proceeded. We soon came to a northern bend in the
river, which runs within twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of
which is five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than two
miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty-five yards width.
We stopped to dine under a shade, near the highland on the south, and
caught several large catfish, one of them nearly white, and all very
fat. Above this highland, we observed the traces of a great hurricane,
which passed the river obliquely from N.W. to S.E. and tore up large
trees, some of which perfectly sound, and four feet in diameter, were
snapped off near the ground. We made ten miles to a wood on the north,
where we encamped. The Missouri is much more crooked, since we passed
the river Platte, though generally speaking, not so rapid; more of
prairie, with less timber, and cottonwood in the low grounds, and oak,
black walnut, hickory, and elm.
July 30. We went early in the morning, three and a quarter miles, and
encamped on the south, in order to wait for the Ottoes. The land here
consists of a plain, above the highwater level, the soil of which is
fertile, and covered with a grass from five to eight feet high,
interspersed with copses of large plums, and a currant, like those of
the United States. It also furnishes two species of honeysuckle; one
growing to a kind of shrub, common about Harrodsburgh (Kentucky), the
other is not so high: the flowers grow in clusters, are short, and of a
light pink colour; the leaves too, are distinct, and do not surround the
stalk, as do those of the common honeysuckle of the United States. Back
of this plain, is a woody ridge about seventy feet above it, at the end
of which we formed our camp. This ridge separates the lower from a
higher prairie, of a good quality, with grass, of ten or twelve inches
in height, and extending back about a mile, to another elevation of
eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one continued plain. Near our
camp, we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful view of the river, and
the adjoining country. At a distance, varying from four to ten miles,
and of a height between seventy and three hundred feet, two parallel
ranges of highland affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the
low grounds between them. In its winding course, it nourishes the willow
islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the
groves are interspersed with hickory, walnut, coffeenut, and oak.
July 31. The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude of our camp
41° 18' 1-4/10". The hunters supplied us with deer, turkies, geese, and
beaver; one of the last was caught alive, and in a very short time was
perfectly tamed. Catfish are very abundant in the river, and we have
also seen a buffaloefish. One our men brought in yesterday an animal
called, by the Pawnees, chocartoosh, and, by the French, blaireau, or
badger. The evening is cool, yet the musquitoes are still very
troublesome.
We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger to the Ottoes.
The men whom we despatched to our last encampment, returned without
having seen any appearance of its having been visited. Our horses too
had strayed; but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the distance
of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved by the
arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and Missouri Indians, who
came at sunset, on the second of August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who
resided among them, and interpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke
went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a council in the
morning. In the mean time we sent them some roasted meat, pork, flour,
and meal; in return for which they made us a present of watermelons. We
learnt that our man Liberte had set out from their camp a day before
them: we were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse, or lost himself
in the woods, and would soon return; but we never saw him again.
August 8. The next morning the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all
assembled under an awning, formed with the mainsail, in presence of all
our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing
to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and
advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our
speech, each in his turn, according to rank: they expressed their joy at
the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them
to their great father (the president), that they might obtain trade and
necessaries; they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and
asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now
at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to
that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We
then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation
not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments
for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the
second grade to one Ottoe chief, and one Missouri chief; a medal of the
third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation: the customary mode of
recognizing a chief, being to place a medal round his neck, which is
considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each
of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and
cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a cannister of powder, a
bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared to
make them perfectly satisfied. The airgun too was fired, and astonished
them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe named Weahrushhah,
which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two principal
chieftains present were, Shongotongo, or Big Horse; and Wethea, or
Hospitality; also Shosgusean, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an
Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related, induced us to
give to this place the name of the Council-bluff; the situation of it
is exceedingly favourable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil
is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the
neighbourhood, and the air being pure and healthy. It is also central to
the chief resorts of the Indians: one day's journey to the Ottoes; one
and a half to the great Pawnees; two days from the Mahas; two and a
quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; convenient to the hunting
grounds of the Sioux; and twenty-five days journey to Santa Fee.
The ceremonies of the council being concluded, we set sail in the
afternoon, and encamped at the distance of five miles, on the south
side, where we found the musquitoes very troublesome.
August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified and cooled the
atmosphere last night; we proceeded early, and reached a very narrow
part of the river, where the channel is confined within a space of two
hundred yards, by a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south;
the banks in the neighbourhood washing away, the trees falling in, and
the channel filled with buried logs. Above this is a trading house, on
the south, where one of our party passed two years, trading with the
Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a creek on the south, emptying opposite
a large island of sand; between this creek and our last night's
encampment, the river has changed its bed, and encroached on the
southern shore. About two miles further, is another creek on the south,
which, like the former, is the outlet of three ponds, communicating with
each other, and forming a small lake, which is fed by streams from the
highlands. At fifteen miles, we encamped on the south. The hills on both
sides of the river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other;
those of the north containing some timber, while the hills of south are
without any covering, except some scattering wood in the ravines, and
near where the creeks pass into the hills; rich plains and prairies
occupying the intermediate space, and partially covered, near the water,
with cottonwood. There has been a great deal of pumice stone on shore
to-day.
August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars, made twenty and
a half miles, though the river was crowded with sandbars. On both sides
the prairies extend along the river; the banks being covered with great
quantities of grapes, of which three different species are now ripe; one
large and resembling the purple grape. We had some rain this morning,
attended by high wind; but generally speaking, have remarked that
thunder storms are less frequent than in the Atlantic states, at this
season. Snakes too are less frequent, though we killed one to-day of the
shape and size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter colour. We fixed our
camp on the north side. In the evening, captain Clarke, in pursuing some
game, in an eastern direction, found himself at the distance of three
hundred and seventy yards from the camp, at a point of the river whence
we had come twelve miles. When the water is high, this peninsula is
overflowed, and judging from the customary and notorious changes in the
river, a few years will be sufficient to force the main current of the
river across, and leave the great bend dry. The whole lowland between
the parallel range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the river, at
some former period, mixed with sand and clay. The sand of the
neighbouring banks accumulates with the aid of that brought down the
stream, and forms sandbars, projecting into the river; these drive the
channel to the opposite banks, the loose texture of which it undermines,
and at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; it
is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly falling, and the
river changing its bed.
August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of wind and rain from
N.W. we passed a large island to the north. In the channel separating it
from the shore, a creek called Soldier's river enters; the island kept
it from our view, but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as
about forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a bend
of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in from the south,
had turned its course so as to leave the old channel quite dry. We again
saw the same appearance at our encampment, twenty and a half miles
distant on the north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached
south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds. The
sandbars are still very numerous.
August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in the course of the last
evening; in the morning we proceeded, having the wind from the north,
and encamped on the northern shore, having rowed seventeen miles. The
river is here encumbered with sandbars, but no islands, except two small
ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the south side by a small
stream.
We despatched four men back to the Ottoes village in quest of our man,
Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers, who left us on the 4th,
under pretence of recovering a knife which he had dropped a short
distance behind, and who we fear has deserted. We also sent small
presents to the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would join
us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded between them.
August 8. At two miles distance, this morning we came to a part of the
river, where there was concealed timber difficult to pass. The wind was
from the N.W. and we proceeded in safety. At six miles, a river empties
on the northern side, called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon, or
Stone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des Sioux, or Little
Sioux river. At its confluence it is eighty yards wide. Our interpreter,
Mr. Durion, who has been to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining
country, says that it rises within about nine miles of the river
Desmoines; that within fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a
large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided into two
parts by rocks which approach each other very closely: its width is
various: it contains many islands, and is known by the name of the Lac
d'Esprit: it is near the Dogplains, and within four days march of the
Mahas. The country watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be
visited in boats up the river for some distance. The Desmoines, he adds,
is about eighty yards wide where the Little Sioux river approaches it:
it is shoaly, and one of its principal branches is called Cat river. Two
miles beyond this river is a long island which we called Pelican island,
from the numbers of that animal which were feeding on it: one of these
being killed, we poured into his bag five gallons of water. An elk, too,
was shot, and we had again to remark that snakes are rare in this part
of the Missouri. A meridian altitude near the Little Sioux river made
the latitude 41° 42' 34". We encamped on the north, having come sixteen
miles.
August 9. A thick fog detained us until past seven o'clock, after which
we proceeded with a gentle breeze from the southeast. After passing two
sandbars we reached, at seven and a half miles, a point of highland on
the left, near which the river has forced itself a channel across a
peninsula, leaving on the right a circuit of twelve or eighteen miles,
which is now recognised by the ponds and islands it contains. At
seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the north, where we
encamped. The hills are at a great distance from the river for the last
several days; the land, on both sides low, and covered with cottonwood
and abundance of grape vines. An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also
shot, and near our camp is a beaver den: the musquitoes have been more
troublesome than ever for the two last days.
August 10. At two and a half miles, we came to a place, called Coupee a
Jacques, where the river has found a new bed, and abridged a circuit of
several miles: at twelve and a half miles, a cliff of yellow stone on
the left. This is the first highland near the river above the
Council-bluff. After passing a number of sandbars we reached a willow
island at the distance of twenty-two and a half miles, which we were
enabled to do with our oars and a wind from the S.W. and encamped on the
north side.
August 11. After a violent wind from the N.W. attended with rain, we
sailed along the right of the island. At nearly five miles, we halted on
the south side for the purpose of examining a spot where one of the
great chiefs of the Mahas named Blackbird, who died about four years ago
of the smallpox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone rises from
the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in a knoll about
three hundred feet above the water; on the top of this a mound, of
twelve feet diameter at the base and six feet high, is raised over the
body of the deceased king; a pole of about eight feet high is fixed in
the centre; on which we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue,
and white. The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great
consideration; for ever since his death he is supplied with provisions,
from time to time, by the superstitious regard of the Mahas. We
descended to the river and passed a small creek on the south, called, by
the Mahas, Waucandipeeche, (Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and
the adjoining hills the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of
their nation by the dreadful malady which destroyed the Blackbird. The
meridian altitude made the latitude 42° 1' 3-8/10" north. We encamped,
at seventeen miles distance, on the north side in a bend of the river.
During our day's course it has been crooked; we observed a number of
places in it where the old channel is filled up, or gradually becoming
covered with willow and cottonwood; great numbers of herons are observed
to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much.
August 12. A gentle breeze from the south, carried us along about ten
miles, when we stopped to take meridian altitude, and sent a man across
to our place of observation: yesterday he stepped nine hundred and
seventy-four yards, and the distance we had come round, was eighteen
miles and three quarters. The river is wider and shallower than usual.
Four miles beyond this bend a bluff begins, and continues several
miles; on the south it rises from the water at different heights, from
twenty to one hundred and fifty feet, and higher as it recedes on the
river: it consists of yellow and brown clay, with soft sandstone imbeded
in it, and is covered with timber, among which may be observed some red
cedar: the lands on the opposite side are low and subject to inundation,
but contain willows, cottonwood, and many grapes. A prairie-wolf came
near the bank and barked at us; we attempted unsuccessfully to take him.
This part of the river abounds in beaver. We encamped on a sand-island
in a bend to the north, having made twenty miles and a quarter.
August 13. Set out at daylight with a breeze from the southeast, and
passed several sandbars. Between ten and eleven miles, we came to a spot
on the south, where a Mr. Mackay had a trading establishment in the year
1795 and 1796, which he called Fort Charles. At fourteen miles, we
reached a creek on the south, on which the Mahas reside, and at
seventeen miles and a quarter, formed a camp on a sandbar, to the south
side of the river, opposite the lower point of a large island. From this
place sergeant Ordway and four men were detached to the Maha village
with a flag and a present, in order to induce them to come and hold a
council with us. They returned at twelve o'clock the next day, August
14. After crossing a prairie covered with high grass, they reached the
Maha creek, along which they proceeded to its three forks, which join
near the village: they crossed the north branch and went along the
south; the walk was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their
way through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above ten feet high, and
interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our camp they reached the
position of the ancient Maha village: it had once consisted of three
hundred cabins, but was burnt about four years ago, soon after the
smallpox had destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and
children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves of the
nation; to the south of which runs the fork of the Maha creek: this they
crossed where it was about ten yards wide, and followed its course to
the Missouri, passing along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and
a long pond between that and the Missouri: they then recrossed the Maha
creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no tracks of Indians nor any
sign of recent cultivation.
In the morning 15th, some men were sent to examine the cause of a large
smoke from the northeast, and which seemed to indicate that some Indians
were near; but they found that a small party, who had lately passed that
way, had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that quarter
blew the smoke directly towards us. Our camp lies about three miles
northeast from the old Maha village, and is in latitude 42° 15' 41". The
accounts we have had of the effects of the smallpox on that nation are
most distressing; it is not known in what way it was first communicated
to them, though probably by some war party. They had been a military and
powerful people; but when these warriors saw their strength wasting
before a malady which they could not resist, their phrenzy was extreme;
they burnt their village, and many of them put to death their wives and
children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, and that all might
go together to some better country.
On the 16th, we still waited for the Indians: a party had gone out
yesterday to the Maha creek, which was damned up by the beaver between
the camp and the village: a second went to-day. They made a kind of drag
with small willows and bark, and swept the creek: the first company
brought three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight hundred,
consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, trout, redhorse,
buffaloe, one rockfish, one flatback, perch, catfish, a small species of
perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish, a shrimp of the same size, shape
and flavour of those about Neworleans, and the lower part of the
Mississippi. We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as
the creek, are different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind, which in
the morning had been from the northwest, shifted round in the evening to
the southeast, and as usual we had a breeze, which cooled the air and
relieve us from the musquitoes, who generally give us great trouble.
Friday 17. The wind continued from the southeast, and the morning was
fair. We observe about us a grass resembling wheat, except that the
grain is like rye, also some similar to both rye and barley, and a kind
of timothy, the seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more
like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the party sent to
the Ottoes, returned with the information that the rest were coming on
with the deserter: they had also caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he
made his escape: they were bringing three of the chiefs in order to
engage our assistance in making peace with the Mahas. This nation having
left their village, that desirable purpose cannot be effected; but in
order to bring in any neighbouring tribes, we set the surrounding
prairies on fire. This is the customary signal made by traders to
apprize the Indians of their arrival: it is also used between different
nations as an indication of any event which they have previously agreed
to announce in that way; and as soon as it is seen collects the
neighbouring tribes, unless they apprehend that it is made by their
enemies.
August 18. In the afternoon the party arrived with the Indians,
consisting of the Little Thief and the Big Horse, whom we had seen on
the third, together with six other chiefs, and a French interpreter. We
met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with which
we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between them
and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that
two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were
detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound
to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged
to share in the dispute; they are also in fear of a war from the
Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants
were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not
make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no
Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed
by a dance; and the next day,
August 19, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at ten o'clock, we
explained the speech we had already sent from the Council-bluffs, and
renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and the presents were then
distributed: we exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the
Big Horse for one of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also
gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter
of acknowledgment to five of the warriors expressive of our favour and
their good intentions: one of them dissatisfied, returned us the
certificate; but the chief, fearful of our being offended, begged that
it might be restored to him; this we declined, and rebuked them severely
for having in view mere traffic instead of peace with their neighbours.
This displeased them at first; but they at length all petitioned that it
should be given to the warrior, who then came forward and made an
apology to us; we then delivered it to the chief to be given to the most
worthy, and he bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great
Blue Eyes. After a more substantial present of small articles and
tobacco, the council was ended with a dram to the Indians. In the
evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity, and particularly
the airgun, which gave them great surprise. Those people are almost
naked, having no covering, except a sort of breechcloth round the
middle, with a loose blanket or buffaloe robe painted, thrown over them.
The names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned were
Karkapaha, (or Crow's head) and Nenasawa (or Black Cat) Missouris; and
Sananona (or Iron Eyes) Neswaunja (or Big Ox) Stageaunja (or Big Blue
Eyes) and Wasashaco (or Brave Man) all Ottoes. These two tribes speak
very nearly the same language: they all begged us to give them whiskey.
The next morning, August 20, the Indians mounted their horses and left
us, having received a canister of whiskey at parting. We then set sail,
and after passing two islands on the north, came to on that side under
some bluffs; the first near the river since we left the Ayauwa village.
Here we had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd.
He was yesterday seized with a bilious cholic, and all our care and
attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little before his death, he
said to captain Clark, "I am going to leave you," his strength failed
him as he added "I want you to write me a letter," but he died with a
composure which justified the high opinion we had formed of his firmness
and good conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with the honours
due to a brave soldier; and the place of his interment marked by a cedar
post, on which his name and the day of his death were inscribed. About a
mile beyond this place, to which we gave his name, is a small river
about thirty yards wide, on the north, which we called Floyd's river,
where we encamped. We had a breeze from the southeast, and made thirteen
miles.
August 21. The same breeze from the southeast carried us by a small
willow creek on the north, about one mile and a half above Floyd's
river. Here began a range of bluffs which continued till near the mouth
of the great Sioux river, three miles beyond Floyd's. This river comes
in from the north, and is about one hundred and ten yards wide. Mr.
Durion, our Sioux interpreter, who is well acquainted with it, says that
it is navigable upwards of two hundred miles to the falls, and even
beyond them; that its sources are near those of the St. Peters. He also
says, that below the falls a creek falls in from the eastward, after
passing through cliffs of red rock: of this the Indians make their
pipes; and the necessity of procuring that article, has introduced a
sort of law of nations, by which the banks of the creek are sacred, and
even tribes at war meet without hostility at these quarries, which
possess a right of asylum. Thus we find even among savages certain
principles deemed sacred, by which the rigours of their merciless system
of warfare are mitigated. A sense of common danger, where stronger ties
are wanting, gives all the binding force of more solemn obligations. The
importance of preserving the known and settled rules of warfare among
civilized nations, in all their integrity, becomes strikingly evident;
since even savages, with their few precarious wants, cannot exist in a
state of peace or war where this faith is once violated. The wind became
southerly, and blew with such violence that we took a reef in our sail:
it also blew the sand from the bars in such quantities, that we could
not see the channel at any distance ahead. At four and a quarter miles,
we came to two willow islands, beyond which are several sandbars; and at
twelve miles, a spot where the Mahas once had a village, now no longer
existing. We again passed a number of sandbars, and encamped on the
south; having come twenty-four and three quarter miles. The country
through which we passed has the same uniform appearance ever since we
left the river Platte: rich low-grounds near the river, succeeded by
undulating prairies, with timber near the waters. Some wolves were seen
to-day on the sandbeaches to the south; we also procured an excellent
fruit, resembling a red currant, growing on a shrub like the privy, and
about the height of a wild plum.
August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the men who had been
sent from the Maha village with our horses, and who brought us two deer.
The bluffs or hills which reach the river at this place, on the south,
contain allum, copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft
isinglass, pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above this
bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call Rologe creek.
Seven miles above is another cliff, on the same side, of allum rock, of
a dark brown colour, containing in its crevices great quantities of
cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth. From this the river bends to the
eastward, and approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We
sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles to our camp
on the north side. The sandbars are as usual numerous: there are also
considerable traces of elk; but none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in
proving the quality of some of the substances in the first cliff, was
considerably injured by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some
strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance of these
mineral substances enable us to account for disorders of the stomach,
with which the party had been affected since they left the river Sioux.
We had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river
inadvertently and making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness
was thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the water
along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, proceeded
from these bluffs. The men had been ordered, before we reached the
bluffs, to agitate the water, so as to disperse the scum, and take the
water, not at the surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that
these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the men, were
not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order to supply the place of
sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men to name three persons, and Patrick
Gass having the greatest number of votes was made a sergeant.
August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a small run
between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, however, soon
changed, and blew so hard from the west, that we proceeded very slowly;
the fine sand from the bar being driven in such clouds, that we could
scarcely see. Three and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a
willow island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the south
side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is an extensive and
delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe prairie, from our having
here killed the first buffaloe. Two elk swam the river to-day and were
fired at, but escaped: a deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was
killed; and several prairie wolves were seen.
August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this morning: we
proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, to the commencement of a
bluff of blue clay, about one hundred and eighty, or one hundred and
ninety feet on the south side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and
even now the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it at
any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also great
quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling it. There is
a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant, except that it is double
the size, and grows on a bush like a privy, the size of a damson, and of
a delicious flavour; its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then
passed, at the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on
the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone river. The
beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed into one of greater height,
and very smooth and extensive. We encamped on the south side, at ten and
a quarter miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes.
CHAP. III.
Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians--Council
held with the Sioux--Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.--A
ridiculous instance of their heroism--Ancient
fortifications--Quieurre river described--Vast herds of
Buffaloe--Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog--Narrow escape
of George Shannon--Description of Whiteriver--Surprising fleetness
of the Antelope--Pass the river of the Sioux--Description of the
Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend--Encamp on the Teton river.
August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men, went to see an
object deemed very extraordinary among all the neighbouring Indians.
They dropped down to the mouth of Whitestone river, about thirty yards
wide, where they left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred
yards, ascended a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself as
far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles, they crossed the
creek where it is twenty-three yards wide, and waters an extensive
valley. The heat was so oppressive that we were obliged to send back our
dog to the creek, as he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not
till after four hours march that we reached the object of our visit.
This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N. 20° W. from
the month of Whitestone river, from which it is nine miles distant. The
base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, the longest side being
about three hundred yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the
longest side it rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to
the height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a level
plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. The north and
south extremities are connected by two oval borders which serve as new
bases, and divide the whole side into three steep but regular gradations
from the plain. The only thing characteristic in this hill is its
extreme symmetry, and this, together with its being totally detached
from the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine miles,
would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the earth and the
loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged exactly like the steep
grounds on the borders of the creek, we concluded from this similarity
of texture that it might be natural. But the Indians have made it a
great article of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little
People, or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of
little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches high and with
remarkably large heads; they are armed with sharp arrows, with which
they are very skilful, and are always on the watch to kill those who
should have the hardihood to approach their residence. The tradition is,
that many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among
others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since.
This has inspired all the neighbouring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and
Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could tempt them to
visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits; nor any
place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top: we were
happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on
the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads
itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W. hills at a great distance,
and those of N.E. still farther off, enlivened by large herds of
buffaloe feeding at a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly
fine; there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the wood
of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover thickly one
hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds this mound has
contributed not a little to its bad reputation: the wind driving from
every direction over the level ground obliges the insects to seek
shelter on its leeward side, or be driven against us by the wind. The
small birds, whose food they are, resort of course in great numbers in
quest of subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual
assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural cause: among them
we observed the brown martin employed in looking for insects, and so
gentle that they did not fly until we got within a few feet of them. We
have also distinguished among numerous birds of the plain, the
blackbird, the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about the
size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat and thirst
forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the nearest water, which
we found in the creek, at three miles distance, and remained an hour and
a half. We then went down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in
width, and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached it
in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious plums, grapes and blue
currants, and afterwards arrived at the mouth of the river about sunset.
To this place the course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine
miles; we there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment of
last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux of our approach.
In the mean time, the boat under serjeant Pryor had proceeded in the
afternoon one mile, to a bluff of blue clay on the south, and after
passing a sandbar and two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance
of six miles on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had killed
a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught some large
catfish.
Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock before she set
out, and then passing by an island, and under a cliff on the south,
nearly two miles in extent and composed of white and blue earth,
encamped at nine miles distance, on a sandbar towards the north.
Opposite to this, on the south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or
Little Bow, and a short distance above it, an old village of the same
name. This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of earth
about four feet high surrounding it, was built by a Maha chief named
Little Bow, who being displeased with Blackbird, the late king, seceded
with two hundred followers and settled at this spot, which is now
abandoned, as the two villages have reunited since the death of
Blackbird. We have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds;
two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species being
longer than the other; and a third round and red: all have an excellent
flavour, particularly those of the yellow kind.
August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than usual. A gentle
breeze from the southeast carried us by some large sandbars, on both
sides and in the middle of the river, to a bluff, on the south side, at
seven and a half miles distant; this bluff is of white clay or chalk,
under which is much stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance,
supposed to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set the
prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a half miles, we
had passed several other sandbars, and now reached the mouth of a river
called by the French Jacques (James river) or Yankton, from the tribe
which inhabits its banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the
confluence: the country which it waters is rich prairie, with little
timber: it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be
navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of St.
Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg. As we
came to the mouth of the river, an Indian swam to the boat; and, on our
landing, we were met by two others, who informed us that a large body of
Sioux were encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men, with an
invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the third Indian
remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and says that his nation have gone
to the Pawnees to make peace with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped
on a sandbar to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the
wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen gradually, and
is now low.
Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the south, several
sandbars. On the south is a prairie which rises gradually from the water
to the height of a bluff, which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish
colour, and about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another
bluff, of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of
eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the south
side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful plain, to wait the
arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the young Indian left us and
joined their camp. Before reaching Calumet bluff one of the periogues
ran upon a log in the river, and was rendered unfit for service; so that
all our loading was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the
river are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there is
more timber in the points and valleys than we have been accustomed to
see.
Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and rain last evening;
and were engaged during the day in repairing the periogue, and other
necessary occupations; when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant
Pryor and his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five
chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat for them, and
they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the son of our interpreter, who
happened to be trading with the Sioux at this time. He returned with
sergeant Pryor to the Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a
few kettles; and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the
morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their village, which
is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he was met by a party with a
buffaloe robe, on which they desired to carry their visitors: an honour
which they declined, informing the Indians that they were not the
commanders of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then
presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook
heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of the Sioux are of a
conical form, covered with buffaloe robes, painted with various figures
and colours, with an aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through.
The lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior
arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a place for
cooking detached from it.
August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we could not see the
Indian camp on the opposite side, but it cleared off about eight
o'clock. We prepared a speech, and some presents, and then sent for the
chiefs and warriors, whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large
oak tree, near to which the flag of the United States was flying.
Captain Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and counsel for
their future conduct. We then acknowledged their chiefs, by giving to
the grand chief a flag, a medal, a certificate, with a string of wampum;
to which we added a chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the
United States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather. One
second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised by medals,
and a suitable present of tobacco, and articles of clothing. We then
smoked the pipe of peace, and the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of
bushes, by their young men, where they divided among each other the
presents, and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer which
they were to make us to-morrow. The young people exercised their bows
and arrows in shooting at marks for beads, which we distributed to the
best marksmen; and in the evening the whole party danced until a late
hour, and in the course of their amusement we threw among them some
knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they were much
pleased. Their musical instruments were the drum, and a sort of little
bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed white, with small shot or pebbles in
it, and a bunch of hair tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling
music, with which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the
council this morning.
August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs met, and sat down
in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all pointed
towards the seats intended for captains Lewis and Clarke. When they
arrived and were seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is,
in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur (the
deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving what we had said,
and promising to follow our advice:
"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons. You see me, and
the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither
powder nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village
have no clothes. I wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a
medal, they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop
and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring
chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them;
but it is better that I should do it than my great father's sons, for
they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to
your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I
went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes:
when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it
from my skin; but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are
poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our squaws."
"When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:
"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words were yesterday;
and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a
young man, and do not wish to take much: my fathers have made me a
chief: I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever.
What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever he and
you please: but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we are very
poor."
Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said;
"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak well; but I have
listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever you
agree."
The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.
We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles means
"Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some blow which the chief
had received in battle, from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second is, in
English, "Half Man," which seems a singular name for a warrior, till it
was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief;
who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior: I am
only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very little; but after they had
finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared
he would support them. They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and
Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. All these
harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation: they
begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders: that they wanted
powder and ball; and seemed anxious that we should supply them with some
of their great father's milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent
spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs, and a
certificate to two of the warriors who attended the chief. We prevailed
on Mr. Durion to remain here, and accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs
as he could collect, down to the seat of government. We also gave his
son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring about
a peace between the surrounding tribe, and to convey some of their
chiefs to see the president. In the evening they left us, and encamped
on the opposite bank, accompanied by the two Durions. During the evening
and night we had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little.
The Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of the
great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in
number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines, and Sioux rivers. In person
they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and
boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the
nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they are fond of
decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills, and feathers. Some of
them wore a kind of necklace of white bear's claws, three inches long,
and closely strung together round their necks. They have only a few
fowling pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in which,
however, they do not appear as expert as the more northern Indians. What
struck us most was an institution, peculiar to them, and to the Kite
Indians, further to the westward, from whom it is said to have been
copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young men, who
are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never to
retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they go
forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their
natural valour by any artifice. This punctilious determination, not to
be turned from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time
since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole
lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided,
by going round. This the foremost of the band disdained to do; but went
straight forward, and was lost. The others would have followed his
example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These
young men sit, and encamp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of
the nation: they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old;
and such is the deference paid to courage, that their seats in council
are superior to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected.
But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the
numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to
four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of
twenty-two, who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with
the Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were killed,
and these four were dragged from the field by their companions.
Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very minute inquiries
relative to their situation and numbers, and trade, and manners. This we
did very satisfactorily, by means of two different interpreters; and
from their accounts, joined to our interviews with other bands of the
same nation, and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled to
understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the Sioux hitherto so
little known.
The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the Mississippi,
and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now subdivided into tribes, as
follow:
First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux, Desmoines, and
Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred warriors.
Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers about three
hundred men, who rove on both sides of the Missouri, the White, and
Teton rivers.
Third. The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of about one hundred
and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the Chayenne
river.
Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both sides of the
Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing about two hundred and
fifty men.
Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the
Warreconne river, and consist of about three hundred men.
Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on the heads of
the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous of all the tribes,
and number about five hundred men.
Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's, just above the
mouth of that river, and numbering two hundred men.
Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux Indians. These
possess the original seat of the Sioux, and are properly so denominated.
They rove on both sides of the Mississippi, about the falls of St.
Anthony, and consist of three hundred men.
Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation inhabits both sides of
the river St. Peter's, below Yellow-wood river, amounting to about one
hundred and fifty men.
Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred men, and reside at
the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several tribes, more particular
notice will be taken hereafter.
Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning under a light
southern breeze, and passed the Calumet bluffs; these are composed of a
yellowish red, and brownish clay as hard as chalk, which it much
resembles, and are one hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty
feet high. At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the
river, those on the south being higher than on the north. Opposite the
bluffs is a large island covered with timber; above which the highlands
form a cliff over the river on the north side, called White Bear cliff;
an animal of that kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which are
numerous and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large sand
island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high, and the weather rainy
and cloudy during the day. We made fifteen miles to a place on the north
side, at the lower point of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's
island. The country on both sides has the same character of prairies,
with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with cottonwood, elm
and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and a beaver: the catfish too are
in great abundance.
September 2. It rained last night, and this morning we had a high wind
from the N.W. We went three miles to the lower part of an ancient
fortification on the south side, and passed the head of Bonhomme island,
which is large and well timbered: after this the wind became so violent,
attended by a cold rain, that we were compelled to land at four miles on
the northern side, under a high bluff of yellow clay, about one hundred
and ten feet in height. Our hunters supplied us with four elk; and we
had grapes and plums on the banks: we also saw the beargrass and rue, on
the side of the bluffs. At this place there are highlands on both sides
of the river which become more level at some distance back, and
contain but few streams of water. On the southern bank, during this day,
the grounds have not been so elevated. Captain Clarke crossed the river
to examine the remains of the fortification we had just passed.
[Illustration: Fortification]
This interesting object is on the south side of the Missouri, opposite
the upper extremity of Bonhomme island, and in a low level plain, the
hills being three miles from the river. It begins by a wall composed of
earth, rising immediately from the bank of the river and running in a
direct course S. 76°, W. ninety six yards; the base of this wall or
mound is seventy-five feet, and its height about eight. It then diverges
in a course S. 84° W. and continues at the same height and depth to the
distance of fifty-three yards, the angle being formed by a sloping
descent; at the junction of these two is an appearance of a hornwork of
the same height with the first angle: the same wall then pursues a
course N. 69° W. for three hundred yards: near its western extremity is
an opening or gateway at right angles to the wall, and projecting
inwards; this gateway is defended by two nearly semicircular walls
placed before it, lower than the large walls; and from the gateway there
seems to have been a covered way communicating with the interval between
these two walls: westward of the gate, the wall becomes much larger,
being about one hundred and five feet at its base, and twelve feet high:
at the end of this high ground the wall extends for fifty-six yards on a
course N. 32° W; it then turns N. 23° W. for seventy-three yards: these
two walls seems to have had a double or covered way; they are from ten
to fifteen feet eight inches in height, and from seventy-five to one
hundred and five feet in width at the base; the descent inwards being
steep, whilst outwards it forms a sort of glacis. At the distance of
seventy-three yards, the wall ends abruptly at a large hollow place much
lower than the general level of the plain, and from which is some
indication of a covered way to the water. The space between them is
occupied by several mounds scattered promiscuously through the gorge, in
the centre of which is a deep round hole. From the extremity of the last
wall, in a course N. 32° W. is a distance of ninety-six yards over the
low ground, where the wall recommences and crosses the plain in a course
N. 81° W. for eighteen hundred and thirty yards to the bank of the
Missouri. In this course its height is about eight feet, till it enters,
at the distance of five hundred and thirty-three yards, a deep circular
pond of seventy-three yards diameter; after which it is gradually lower,
towards the river: it touches the river at a muddy bar, which bears
every mark of being an encroachment of the water, for a considerable
distance; and a little above the junction, is a small circular redoubt.
Along the bank of the river, and at eleven hundred yards distance, in a
straight line from this wall, is a second, about six feet high, and of
considerable width: it rises abruptly from the bank of the Missouri, at
a point where the river bends, and goes straight forward, forming an
acute angle with the last wall, till it enters the river again, not far
from the mounds just described, towards which it is obviously tending.
At the bend the Missouri is five hundred yards wide; the ground on the
opposite side highlands, or low hills on the bank; and where the river
passes between this fort and Bonhomme island, all the distance from the
bend, it is constantly washing the banks into the stream, a large
sandbank being already taken from the shore near the wall. During the
whole course of this wall, or glacis, it is covered with trees, among
which are many large cotton trees, two or three feet in diameter.
Immediately opposite the citadel, or the part most strongly fortified,
on Bonhomme island, is a small work in a circular form, with a wall
surrounding it, about six feet in height. The young willows along the
water, joined to the general appearance of the two shores, induce a
belief that the bank of the island is encroaching, and the Missouri
indemnifies itself by washing away the base of the fortification. The
citadel contains about twenty acres, but the parts between the long
walls must embrace nearly five hundred acres.
These are the first remains of the kind which we have had an opportunity
of examining; but our French interpreters assure us, that there are
great numbers of them on the Platte, the Kanzas, the Jacques, &c. and
some of our party say, that they observed two of those fortresses on the
upper side of the Petit Arc creek, not far from its mouth; that the wall
was about six feet high, and the sides of the angles one hundred yards
in length.
September 3. The morning was cold, and the wind from the northwest. We
passed at sunrise, three large sandbars, and at the distance of ten
miles reached a small creek, about twelve yards wide, coming in from the
north, above a white bluff: this creek has obtained the name of Plum
creek, from the number of that fruit which are in the neighbourhood, and
of a delightful quality. Five miles further, we encamped on the south
near the edge of a plain; the river is wide, and covered with sandbars
to-day: the banks are high and of a whitish colour; the timber scarce,
but an abundance of grapes. Beaver houses too have been observed in
great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves.
September 4. We set out early, with a very cold wind from S.S.E. and at
one mile and a half, reached a small creek, called Whitelime creek, on
the south side. Just above this is a cliff, covered with cedar trees,
and at three miles a creek, called Whitepaint creek, of about thirty
yards wide: on the same side, and at four and a half miles distance from
the Whitepaint creek, is the Rapid river, or, as it is called by the
French, la Riverequi Court; this river empties into the Missouri, in a
course S.W. by W. and is one hundred and fifty-two yards wide, and four
feet deep at the confluence. It rises in the Black mountains, and passes
through a hilly country, with a poor soil. Captain Clark ascended three
miles to a beautiful plain, on the upper side, where the Pawnees once
had a village: he found that the river widened above its mouth, and
much divided by sands and islands, which, joined to the great rapidity
of the current, makes the navigation very difficult, even for small
boats. Like the Platte its waters are of a light colour; like that river
too it throws out into the Missouri, great quantities of sand, coarser
even than that of the Platte, which form sandbars and shoals near its
mouth.
We encamped just above it, on the south, having made only eight miles,
as the wind shifted to the south, and blew so hard that in the course of
the day we broke our mast: we saw some deer, a number of geese, and shot
a turkey and a duck: the place in which we halted is a fine low-ground,
with much timber, such as red cedar, honeylocust, oak, arrowwood, elm
and coffeenut.
September 5, Wednesday. The wind was again high from the south. At five
miles, we came to a large island, called Pawnee island, in the middle of
the river; and stopped to breakfast at a small creek on the north, which
has the name of Goat creek, at eight and a half miles. Near the mouth of
this creek the beaver had made a dam across so as to form a large pond,
in which they built their houses. Above this island the river Poncara
falls into the Missouri from the south, and is thirty yards wide at the
entrance. Two men whom we despatched to the village of the same name,
returned with information that they had found it on the lower side of
the creek; but as this is the hunting season, the town was so completely
deserted that they had killed a buffaloe in the village itself. This
tribe of Poncaras, who are said to have once numbered four hundred men,
are now reduced to about fifty, and have associated for mutual
protection with the Mahas, who are about two hundred in number. These
two nations are allied by a similarity of misfortune; they were once
both numerous, both resided in villages, and cultivated Indian corn;
their common enemies, the Sioux and small-pox, drove them from their
towns, which they visit only occasionally for the purposes of trade;
and they now wander over the plains on the sources of the Wolf and
Quieurre rivers. Between the Pawnee island and Goat creek on the north,
is a cliff of blue earth, under which are several mineral springs,
impregnated with salts: near this we observed a number of goats, from
which the creek derives its name. At three and a half miles from the
creek, we came to a large island on the south, along which we passed to
the head of it, and encamped about four o'clock. Here we replaced the
mast we had lost, with a new one of cedar: some bucks and an elk were
procured to-day, and a black tailed deer was seen near the Poncara's
village.
Thursday, September 6. There was a storm this morning from the N.W. and
though it moderated, the wind was still high, and the weather very cold;
the number of sandbars too, added to the rapidity of the current,
obliged us to have recourse to the towline: with all our exertions we
did not make more than eight and a half miles, and encamped on the
north, after passing high cliffs of soft, blue, and red coloured stone,
on the southern shore. We saw some goats, and great numbers of buffaloe,
in addition to which the hunters furnished us with elk, deer, turkies,
geese, and one beaver: a large catfish too was caught in the evening.
The ground near the camp, was a low prarie, without timber, though just
below is a grove of cottonwood.
Friday, September 7. The morning was very cold and the wind southeast.
At five and a half miles, we reached and encamped at the foot of a round
mountain, on the south, having passed two small islands. This mountain,
which is about three hundred feet at the base, forms a cone at the top,
resembling a dome at a distance, and seventy feet or more above the
surrounding highlands. As we descended from this dome, we arrived at a
spot, on the gradual descent of the hill, nearly four acres in extent,
and covered with small holes: these are the residence of a little
animal, called by the French, petit chien (little dog) who sit erect
near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take refuge
in their holes. In order to bring them out, we poured into one of the
holes five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and
caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet,
we found, on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half way to
the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it
we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog:
we were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort
of lizard, and a snake, live habitually with these animals. The petit
chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some
particulars, though they have also some points of similarity to the
squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except that
the ear is shorter, the tail like that of the ground-squirrel, the
toe-nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray.
Saturday, September 8. The wind still continued from the southeast, but
moderately. At seven miles we reached a house on the north side, called
the Pawnee house, where a trader, named Trudeau, wintered in the year
1796-7: behind this, hills, much higher than usual, appear to the north,
about eight miles off. Before reaching this house, we came by three
small islands, on the north side, and a small creek on the south; and
after leaving it, reached another, at the end of seventeen miles, on
which we encamped, and called it Boat island: we here saw herds of
buffaloe, and some elk, deer, turkies, beaver, a squirrel, and a prairie
dog. The party on the north represent the country through which they
passed, as poor, rugged, and hilly, with the appearance of having been
lately burnt by the Indians; the broken hills, indeed, approach the
river on both sides, though each is bordered by a strip of woodland near
the water.
Sunday, September 9. We coasted along the island on which we had
encamped, and then passed three sand and willow islands, and a number of
smaller sandbars. The river is shallow, and joined by two small creeks
from the north, and one from the south. In the plains, to the south,
are great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of nearly five hundred; all
the copses of timber appear to contain elk or deer. We encamped on a
sandbar, on the southern shore, at the distance of fourteen and a
quarter miles.
September 10, Monday. The next day we made twenty miles. The morning was
cloudy and dark, but a light breeze from the southeast carried us past
two small islands on the south, and one on the north; till, at the
distance of ten and a half miles, we reached an island, extending for
two miles in the middle of the river, covered with red cedar, from which
it derives its name of Cedar island. Just below this island, on a hill,
to the south, is the backbone of a fish, forty-five feet long, tapering
towards the tail, and in a perfect state of petrifaction, fragments of
which were collected and sent to Washington. On both sides of the river
are high dark-coloured bluffs. About a mile and a half from the island,
on the southern shore, the party on that side discovered a large and
very strong impregnated spring of water; and another, not so strongly
impregnated, half a mile up the hill. Three miles beyond Cedar island is
a large island on the north, and a number of sandbars. After which is
another, about a mile in length, lying in the middle of the river, and
separated by a small channel, at its extremity, from another above it,
on which we encamped. These two islands are called Mud islands. The
river is shallow during this day's course, and is falling a little. The
elk and buffaloe are in great abundance, but the deer have become
scarce.
September 11, Tuesday. At six and a half miles we passed the upper
extremity of an island on the south; four miles beyond which is another
on the same side of the river; and about a quarter of a mile distant we
visited a large village of the barking-squirrel. It was situated on a
gentle declivity, and covered a space of nine hundred and seventy yards
long, and eight hundred yards wide; we killed four of them. We then
resumed our course, and during five and a half miles passed two islands
on the north, and then encamped at the distance of sixteen miles, on the
south side of the river, and just above a small run. The morning had
been cloudy, but in the afternoon it began raining, with a high
northwest wind, which continued during the greater part of the night.
The country seen to-day consists of narrow strips of lowland, rising
into uneven grounds, which are succeeded, at the distance of three
miles, by rich and level plains, but without any timber. The river
itself is wide, and crowded with sandbars. Elk, deer, squirrels, a
pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our game this day; some foxes
too were seen, but not caught.
In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback down towards the
boat, and we were much pleased to find that it was George Shannon, one
of our party, for whose safety we had been very uneasy. Our two horses
having strayed from us on the 26th of August, he was sent to search for
them. After he had found them he attempted to rejoin us, but seeing some
other tracks, which must have been those of Indians, and which he
mistook for our own, he concluded that we were ahead, and had been for
sixteen days following the bank of the river above us. During the first
four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly starved, being
obliged to subsist, for twelve days, on a few grapes, and a rabbit which
he killed by making use of a hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his
horses gave out, and was left behind; the other he kept as a last
resource for food. Despairing of overtaking us, he was returning down
the river, in hopes of meeting some other boat; and was on the point of
killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as to join us.
Wednesday, September 12. The day was dark and cloudy; the wind from the
northwest. At a short distance we reached an island in the middle of the
river, which is covered with timber, a rare object now. We with great
difficulty were enabled to struggle through the sandbars, the water
being very rapid and shallow, so that we were several hours in making a
mile. Several times the boat wheeled on the bar, and the men were
obliged to jump out and prevent her from upsetting; at others, after
making a way up one channel, the shoalness of the water forced us back
to seek the deep channel. We advanced only four miles in the whole day
and encamped on the south. Along both sides of the river are high
grounds; on the southern side particularly, they form dark bluffs, in
which may be observed slate and coal intermixed. We saw also several
villages of barking-squirrels; great numbers of growse, and three foxes.
September 13, Thursday. We made twelve miles to-day through a number of
sandbars, which make it difficult to find the proper channel. The hills
on each side are high, and separated from the river by a narrow plain on
its borders. On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with
timber, and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe: on the south
we found plenty of plums, but they are not yet ripe; and near the dark
bluffs, a run tainted with allum and copperas; the southern side being
more strongly impregnated with minerals than the northern. Last night
four beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it was
upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches. We encamped on
the north side, opposite to a small willow island. At night the
musquitoes were very troublesome, though the weather was cold and rainy
and the wind from the northwest.
Friday, September 14. At two miles we reached a round island on the
northern side; at about five, a run on the south; two and a half miles
further, a small creek; and at nine miles encamped near the month of a
creek, on the same side. The sandbars are very numerous, and render the
river wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the water and
drag the boat over the bars several times. During the whole day we
searched along the southern shore, and at some distance into the
interior, to find an ancient volcano which we heard at St. Charles was
somewhere in this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest
appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their search the
party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The hills, particularly on the south,
continue high, but the timber is confined to the islands and banks of
the river. We had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of
these hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the hills
which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of the current
destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole texture appears
loosened, and the ground dissolves and mixes with the water: the muddy
mixture is then forced over the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes
to the depth of three inches, and gradually destroys the herbage; after
which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes at last
covered with sand.
Saturday, September 15. We passed, at an early hour, the creek near our
last night's encampment; and at two miles distance reached the mouth of
White river, coming in from the south. We ascended a short distance, and
sent a sergeant and another man to examine it higher up. This river has
a bed of about three hundred yards, though the water is confined to one
hundred and fifty: in the mouth is a sand island, and several sandbars.
The current is regular and swift, with sandbars projecting from the
points. It differs very much from the Platte, and Quieurre, in throwing
out, comparatively, little sand, but its general character is like that
of the Missouri. This resemblance was confirmed by the sergeant, who
ascended about twelve miles; at which distance it was about the same
width as near the mouth, and the course, which was generally west, had
been interrupted by islands and sandbars. The timber consisted chiefly
of elm; they saw pine burrs, and sticks of birch were seen floating down
the river; they had also met with goats, such as we have heretofore
seen; great quantities of buffaloe, near to which were wolves, some
deer, and villages of barking squirrels. At the confluence of White
river with the Missouri is an excellent position for a town; the land
rising by three gradual ascents, and the neighbourhood furnishing more
timber than is usual in this country. After passing high dark bluffs on
both sides, we reached the lower point of an island towards the south,
at the distance of six miles. The island bears an abundance of grapes,
and is covered with red cedar: it also contains a number of rabbits. At
the end of this island, which is small, a narrow channel separates it
from a large sand island, which we passed, and encamped, eight miles on
the north, under a high point of land opposite a large creek to the
south, on which we observe an unusual quantity of timber. The wind was
from the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold, and its
dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of wolves around us.
September 16, Sunday. Early this morning, having reached a convenient
spot on the south side, and at one mile and a quarter distance, we
encamped just above a small creek, which we called Corvus, having killed
an animal of that genus near it. Finding that we could not proceed over
the sandbars, as fast as we desired, while the boat was so heavily
loaded, we concluded not to send back, as we originally intended, our
third periogue, but to detain the soldiers until spring, and in the mean
time lighten the boat by loading the periogue: this operation, added to
that of drying all our wet articles, detained us during the day. Our
camp is in a beautiful plain, with timber thinly scattered for three
quarters of a mile, and consisting chiefly of elm, cottonwood, some ash
of an indifferent quality, and a considerable quantity of a small
species of white oak: this tree seldom rises higher than thirty feet,
and branches very much; the bark is rough, thick and of a light colour;
the leaves small, deeply indented, and of a pale green; the cup which
contains the acorn is fringed on the edges, and embraces it about one
half: the acorn itself, which grows in great profusion, is of an
excellent flavour, and has none of the roughness which most other acorns
possess; they are now falling, and have probably attracted the number of
deer which we saw on this place, as all the animals we have seen are
fond of that food. The ground having been recently burnt by the Indians,
is covered with young green grass, and in the neighbourhood are great
quantities of fine plums. We killed a few deer for the sake of their
skins, which we wanted to cover the periogues, the meat being too poor
for food: the cold season coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each
man, and fresh powder to those who had exhausted their supply.
Monday, September 16. Whilst some of the party were engaged in the same
way as yesterday, others were employed in examining the surrounding
country. About a quarter of a mile behind our camp, and at an elevation
of twenty feet above it, a plain extends nearly three miles parallel to
the river, and about a mile back to the hills, towards which it
gradually ascends. Here we saw a grove of plum-trees loaded with fruit,
now ripe, and differing in nothing from those of the Atlantic states,
except that the tree is smaller and more thickly set. The ground of the
plain is occupied by the burrows of multitudes of barking squirrels, who
entice hither the wolves of a small kind, hawks, and polecats, all of
which animals we saw, and presumed that they fed on the squirrel. This
plain is intersected nearly in its whole extent by deep ravines and
steep irregular rising grounds from one to two hundred feet. On
ascending the range of hills which border the plain, we saw a second
high level plain stretching to the south as far as the eye could reach.
To the westward, a high range of hills about twenty miles distant runs
nearly north and south, but not to any great extent, as their rise and
termination is embraced by one view, and they seemed covered with a
verdure similar to that of the plains. The same view extended over the
irregular hills which border the northern side of the Missouri; all
around the country had been recently burnt, and a young green grass
about four inches high covered the ground, which was enlivened by herds
of antelopes and buffaloe; the last of which were in such multitudes,
that we cannot exaggerate in saying that at a single glance we saw three
thousand of them before us. Of all the animals we had seen the antelope
seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness: shy and timorous they
generally repose only on the ridges, which command a view of all the
approaches of an enemy: the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the
most distant danger, the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the
precautions of concealment, and when alarmed their rapid career seems
more like the flight of birds than the movements of an earthly being.
After many unsuccessful attempts, captain Lewis at last, by winding
around the ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on an
eminence, towards which the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only
male of the party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to
announce any danger to the females, who formed a group at the top.
Although they did not see captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, and
they fled when he was at the distance of two hundred yards: he
immediately ran to the spot where they had been, a ravine concealed them
from him, but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the
distance of three miles. He doubted whether it could be the same, but
their number and the extreme rapidity with which they continued their
course, convinced him that they must have gone with a speed equal to
that of the most distinguished racehorse. Among our acquisitions to-day
was a mule-deer, a magpie, the common deer, and buffaloe: captain Lewis
also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the
barking squirrels.
Tuesday, September 18. Having everything in readiness we proceeded,
with the boat much lightened, but the wind being from the N.W. we made
but little way. At one mile we reached an island in the middle of the
river, nearly a mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its
extremity a small creek comes in from the north; we then met some
sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped on the
south, having made only seven miles. In addition to the common deer,
which were in great abundance, we saw goats, elk, buffaloe, the black
tailed deer; the large wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair
with coarse fur, and are of a light colour. A small species of wolf
about the size of a gray fox was also killed, and proved to be the
animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a fox: there are also many
porcupines, rabbits, and barking squirrels in the neighbourhood.
September 19. We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning, and a wind from
the southeast. We reached at three miles a bluff on the south, and four
miles farther, the lower point of Prospect island, about two and a half
miles in length; opposite to this are high bluffs, about eighty feet
above the water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising as
they recede from the river: these are watered by three streams which
empty near each other; the first is about thirty-five yards wide, the
ground on its sides high and rich, with some timber; the second about
twelve yards wide, but with less timber; the third is nearly of the same
size, and contains more water, but it scatters its waters over the large
timbered plain, and empties itself into the river at three places. These
rivers are called by the French Les trois rivieres des Sioux, the three
Sioux rivers; and as the Sioux generally cross the Missouri at this
place, it is called the Sioux pass of the three rivers. These streams
have the same right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone
creek already mentioned.
Two miles from the island we passed a creek fifteen yards wide; eight
miles further, another twenty yards wide; three miles beyond which, is a
third of eighteen yards width, all on the south side: the second which
passes through a high plain we called Elm creek; to the third we gave
the name of Night creek, having reached it late at night. About a mile
beyond this is a small island on the north side of the river, and is
called Lower island, as it is situated at the commencement of what is
known by the name of the Grand Detour, or Great Bend of the Missouri.
Opposite is a creek on the south about ten yards wide, which waters a
plain where there are great numbers of the prickley pear, which name we
gave to the creek. We encamped on the south, opposite the upper
extremity of the island, having made an excellent day's sail of twenty
six and a quarter miles. Our game this day consisted chiefly of deer, of
these four were black tails, one a buck with two main prongs of horns on
each side and forked equally. Large herds of buffaloe, elk and goats,
were also seen.
Thursday, September 20. Finding we had reached the Big Bend, we
despatched two men with our only horse across the neck, to hunt there
and wait our arrival at the first creek beyond it. We then set out with
fair weather and the wind from S.E. to make the circuit of the bend.
Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the river shallow.
At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on the southern side. About
ten miles beyond it is a small island on the south, opposite to a small
creek on the north. This island, which is near the N.W. extremity of the
bend, is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further, we
encamped on a sandbar, having made twenty-seven and a half miles.
Captain Clarke, who early this morning had crossed the neck of the bend,
joined us in the evening. At the narrowest part, the gorge is composed
of high and irregular hills of about one hundred and eighty or one
hundred and ninety feet in elevation; from this descends an unbroken
plain over the whole of the bend, and the country is separated from it
by this ridge. Great numbers of buffaloe, elk, and goats are wandering
over these plains, accompanied by grouse and larks. Captain Clarke saw a
hare also, on the Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a
female differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns too
are smaller and straighter, having one short prong, and no black about
the neck: none of these goats have any beard, but are delicately formed,
and very beautiful.
Friday, September 21. Between one and two o'clock the serjeant on guard
alarmed us, by crying that the sandbar on which we lay was sinking; we
jumped up, and found that both above and below our camp the sand was
undermined and falling in very fast: we had scarcely got into the boats
and pushed off, when the bank under which they had been lying, fell in,
and would certainly have sunk the two periogues if they had remained
there. By the time we reached the opposite shore the ground of our
encampment sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the night;
and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of the Great Bend,
where we breakfasted. A man, whom we had despatched to step off the
distance across the bend, made it two thousand yards: the circuit is
thirty miles. During the whole course, the land of the bend is low, with
occasional bluffs; that on the opposite side, high prairie ground, and
long ridges of dark bluffs. After breakfast, we passed through a high
prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar lowland and cedar bluff on
the south, till we reached a willow island below the mouth of a small
creek. This creek, called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards
wide, comes in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from
the neck of the Great Bend. Here we found a deer, and the skin of a
white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead: large quantities of different
kinds of plover and brants are in this neighbourhood, and seen
collecting and moving towards the south; the catfish are small, and not
in such plenty as we had found them below this place. We passed several
sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a mile in width,
and encamped on the south, at the distance of eleven and a half miles.
On each side the shore is lined with hard rough gulleystones, rolled
from the hills and small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar,
though, in the prairies, there are great quantities of the prickly pear.
From this place we passed several sandbars, which make the river
shallow, and about a mile in width. At the distance of eleven and a half
miles, we encamped on the north at the lower point of an ancient island,
which has since been connected with the main land by the filling up of
the northern channel, and is now covered with cottonwood. We here saw
some tracks of Indians, but they appeared three or four weeks old. This
day was warm.
September 22. A thick fog detained us until seven o'clock; our course
was through inclined prairies on each side of the river, crowded with
buffaloe. We halted at a point on the north side, near a high bluff on
the south, and took a meridian altitude, which gave us the latitude of
44° 11' 33-3/10". On renewing our course, we reached first a small
island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles,
immediately above which is another island opposite to a creek fifteen
yards wide. This creek, and the two islands, one of which is half a mile
long, and the second three miles, are called the Three Sisters: a
beautiful plain extending on both sides of the river. This is followed
by an island on the north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a
half in length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its name
from the quality of the timber. On the south side of this island, is a
fort and a large trading house, built by a Mr. Loisel, who wintered here
during the last year, in order to trade with the Sioux, the remains of
whose camps are in great numbers about this place. The establishment is
sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted in
with the same materials. The hunters who had been sent ahead joined us
here. They mention that the hills are washed in gullies, in passing over
which, some mineral substances had rotted and destroyed their moccasins;
they had killed two deer and a beaver. At sixteen miles distance we came
to on the north side at the mouth of a small creek. The large stones
which we saw yesterday on the shores are now some distance in the river,
and render the navigation dangerous. The musquitoes are still numerous
in the low grounds.
Sunday, September 23. We passed, with a light breeze from the southeast,
a small island on the north, called Goat island; above which is a small
creek, called by the party Smoke creek, as we observed a great smoke to
the southwest on approaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower point
of a large island, having passed two small willow islands with sandbars
projecting from them. This island, which we called Elk island, is about
two and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide, situated
near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant, and
grapes. The river is here almost straight for a considerable distance,
wide and shallow, with many sandbars. A small creek on the north, about
sixteen yards wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Reuben Fields, one of
our men, was the first of the party who reached it. At a short distance
above this we encamped for the night, having made twenty miles. The
country, generally, consists of low, rich, timbered ground on the north,
and high barren lands on the south: on both sides great numbers of
buffaloe are feeding. In the evening three boys of the Sioux nation swam
across the river, and informed us that two parties of Sioux were
encamped on the next river, one consisting of eighty, and the second of
sixty lodges, at some distance above. After treating them kindly we sent
them back with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their chiefs, whom
we invited to a conference in the morning.
Monday, September 24. The wind was from the east, and the day fair; we
soon passed a handsome prairie on the north side, covered with ripe
plums, and the mouth of a creek on the south, called Highwater creek, a
little above our encampment. At about five miles we reached an island
two and a half miles in length, and situated near the south. Here we
were joined by one of our hunters, who procured four elk, but whilst he
was in pursuit of the game the Indians had stolen his horse. We left the
island, and soon overtook five Indians on the shore: we anchored and
told them from the boat we were friends and wished to continue so, but
were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their young men had stolen
the horse which their great father had sent for their great chief, and
that we could not treat with them until he was restored. They said that
they knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he should be
given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half miles, passed an island
on the north, which we called Good-humoured island; it is about one and
a half miles long, and abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we
anchored one hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side,
where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped; two thirds of
the party remained on board, and the rest went as a guard on shore with
the cooks and one periogue; we have seen along the sides of the hills on
the north a great deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a
hare; the five Indians whom we had seen followed us, and slept with the
guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we smoked with him, and
made him a present of tobacco. This river is about seventy yards wide,
and has a considerable current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit
it are called Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river.
CHAP. IV.
Council held with the Tetons--Their manners, dances, &c.--Chayenne
River--Council held with the Ricara Indians--Their manners and
habits--Strange instance of Ricara idolatry--Another
instance--Cannonball river--Arrival among the Mandans--Character of
the surrounding country, and of the creeks, islands, &c.
September 25. The morning was fine, and the wind continued from the
southeast. We raised a flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled
at twelve o'clock, with all the party parading under arms. The chiefs
and warriors from the camp two miles up the river, met us, about fifty
or sixty in number, and after smoking delivered them a speech; but as
our Sioux interpreter, Mr. Durion, had been left with the Yanktons, we
were obliged to make use of a Frenchman who could not speak fluently,
and therefore we curtailed our harangue. After this we went through the
ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a
medal, a flag of the United States, a laced uniform coat, a cocked hat
and feather: to the two other chiefs a medal and some small presents;
and to two warriors of consideration certificates. The name of the great
chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffaloe; the second Tortohonga, or the
Partisan; the third Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine: the name of one
of the warriors was Wawzinggo; that of the second Matocoquepa, or Second
Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the
airgun, and such curiosities as we thought might amuse them: In this we
succeeded too well; for after giving them a quarter of a glass of
whiskey, which they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it
was with much difficulty that we could get rid of them. They at last
accompanied captain Clarke on shore in a periogue with five men; but it
seems they had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner had the party
landed than three of the Indians seized the cable of the periogue, and
one of the soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast: the second
chief who affected intoxication, then said, that we should not go on,
that they had not received presents enough from us; captain Clarke told
him that he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not
squaws, but warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could
in a moment exterminate them: the chief replied, that he too had
warriors, and was proceeding to offer personal violence to captain
Clarke, who immediately drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to
prepare for action. The Indians who surrounded him, drew their arrows
from their quivers and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the
boat was instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of our most
determined men jumped into the periogue and joined captain Clarke. This
movement made an impression on them, for the grand chief ordered the
young men away from the periogue, and they withdrew and held a short
council with the warriors. Being unwilling to irritate them, captain
Clarke then went forward and offered his hand to the first and second
chiefs, who refused to take it. He then turned from them and got into
the periogue, but had not gone more than ten paces when both the chiefs
and two of the warriors waded in after him, and he brought them on
board. We then proceeded on for a mile and anchored off a willow island,
which from the circumstances which had just occurred, we called
Badhumoured island.
Wednesday, September 26. Our conduct yesterday seemed to have inspired
the Indians with fear of us, and as we were desirous of cultivating
their acquaintance, we complied with their wish that we should give them
an opportunity of treating us well, and also suffer their squaws and
children to see us and our boat, which would be perfectly new to them.
Accordingly, after passing at one and a half mile a small willow island
and several sandbars, we came to on the south side, where a crowd of
men, women and children were waiting to receive us. Captain Lewis went
on shore and remained several hours, and observing that their
disposition was friendly we resolved to remain during the night to a
dance, which they were preparing for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke, who
went on shore one after the other, were met on landing by ten well
dressed young men, who took them up in a robe highly decorated and
carried them to a large council house, where they were placed on a
dressed buffaloe skin by the side of the grand chief. The hall or
council-room was in the shape of three quarters of a circle, covered at
the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. Under this
shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the chief, before
whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given them yesterday.
This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, in which the pipe
of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from
the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered: a large
fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood near, and in the
centre about four hundred pounds of excellent buffaloe meat as a present
for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after
approving what we had done, begged us to take pity on their unfortunate
situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he
had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered an harangue to the same
effect: then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate
parts of the dog, which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the
flag by way of sacrifice: this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and
first pointed it towards the heavens, then to the four quarters of the
globe, and then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and
presented it to us. We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after
which the repast was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they
had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the Sioux and used
on all festivals; to this were added, pemitigon, a dish made of buffaloe
meat, dried or jerked, and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and a
kind of ground potatoe, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn
called hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries
which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, we took the
pemitigon and the potatoe, which we found good, but we could as yet
partake but sparingly of the dog. We eat and smoked for an hour, when it
became dark: every thing was then cleared away for the dance, a large
fire being made in the centre of the house, giving at once light and
warmth to the ballroom. The orchestra was composed of about ten men, who
played on a sort of tambourin, formed of skin stretched across a hoop;
and made a jingling noise with a long stick to which the hoofs of deer
and goats were hung; the third instrument was a small skin bag with
pebbles in it: these, with five or six young men for the vocal part,
made up the band. The women then came forward highly decorated; some
with poles in their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their
enemies; others with guns, spears or different trophies, taken in war by
their husbands, brothers, or connexions. Having arranged themselves in
two columns, one on each side of the fire, as soon as the music began
they danced towards each other till they met in the centre, when the
rattles were shaken, and they all shouted and returned back to their
places. They have no step, but shuffle along the ground; nor does the
music appear to be any thing more than a confusion of noises,
distinguished only by hard or gentle blows upon the buffaloe skin: the
song is perfectly extemporaneous. In the pauses of the dance, any man of
the company comes forward and recites, in a sort of low guttural tone,
some little story or incident, which is either martial or ludicrous; or,
as was the case this evening, voluptuous and indecent; this is taken up
by the orchestra and the dancers, who repeat it in a higher strain and
dance to it. Sometimes they alternate; the orchestra first performing,
and when it ceases, the women raise their voices and make a music more
agreeable, that is, less intolerable than that of the musicians. The
dances of the men, which are always separate from those of the women,
are conducted very nearly in the same way, except that the men jump up
and down instead of shuffling; and in the war dances the recitations are
all of a military cast. The harmony of the entertainment had nearly been
disturbed by one of the musicians, who thinking he had not received a
due share of the tobacco we had distributed during the evening, put
himself into a passion, broke one of the drums, threw two of them into
the fire, and left the band. They were taken out of the fire: a buffaloe
robe held in one hand and beaten with the other, by several of the
company, supplied the place of the lost drum or tambourin, and no notice
was taken of the offensive conduct of the man. We staid till twelve
o'clock at night, when we informed the chiefs that they must be fatigued
with all these attempts to amuse us, and retired accompanied by four
chiefs, two of whom spent the night with us on board.
While on shore we saw twenty-five squaws, and about the same number of
children, who had been taken prisoners two weeks ago, in a battle with
their countrymen the Mahas. In this engagement the Sioux destroyed forty
lodges, killed seventy-five men, of which we saw many of the scalps, and
took these prisoners; their appearance is wretched and dejected; the
women too seem low in stature, coarse and ugly; though their present
condition may diminish their beauty. We gave them a variety of small
articles, such as awls and needles, and interceded for them with the
chiefs, to whom we recommended to follow the advice of their great
father, to restore the prisoners and live in peace with the Mahas, which
they promised to do.
The tribe which we this day saw, are a part of the great Sioux nation,
and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two
hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the
Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton rivers. In their persons they
are rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being too small, their
cheekbones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same
character of form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and
sprightly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were
cunning and vicious.
The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top,
which they suffer to grow and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to this
they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the
death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear
a hawk's feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and
fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face and
body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over the
shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffaloe skin dressed white,
adorned with porcupine quills loosely fixed so as to make a gingling
noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures
unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits, or
any other incident; the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair
weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is
either thrown over the arm, or wrapped round the body, all of which it
may cover. Under this in the winter season they wear a kind of shirt
resembling ours, and made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms
and body. Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth or procured
dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width and closely tied to the body,
to this is attached a piece of cloth or blanket or skin about a foot
wide, which passes between the legs and is tucked under the girdle both
before and behind; from the hip to the ancle he is covered by leggings
of dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width,
and ornamented by little tufts of hair the produce of the scalps they
have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The winter moccasins
are of dressed buffaloe-skin, the hair being worn inwards, and soaled
with thick elk-skin parchment: those for summer are of deer or elk-skin,
dressed without the hair, and with soals of elk-skin. On great
occasions, or wherever they are in full dress, the young men drag after
them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin.
Another skin of the same animal is either tucked into the girdle or
carried in the hand, and serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what
the French traders call the bois roule: this is the inner bark of a
species of red willow, which being dried in the sun or over the fire, is
rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and is used alone
or mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made
of ash, about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with
feathers, hair and porcupine quills.
The hair of the women is suffered to grow long, and is parted from the
forehead across the head, at the back of which it is either collected
into a kind of bag, or hangs down over the shoulders. Their moccasins
are like those of the men, as are also the leggings, which do not
however reach beyond the knee, where it is met by a long loose shift of
skin which reaches nearly to the ancles: this is fastened over the
shoulders by a string and has no sleeves, but a few pieces of the skin
hang a short distance down the arm. Sometimes a girdle fastens this skin
round the waist, and over all is thrown a robe like that worn by the
men. They seem fond of dress. Their lodges are very neatly constructed,
in the same form as those of the Yanktons; they consist of about one
hundred cabins, made of white buffaloe hide dressed, with a larger one
in the centre for holding councils and dances. They are built round with
poles about fifteen or twenty feet high, covered with white skins; these
lodges may be taken to pieces, packed up, and carried with the nation
wherever they go, by dogs which bear great burdens. The women are
chiefly employed in dressing buffaloe skins: they seem perfectly well
disposed, but are addicted to stealing any thing which they can take
without being observed. This nation, although it makes so many ravages
among its neighbours, is badly supplied with guns. The water which they
carry with them is contained chiefly in the paunches of deer and other
animals, and they make use of wooden bowls. Some had their heads shaved,
which we found was a species of mourning for relations. Another usage,
on these occasions, is to run arrows through the flesh both above and
below the elbow.
While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which
appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came
forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took
the squaws, and without any ceremony whipped them severely; on inquiring
into the nature of such summary justice, we learnt that this man was an
officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep
the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to
two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in
power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor; they seem
to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on the
watch to keep tranquillity during the day, and guarding the camp in the
night. The short duration of their office is compensated by its
authority: his power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or
disturbance no resistance to him is suffered: his person is sacred, and
if in the execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of the second
class, he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. In general
they accompany the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty,
however dangerous, it is a point of honour rather to die than to refuse
obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief
ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat: he immediately
put his arms round the mast, and, as we understood, no force except the
command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like
the other men their bodies are blackened, but their distinguishing mark
is a collection of two or three raven skins fixed to the girdle behind
the back in such a way, that the tails stick out horizontally from the
body. On his head too is a raven skin split into two parts, and tied so
as to let the beak project from the forehead.
Thursday September 27. We rose early, and the two chiefs took off, as a
matter of course and according to their custom, the blanket on which
they had slept. To this we added a peck of corn as a present to each.
Captain Lewis and the chiefs went on shore to see a part of the nation
that was expected, but did not come. He returned at two o'clock, with
four of the chiefs and a warrior of distinction, called Wadrapa, (or on
his guard); they examined the boat and admired whatever was strange,
during half an hour, when they left it with great reluctance. Captain
Clarke accompanied them to the lodge of the grand chief, who invited
them to a dance, where, being joined by captain Lewis, they remained
till a late hour. The dance was very similar to that of yesterday. About
twelve we left them, taking the second chief and one principal warrior
on board: as we came near the boat the man who steered the periogue, by
mistake, brought her broadside against the boat's cable, and broke it.
We called up all hands to their oars; but our noise alarmed the two
Indians: they called out to their companions, and immediately the whole
camp crowded to the shore; but after half an hour they returned, leaving
about sixty men near us. The alarm given by the chiefs was said to be
that the Mahas had attacked us, and that they were desirous of assisting
us to repel it; but we suspected that they were afraid we meant to set
sail, and intended to prevent us from doing so; for in the night the
Maha prisoners had told one of our men, who understood the language,
that we were to be stopped. We therefore, without giving any indication
of our suspicion, prepared every thing for an attack, as the loss of our
anchor obliged to come to near a falling bank, very unfavourable for
defence. We were not mistaken in these opinions; for when in the
morning,
Friday, September 28, after dragging unsuccessfully for the anchor, we
wished to set sail, it was with great difficulty that we could make the
chiefs leave the boat. At length we got rid of all except the great
chief; when just as we were setting out, several of the chief's soldiers
sat on the rope which held the boat to the shore. Irritated at this we
got every thing ready to fire on them if they persisted, but the great
chief said that these were his soldiers and only wanted some tobacco. We
had already refused a flag and some tobacco to the second chief, who had
demanded it with great importunity; but willing to leave them without
going to extremities, we threw him a carrot of tobacco, saying to him,
"You have told us that you were a great man, and have influence; now
show your influence, by taking the rope from those men, and we will then
go without any further trouble." This appeal to his pride had the
desired effect; he went out of the boat, gave the soldiers the tobacco,
and pulling the rope out of their hands delivered it on board, and we
then set sail under a breeze from the S.E. After sailing about two miles
we observed the third chief beckoning to us: we took him on board, and
he informed us that the rope had been held by the order of the second
chief, who was a double-faced man. A little farther on we were joined by
the son of the chief, who came on board to see his father. On his return
we sent a speech to the nation, explaining what we had done, and
advising them to peace; but if they persisted in their attempts to stop
us, we were willing and able to defend ourselves. After making six
miles, during which we passed a willow island on the south and one
sandbar, we encamped on another in the middle of the river. The country
on the south-side was a low prairie, that on the north highland.
September 29. We set out early, but were again impeded by sandbars,
which made the river shallow; the weather was however fair; the land on
the north side low and covered with timber contrasted with the bluffs to
the south. At nine o'clock we saw the second chief and two women and
three men on shore, who wished us to take two women offered by the
second chief to make friends, which was refused; he then requested us to
take them to the other band of their nation, who were on the river not
far from us: this we declined; but in spite of our wishes they followed
us along shore. The chief asked us to give them some tobacco; this we
did, and gave more as a present for that part of the nation which we did
not see. At seven and a half miles we came to a small creek on the
southern side, where we saw great numbers of elk, and which we called
Notimber creek from its bare appearance. Above the mouth of this stream,
a Ricara band of Pawnees had a village five years ago: but there are no
remains of it except the mound which encircled the town. Here the second
chief went on shore. We then proceeded, and at the distance of eleven
miles encamped on the lower part of a willow island, in the middle of
the river, being obliged to substitute large stones in the place of the
anchor which we lost.
September 30. The wind was this morning very high from the southeast, so
that we were obliged to proceed under a double-reefed mainsail, through
the rain. The country presented a large low prairie covered with timber
on the north side; on the south, we first had high barren hills, but
after some miles it became of the same character as that on the opposite
side. We had not gone far when an Indian ran after us, and begged to be
carried on board as far as the Ricaras, which we refused: soon after, we
discovered on the hills at a distance, a great number of Indians, who
came towards the river and encamped ahead of us. We stopped at a
sandbar, at about eleven miles, and after breakfasting proceeded on a
short distance to their camp, which consisted of about four hundred
souls. We anchored one hundred yards from the shore, and discovering
that they were Tetons belonging to the band which we had just left: we
told them that we took them by the hand, and would make each chief a
present of tobacco; that we had been badly treated by some of their
band, and that having waited for them two days below, we could not stop
here, but referred them to Mr. Durion for our talk and an explanation of
our views: they then apologized for what had past, assured us that they
were friendly, and very desirous that we should land and eat with them:
this we refused, but sent the periogue on shore with the tobacco, which
was delivered to one of the soldiers of the chief, whom we had on board.
Several of them now ran along the shore after us, but the chief threw
them a twist of tobacco, and told them to go back and open their ears to
our counsels; on which they immediately returned to their lodges. We
then proceeded past a continuation of the low prairie on the north,
where we had large quantities of grapes, and on the south saw a small
creek and an island. Six miles above this, two Indians came to the bank,
looked at us about half an hour, and then went without speaking over the
hills to the southwest. After some time, the wind rose still higher, and
the boat struck a log, turned, and was very near taking in water. The
chief became so much terrified at the danger, that he hid himself in the
boat, and as soon as we landed got his gun and told us that he wanted to
return, that we would now see no more Tetons, and that we might proceed
unmolested: we repeated the advice we had already given, presented him
with a blanket, a knife, some tobacco, and after smoking with him he set
out. We then continued to a sandbar on the north side, where we
encamped, having come twenty and a half miles. In the course of the day
we saw a number of sandbars which impede the navigation. The only
animal which we observed was the white gull, then in great abundance.
October 1st, 1804. The weather was very cold and the wind high from the
southeast during the night, and continued so this morning. At three
miles distance, we had passed a large island in the middle of the river,
opposite to the lower end of which the Ricaras once had a village on the
south side of the river: there are, however, no remnants of it now,
except a circular wall three or four feet in height, which encompassed
the town. Two miles beyond this island is a river coming in from the
southwest, about four hundred yards wide; the current gentle, and
discharging not much water, and very little sand: it takes its rise in
the second range of the Cote Noire or Black mountains, and its general
course is nearly east; this river has been occasionally called Dog
river, under a mistaken opinion that its French name was Chien, but its
true appellation is Chayenne, and it derives this title from the
Chayenne Indians: their history is the short and melancholy relation of
the calamities of almost all the Indians. They were a numerous people
and lived on the Chayenne, a branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipeg.
The invasion of the Sioux drove them westward; in their progress they
halted on the southern side of the Missouri below the Warreconne, where
their ancient fortifications still exist; but the same impulse again
drove them to the heads of the Chayenne, where they now rove, and
occasionally visit the Ricaras. They are now reduced, but still number
three hundred men.
Although the river did not seem to throw out much sand, yet near and
above its mouth we find a great many sandbars difficult to pass. On both
sides of the Missouri, near the Chayenne, are rich thinly timbered
lowlands, behind which are bare hills. As we proceeded, we found that
the sandbars made the river so shallow, and the wind was so high, that
we could scarcely find the channel, and at one place were forced to drag
the boat over a sandbar, the Missouri being very wide and falling a
little. At seven and a half miles we came to at a point, and remained
three hours, during which time the wind abated: we then passed within
four miles two creeks on the south, one of which we called Centinel
creek, and the other Lookout creek. This part of the river has but
little timber; the hills are not so high as we have hitherto seen, and
the number of sandbars extends the river to more than a mile in breadth.
We continued about four and a half miles further, to a sandbar in the
middle of the river, where we spent the night, our progress being
sixteen miles. On the opposite shore, we saw a house among the willows
and a boy to whom we called, and brought him on board. He proved to be a
young Frenchman in the employ of a Mr. Valle a trader, who is now here
pursuing his commerce with the Sioux.
Tuesday, October 2. There had been a violent wind from S.E. during the
night, which having moderated we set sail with Mr. Valle, who visited us
this morning and accompanied us for two miles. He is one of three French
traders who have halted here, expecting the Sioux who are coming down
from the Ricaras, where they now are, for the purposes of traffic. Mr.
Valle tells us that he passed the last winter three hundred leagues up
the Chayenne under the Black mountains. That river he represents as very
rapid, liable to sudden swells, the bed and shores formed of course
gravel, and difficult of ascent even for canoes. One hundred leagues
from its mouth it divides into two branches, one coming from the south,
the other at forty leagues from the junction enters the Black mountains.
The land which it waters from the Missouri to the Black mountains,
resembles the country on the Missouri, except that the former has even
less timber, and of that the greater proportion is cedar. The Chayennes
reside chiefly on the heads of the river, and steal horses from the
Spanish settlement, a plundering excursion which they perform in a
month's time. The Black mountains he observes are very high, covered
with great quantities of pine, and in some parts the snow remains during
the summer. There are also great quantities of goats, white bear,
prairie cocks, and a species of animal which from his description must
resemble a small elk, with large circular horns.
At two and a half miles we had passed a willow island on the south, on
the north side of the river were dark bluffs, and on the south low rich
prairies. We took a meridian altitude on our arrival at the upper end of
the isthmus of the bend, which we called the Lookout bend, and found the
latitude to be 44° 19' 36". This bend is nearly twenty miles round, and
not more than two miles across.
In the afternoon we heard a shot fired, and not long after observed some
Indians on a hill: one of them came to the shore and wished us to land,
as there were twenty lodges of Yanktons or Boisbrule there; we declined
doing so, telling him that we had already seen his chiefs, and that they
might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk we had delivered to
them. At nine miles we came to the lower point of a long island on the
north, the banks of the south side of the river being high, those of the
north forming a low rich prairie. We coasted along this island, which we
called Caution island, and after passing a small creek on the south
encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river, having made twelve
miles. The wind changed to the northwest, and became very high and cold.
The current of the river is less rapid, and the water though of the same
colour contains less sediment than below the Chayenne, but its width
continues the same. We were not able to hunt to-day; for as there are so
many Indians in the neighbourhood, we were in constant expectation of
being attacked, and were therefore forced to keep the party together and
be on our guard.
Wednesday, October 3. The wind continued so high from the northwest,
that we could not set out till after seven: we then proceeded till
twelve o'clock, and landed on a bar towards the south, where we
examined the periogues, and the forecastle of the boat, and found that
the mice had cut several bags of corn, and spoiled some of our clothes:
about one o'clock an Indian came running to the shore with a turkey on
his back: several others soon joined him, but we had no intercourse with
them. We then went on for three miles, but the ascent soon became so
obstructed by sandbars and shoal water, that after attempting in vain
several channels, we determined to rest for the night under some high
bluffs on the south, and send out to examine the best channel. We had
made eight miles along high bluffs on each side. The birds we saw were
the white gulls and the brant which were flying to the southward in
large flocks.
Thursday, 4th. On examination we found that there was no outlet
practicable for us in this channel, and that we must retread our steps.
We therefore returned three miles, and attempted another channel in
which we were more fortunate. The Indians were in small numbers on the
shore, and seemed willing had they been more numerous to molest us. They
called to desire that we would land, and one of them gave three yells
and fired a ball ahead of the boat: we however took no notice of it, but
landed on the south to breakfast. One of these Indians swam across and
begged for some powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco only. At eight
and a half miles we had passed an island in the middle of the river,
which we called Goodhope island. At one and a half mile we reached a
creek on the south side about twelve yards wide, to which we gave the
name of Teal creek. A little above this is an island on the north side
of the current, about one and a half mile in length and three quarters
of a mile in breadth. In the centre of this island is an old village of
the Ricaras, called Lahoocat; it was surrounded by a circular wall,
containing seventeen lodges. The Ricaras are known to have lived therein
1797, and the village seems to have been deserted about five years
since; it does not contain much timber. We encamped on a sandbar making
out from the upper end of this island; our journey to-day being twelve
miles.
Friday, October 5. The weather was very cold: yesterday evening and this
morning there was a white frost. We sailed along the highlands on the
north side, passing a small creek on the south, between three and four
miles. At seven o'clock we heard some yells and saw three Indians of the
Teton band, who asked us to come on shore and begged for some tobacco,
to all which we gave the same answer as hitherto. At eight miles we
reached a small creek on the north. At fourteen we passed an island on
the south, covered with wild rye, and at the head a large creek comes in
from the south, which we named Whitebrant creek, from seeing several
white brants among flocks of dark-coloured ones. At the distance of
twenty miles we came to on a sandbar towards the north side of the
river, with a willow island opposite; the hills or bluffs come to the
banks of the river on both sides, but are not so high as they are below:
the river itself however continues of the same width, and the sandbars
are quite as numerous. The soil of the banks is dark coloured, and many
of the bluffs have the appearance of being on fire. Our game this day
was a deer, a prairie wolf, and some goats out of a flock that was
swimming across the river.
Saturday, October 6. The morning was still cold, the wind being from the
north. At eight miles we came to a willow island on the north, opposite
a point of timber, where there are many large stones near the middle of
the river, which seem to have been washed from the hills and high plains
on both sides, or driven from a distance down the stream. At twelve
miles we halted for dinner at a village which we suppose to have
belonged to the Ricaras; it is situated in a low plain on the river, and
consists of about eighty lodges, of an octagon form, neatly covered with
earth, placed as close to each other as possible, and picketed round.
The skin canoes, mats, buckets, and articles of furniture found in the
lodges, induce us to suppose that it had been left in the spring. We
found three different sorts of squashes growing in the village; we also
killed an elk near it, and saw two wolves. On leaving the village the
river became shallow, and after searching a long time for the main
channel, which was concealed among sandbars, we at last dragged the boat
over one of them rather than go back three miles for the deepest
channel. At fourteen and a half miles we stopped for the night on a
sandbar, opposite a creek on the north, called Otter creek, twenty-two
yards in width, and containing more water than is common for creeks of
that size. The sides of the river during the day are variegated with
high bluffs and low timbered grounds on the banks: the river is very
much obstructed by sandbars. We saw geese, swan, brants and ducks of
different kinds on the sandbars, and on shore numbers of the prairie
hen; the magpie too is very common, but the gulls and plover, which we
saw in such numbers below, are now quite rare.
Sunday, October 7. There was frost again last evening, and this morning
was cloudy and attended with rain. At two miles we came to the mouth of
a river; called by the Ricaras, Sawawkawna, or Pork river; the party who
examined it for about three miles up, say that its current is gentle,
and that it does not seem to throw out much sand. Its sources are in the
first range of the Black mountains, and though it has now only water of
twenty yards width, yet when full it occupies ninety. Just below the
mouth is another village or wintering camp of the Ricaras, composed of
about sixty lodges, built in the same form as those passed yesterday,
with willow and straw mats, baskets and buffaloe-skin canoes remaining
entire in the camp. We proceeded under a gentle breeze from the
southwest: at ten o'clock we saw two Indians on the north side, who told
us they were a part of the lodge of Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine,
the Teton chief whom we had seen on the twenty-fifth, that they were on
the way to the Ricaras, and begged us for something to eat, which we of
course gave them. At seven and a half miles is a willow island on the
north, and another on the same side five miles beyond it, in the middle
of the river between highlands on both sides. At eighteen and a half
miles is an island called Grouse island, on which are the walls of an
old village; the island has no timber, but is covered with grass and
wild rye, and owes its name to the number of grouse that frequent it. We
then went on till our journey for the day was twenty-two miles: the
country presented the same appearance as usual. In the low timbered
ground near the mouth of the Sawawkawna, we saw the tracks of large
white bear, and on Grouse island killed a female blaireau, and a deer of
the black-tailed species, the largest we have ever seen.
Monday, October 8. We proceeded early with a cool northwest wind, and at
two and a half miles above Grouse island, reached the mouth of a creek
on the south, then a small willow island, which divides the current
equally; and at four and a half miles came to a river on the southern
side where we halted. This river, which our meridian altitude fixes at
45° 39' 5" north latitude, is called by the Ricaras Wetawhoo; it rises
in the Black mountains, and its bed which flows at the mouth over a low
soft slate stone, is one hundred and twenty yards wide, but the water is
now confined within twenty yards, and is not very rapid, discharging mud
with a small proportion of sand: here as in every bend of the river, we
again observe the red berries resembling currants, which we mentioned
before. Two miles above the Wetawhoo, and on the same side, is a small
river called Maropa by the Indians; it is twenty yards in width, but so
dammed up by mud that the stream creeps through a channel of not more
than an inch in diameter, and discharges no sand. One mile further we
reached an island close to the southern shore, from which it is
separated by a deep channel of sixty yards. About half way a number of
Ricara Indians came out to see us. We stopped and took a Frenchman on
board, who accompanied us past the island to our camp on the north side
of the river, which is at the distance of twelve miles from that of
yesterday. Captain Lewis then returned with four of the party to see the
village; it is situated in the centre of the island, near the southern
shore, under the foot of some high, bald, uneven hills, and contains
about sixty lodges. The island itself is three miles long, and covered
with fields in which the Indians raise corn, beans, and potatoes.
Several Frenchmen living among these Indians as interpreters, or
traders, came back with captain Lewis, and particularly a Mr.
Gravelines, a man who has acquired the language. On setting out we had a
low prairie covered with timber on the north, and on the south
highlands, but at the mouth of the Wetawhoo the southern country
changes, and a low timbered plain extends along the south, while the
north has a ridge of barren hills during the rest of the day's course.
Tuesday, 9th. The wind was so cold and high last night and during all
the day, that we could not assemble the Indians in council; but some of
the party went to the village. We received the visits of the three
principal chiefs with many others, to whom we gave some tobacco, and
told them that we would speak to them to-morrow. The names of these
chiefs were first, Kakawissassa or Lighting Crow; second chief Pocasse
or Hay; third chief Piaheto or Eagle's Feather. Notwithstanding the high
waves, two or three squaws rowed to us in little canoes made of a single
buffaloe skin, stretched over a frame of boughs interwoven like a
basket, and with the most perfect composure. The object which appeared
to astonish the Indians most, was captain Clark's servant York, a
remarkable stout strong negro. They had never seen a being of that
colour, and therefore flocked round him to examine the extraordinary
monster. By way of amusement he told them that he had once been a wild
animal, and caught and tamed by his master, and to convince them, showed
them feats of strength which added to his looks made him more terrible
than we wished him to be. Opposite our camp is a small creek on the
south, which we distinguished by the name of the chief Kakawissassa.
Wednesday, 10th. The weather was this day fine, and as we were desirous
of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. Gravelines,
who with Mr. Tabeau another French trader had breakfeasted with us, to
invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to a conference. They all
assembled at one o'clock, and after the usual ceremonies we addressed
them in the same way in which we had already spoken to the Ottoes and
Sioux: we then made or acknowledged three chiefs, one for each of the
three villages; giving to each a flag, a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat
and feather, also some goods, paint and tobacco, which they divided
among themselves: after this the airgun was exhibited, very much to
their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the colour and
manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified at discovering
that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the
example of the traders who bring it to them so far from tempting having
in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to
the other Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey; but they
refused it with this sensible remark, that they were surprised that
their father should present to them a liquor which would make them
fools. On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau, that no man
could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies. The
council being over they retired to consult on their answer, and the next
morning,
Thursday, 11th, at eleven o'clock we again met in council at our camp.
The grand chief made a short speech of thanks for the advice we had
given, and promised to follow it; adding that the door was now open and
no one dare shut it, and that we might depart whenever we pleased,
alluding to the treatment we had received from the Sioux: they also
brought us some corn, beans, and dried squashes, and in return we gave
them a steel mill with which they were much pleased. At one o'clock we
left our camp with the grand chief and his nephew on board, and at about
two miles anchored below a creek on the south, separating the second and
third village of the Ricaras, which are about half a mile distant from
each other. We visited both the villages, and sat conversing with the
chiefs for some time, during which they presented us with a bread made
of corn and beans, also corn and beans boiled, and a large rich bean
which they take from the mice of the prairie, who discover and collect
it. These two villages are placed near each other in a high smooth
prairie; a fine situation, except that having no wood the inhabitants
are obliged to go for it across the river to a timbered lowland opposite
to them. We told them that we would speak to them in the morning at
their villages separately.
Thursday, 12th. Accordingly after breakfast we went on shore to the
house of the chief of the second village named Lassel, where we found
his chiefs and warriors. They made us a present of about seven bushels
of corn, a pair of leggings, a twist of their tobacco, and the seeds of
two different species of tobacco. The chief then delivered a speech
expressive of his gratitude for the presents and the good counsels which
we had given him; his intention of visiting his great father but for
fear of the Sioux; and requested us to take one of the Ricara chiefs up
to the Mandans and negociate a peace between the two nations. To this we
replied in a suitable way, and then repaired to the third village. Here
we were addressed by the chief in nearly the same terms as before, and
entertained with a present of ten bushels of corn, some beans, dried
pumpkins, and squashes. After we had answered and explained the
magnitude and power of the United States, the three chiefs came with us
to the boat. We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sunglass. Two
of them then left us, and the chief of the third, by name Ahketahnasha
or Chief of the Town, accompanied us to the Mandans. At two o'clock we
left the Indians, who crowded to the shore to take leave of us, and
after making seven and a half miles landed on the north side, and had a
clear, cool, pleasant evening.
The three villages which we have just left, are the residence of a
nation called the Ricaras. They were originally colonies of Pawnees, who
established themselves on the Missouri, below the Chayenne, where the
traders still remember that twenty years ago they occupied a number of
villages. From that situation a part of the Ricaras emigrated to the
neighbourhood of the Mandans, with whom they were then in alliance. The
rest of the nation continued near the Chayenne till the year 1797, in
the course of which, distressed by their wars with the Sioux, they
joined their countrymen near the Mandans. Soon after a new war arose
between the Ricaras and the Mandans, in consequence of which the former
came down the river to their present position. In this migration those
who had first gone to the Mandans kept together, and now live in the two
lower villages, which may thence be considered as the Ricaras proper.
The third village was composed of such remnants of the villages as had
survived the wars, and as these were nine in number a difference of
pronunciation and some difference of language may be observed between
them and the Ricaras proper, who do not understand all the words of
these wanderers. The villages are within the distance of four miles of
each other, the two lower ones consisting of between one hundred and
fifty and two hundred men each, the third of three hundred. The Ricaras
are tall and well proportioned, the women handsome and lively, and as
among other savages to them falls all the drudgery of the field and the
labours of procuring subsistence, except that of hunting: both sexes are
poor, but kind and generous, and although they receive with thankfulness
what is given to them, do not beg as the Sioux did, though this praise
should be qualified by mentioning that an axe was stolen last night
from our cooks. The dress of the men is a simple pair of moccasins,
legings, and a cloth round the middle, over which a buffaloe robe is
occasionally thrown, with their hair, arms and ears decorated with
different ornaments. The women wear moccasins, legings, a long shirt
made of goats' skins, generally white and fringed, which is tied round
the waist; to those they add, like the men, a buffaloe robe without the
hair, in summer. These women are handsomer than the Sioux; both of them
are however, disposed to be amorous, and our men found no difficulty in
procuring companions for the night by means of the interpreters. These
interviews were chiefly clandestine, and were of course to be kept a
secret from the husband or relations. The point of honour indeed, is
completely reversed among the Ricaras; that the wife or the sister
should submit to a stranger's embraces without the consent of her
husband or brother, is a cause of great disgrace and offence, especially
as for many purposes of civility or gratitude the husband and brother
will themselves present to a stranger these females, and be gratified by
attentions to them. The Sioux had offered us squaws, but while we
remained there having declined, they followed us with offers of females
for two days. The Ricaras had been equally accommodating; we had equally
withstood their temptation; but such was their desire to oblige that two
very handsome young squaws were sent on board this evening, and
persecuted us with civilities. The black man York participated largely
in these favours; for instead of inspiring any prejudice, his colour
seemed to procure him additional advantages from the Indians, who
desired to preserve among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger.
Among other instances of attention, a Ricara invited him into his house
and presenting his wife to him, retired to the outside of the door:
while there one of York's comrades who was looking for him came to the
door, but the gallant husband would permit no interruption before a
reasonable time had elapsed.
The Ricara lodges are in a circular or octagonal form, and generally
about thirty or forty feet in diameter: they are made by placing forked
posts about six feet high round the circumference of the circle; these
are joined by poles from one fork to another, which are supported also
by other forked poles slanting from the ground: in the centre of the
lodge are placed four higher forks, about fifteen feet in length,
connected together by beams; from these to the lower poles the rafters
of the roof are extended so as to leave a vacancy in the middle for the
smoke: the frame of the building is then covered with willow branches,
with which is interwoven grass, and over this mud or clay: the aperture
for the door is about four feet wide, and before it is a sort of entry
about ten feet from the lodge. They are very warm and compact.
They cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, watermelons,
squashes, and a species of tobacco peculiar to themselves.
Their commerce is chiefly with the traders who supply them with goods in
return for peltries, which they procure not only by their own hunting,
but in exchange for corn from their less civilized neighbours. The
object chiefly in demand seemed to be red paint, but they would give any
thing they had to spare for the most trifling article. One of the men
to-day gave an Indian a hook made out of a pin, and he gave him in
return a pair of moccasins.
They express a disposition to keep at peace with all nations, but they
are well armed with fusils, and being much under the influence of the
Sioux, who exchanged the goods which they get from the British for
Ricara corn, their minds are sometimes poisoned and they cannot be
always depended on. At the present moment they are at war with the
Mandans. We are informed by Mr. Gravelines, who had passed through that
country, that the Yankton or Jacques river rises about forty miles to
the east or northeast of this place, the Chayenne branch of the Red
river about twenty miles further, passing the Sioux, and the St. Peter's
about eighty.
Saturday, 13th. In the morning our visitors left us, except the brother
of the chief who accompanies us and one of the squaws. We passed at an
early hour a camp of Sioux on the north bank, who merely looked at us
without saying a word, and from the character of the tribe we did not
solicit a conversation. At ten and a half miles we reached the mouth of
a creek on the north, which takes its rise from some ponds a short
distance to the northeast: to this stream we gave the name of Stoneidol
creek, for after passing a willow and sand island just above its mouth,
we discovered that a few miles back from the Missouri there are two
stones resembling human figures, and a third like a dog; all which are
objects of great veneration among the Ricaras. Their history would adorn
the metamorphoses of Ovid. A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl
whose parents refused their consent to the marriage. The youth went out
into the fields to mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the
lady to the same spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow
his master. After wandering together and having nothing but grapes to
subsist on, they were at last converted into stone, which beginning at
the feet gradually invaded the nobler parts leaving nothing unchanged
but a bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hands to this day.
Whenever the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some
offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account given
by the Ricara chief which we had no mode of examining, except that we
found one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river
near where the event is said to have occurred, we found a greater
abundance of fine grapes than we had yet seen. Above this is a small
creek four and a half miles from Stoneidol creek, which is fifteen yards
wide, comes in from the south, and received from us the name of Pocasse
or Hay creek, in honour of the chief of the second village. Above the
Ricara island, the Missouri becomes narrow and deeper, the sandbars
being generally confined to the points; the current too is much more
gentle; the timber on the lowlands is also in much greater quantities,
though the high grounds are still naked. We proceeded on under a fine
breeze from the southeast, and after making eighteen miles encamped on
the north near a timbered low plain, after which we had some rain and
the evening was cold. The hunters killed one deer only.
Sunday, 14th. We set out in the rain which continued during the day. At
five miles we came to a creek on the south, about fifteen yards wide,
and named by us Piaheto or Eagle's Feather, in honour of the third chief
of the Ricaras. After dinner we stopped on a sandbar, and executed the
sentence of a court martial which inflicted corporal punishment on one
of the soldiers. This operation affected the Indian chief very sensibly,
for he cried aloud during the punishment: we explained the offence and
the reasons of it. He acknowledged that examples were necessary, and
that he himself had given them by punishing with death; but his nation
never whipped even children from their birth. After this we continued
with the wind from the northeast, and at the distance of twelve miles,
encamped in a cove of the southern bank. Immediately opposite our camp
on the north side are the ruins of an ancient fortification, the greater
part of which is washed into the river: nor could we distinguish more
than that the walls were eight or ten feet high. The evening is wet and
disagreeable, and the river which is somewhat wider than yesterday,
continues to have an unusual quantity of timber. The country was level
on both sides in the morning, but afterwards we passed some black bluffs
on the south.
Monday, 15th. We stopped at three miles on the north a little above a
camp of Ricaras who are hunting, where we were visited by about thirty
Indians. They came over in their skin canoes, bringing us meat, for
which we returned them beads and fishhooks. About a mile higher we found
another encampment of Ricaras on the south, consisting of eight lodges:
here we again ate and exchanged a few presents. As we went we discerned
numbers of other Indians on both sides of the river; and at about nine
miles we came to a creek on the south, where we saw many high hills
resembling a house with a slanting roof; and a little below the creek an
old village of the Sharha or Chayenne Indians. The morning had been
cloudy, but the evening became pleasant, the wind from the northeast,
and at sunset we halted, after coming ten miles over several sandbars
and points, above a camp of ten Ricara lodges on the north side. We
visited their camp, and smoked and eat with several of them; they all
appeared kind and pleased with our attentions, and the fair sex received
our men with more than hospitality. York was here again an object of
astonishment; the children would follow him constantly, and if he
chanced to turn towards them, run with great terror. The country of
to-day is generally low and covered with timber on both sides, though in
the morning we passed some barren hills on the south.
Tuesday, 16th. At this camp the squaw who accompanied the chief left us;
two others were very anxious to go on with us. Just above our camp we
passed a circular work or fort where the Sharha or Chayennes formerly
lived: and a short distance beyond, a creek which we called Chayenne
creek. At two miles is a willow island with a large sandbar on both
sides above it, and a creek, both on the south, which we called Sohaweh,
the Ricara name for girl; and two miles above a second creek, to which
we gave the name of Chapawt, which means woman in the same language.
Three miles further is an island situated in a bend to the north, about
a mile and a half long, and covered with cottonwood. At the lower end of
this island comes in a small creek from the north, called
Keetooshsahawna or Place of Beaver. At the upper extremity of the island
a river empties itself from the north: it is called Warreconne, or Elk
Shed their Horns, and is about thirty-five yards wide: the island itself
is named Carp island by Evans, a former traveller. As we proceeded there
were great numbers of goats on the banks of the river, and we soon after
saw large flocks of them in the water: they had been gradually driven
into the river by the Indians who now lined the shore so as to prevent
their escape, and were firing on them, while sometimes boys went into
the river and killed them with sticks: they seemed to be very
successful, for we counted fifty-eight which they had killed. We
ourselves killed some, and then passing the lodges to which these
Indians belonged, encamped at the distance of half a mile on the south,
having made fourteen and a half miles. We were soon visited by numbers
of these Ricaras, who crossed the river hallooing and singing: two of
them then returned for some goats' flesh and buffaloe meat dried and
fresh, with which they made a feast that lasted till late at night, and
caused much music and merriment.
Wednesday 17th. The weather was pleasant: we passed a low ground covered
with small timber on the south, and barren hills on the north which come
close to the river; the wind from the northwest then become so strong
that we could not move after ten o'clock, until late in the afternoon,
when we were forced to use the towline, and we therefore made only six
miles. We all went out hunting and examining the country. The goats, of
which we see large flocks coming to the north bank of the river, spend
the summer, says Mr. Gravelines, in the plains east of the Missouri, and
at the present season are returning to the Black mountains, where they
subsist on leaves and shrubbery during the winter, and resume their
migrations in the spring. We also saw buffaloe, elk, and deer, and a
number of snakes; a beaver house too was seen, and we caught a
whippoorwill of a small and uncommon kind: the leaves are fast falling;
the river wider than usual and full of sandbars: and on the sides of the
hills are large stones, and some rock of a brownish colour in the
southern bend below us. Our latitude by observation was 46° 23' 57".
Thursday 18. After three miles we reached the mouth of Le Boulet or
Cannonball river: this stream rises in the Black mountains, and falls
into the Missouri on the south; its channel is about one hundred and
forty yards wide, though the water is now confined within forty, and its
name is derived from the numbers of perfectly round large stones on the
shore and in the bluffs just above. We here met with two Frenchmen in
the employ of Mr. Gravelines, who had been robbed by the Mandans of
their traps, furs, and other articles, and were descending the river in
a periogue, but they turned back with us in expectation of obtaining
redress through our means. At eight miles is a creek on the north, about
twenty-eight yards wide, rising in the northeast, and called Chewah or
Fish river; one mile above this is another creek on the south: we
encamped on a sandbar to the south, at the distance of thirteen miles,
all of which we had made with oars and poles. Great numbers of goats are
crossing the river and directing their course to the westward; we also
saw a herd of buffaloe and of elk; a pelican too was killed, and six
fallow deer, having found, as the Ricaras informed us, that there are
none of the black-tail species as high up as this place. The country is
in general level and fine, with broken short high grounds, low timbered
mounds on the river, and a rugged range of hills at a distance.
Friday 19. We set sail with a fine morning, and a southeast wind, and at
two and a half miles passed a creek on the north side: at eleven and a
half miles we came to a lake or large pond on the same side, in which
were some swans. On both banks of the Missouri are low grounds which
have much more timber than lower down the river: the hills are at one or
two miles distance from the banks, and the streams which rise in them
are brackish, and the mineral salts appear on the sides of the hills
and edges of the runs. In walking along the shore we counted fifty-two
herds of buffaloe, and three of elk, at a single view. Besides these we
also observed elk, deer, pelicans, and wolves. After seventeen and a
half miles we encamped on the north, opposite to the uppermost of a
number of round hills, forming a cone at the top, one being about
ninety, another sixty feet in height, and some of less elevation. Our
chief tells us that the calumet bird lives in the holes formed by the
filtration of the water from the top of these hills through the sides.
Near to one of these moles, on a point of a hill ninety feet above the
plain, are the remains of an old village which is high, strong, and has
been fortified; this our chief tells us is the remains of one of the
Mandan villages, and are the first ruins which we have seen of that
nation in ascending the Missouri: opposite to our camp is a deep bend to
the south, at the extremity of which is a pond.
Saturday 30. We proceeded early with a southeast wind, which continued
high all day, and came to a creek on the north at two miles distance,
twenty yards wide. At eight miles we reached the lower point of an
island in the middle of the river, though there is no current on the
south. This island is covered with willows and extends about two miles,
there being a small creek coming in from the south at its lower
extremity. After making twelve miles we encamped on the south, at the
upper part of a bluff containing stone-coal of an inferior quality;
immediately below this bluff and on the declivity of a hill, are the
remains of a village covering six or eight acres, formerly occupied by
the Mandans, who, says our Ricara chief, once lived in a number of
villages on each side of the river, till the Sioux forced them forty
miles higher; whence after a few years residence, they moved to their
present position. The country through, which we passed has wider bottoms
and more timber than those we have been accustomed to see, the hills
rising at a distance and by gradual ascents. We have seen great numbers
of elk, deer, goats, and buffaloe, and the usual attendants of these
last, the wolves, who follow their movements and feed upon those who die
by accident, or who are too poor to keep pace with the herd; we also
wounded a white bear, and saw some fresh tracks of those animals which
are twice as large as the track of a man.
Sunday 21. Last night the weather was cold, the wind high from the
northeast, and the rain which fell froze on the ground. At daylight it
began to snow, and continued till the afternoon, when it remained cloudy
and the ground was covered with snow. We however, set out early, and
just above our camp came to a creek on the south, called Chisshetaw,
about thirty yards wide and with a considerable quantity of water. Our
Ricara chief tells us, that at some distance up this river is situated a
large rock which is held in great veneration, and visited by parties who
go to consult it as to their own or their nations' destinies, all of
which they discern in some sort of figures or paintings with which it is
covered. About two miles off from the mouth of the river the party on
shore saw another of the objects of Ricara superstition: it is a large
oak tree, standing alone in the open prairie, and as it alone has
withstood the fire which has consumed every thing around, the Indians
naturally ascribe to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies is
to make a hole in the skin of their necks through which a string is
passed and the other end tied to the body of the tree; and after
remaining in this way for some time they think they become braver. At
two miles a from our encampment we came to the ruins of a second Mandan
village, which was in existence at the same time with that just
mentioned. It is situated on the north at the foot of a hill in a
beautiful and extensive plain, which is now covered with herds of
buffaloe: nearly opposite are remains of a third village on the south of
the Missouri; and there is another also about two miles further on the
north, a little off the river. At the distance of seven miles we
encamped on the south, and spent a cold night. We procured to-day a
buffaloe and an otter only. The river is wide and the sandbars numerous,
and a low island near our encampment.
Monday 22. In the morning we passed an old Mandan village on the south,
near our camp; at four miles another on the same side. About seven
o'clock we came to at a camp of eleven Sioux of the Teton tribe, who are
almost perfectly naked, having only a piece of skin or cloth round the
middle, though we are suffering from the cold. From their appearance,
which is warlike, and from their giving two different accounts of
themselves, we believe that they are either going to or returning from
the Mandans, to which nations the Sioux frequently make excursions to
steal horses. As their conduct displeased as, we gave them nothing. At
six we reached an island about one mile in length, at the head of which
is a Mandan village on the north in ruins, and two miles beyond a bad
sandbar. At eight miles are remains of another Mandan village on the
south; and at twelve miles encamped on the south. The hunters brought in
a buffaloe bull, and mentioned that of about three hundred which they
had seen, there was not a single female. The beaver is here in plenty,
and the two Frenchmen who are returning with us catch several every
night.
These villages which are nine in number are scattered along each side of
the river within a space of twenty miles; almost all that remains of
them is the wall which surrounded them, the fallen heaps of earth which
covered the houses, and occasionally human skulls and the teeth and
bones of men, and different animals, which are scattered on the surface
of the ground.
Tuesday 23. The weather was cloudy and we had some snow; we soon arrived
at five lodges where the two Frenchmen had been robbed, but the Indians
had left it lately as we found the fires still burning. The country
consists as usual of timbered low grounds, with grapes, rushes, and
great quantities of a small red acid fruit, known among the Indians by
a name signifying rabbitberries, and called by the French graisse de
buffle or buffaloe fat. The river too, is obstructed by many sandbars.
At twelve miles we passed an old village on the north, which was the
former residence of the Ahnahaways who now live between the Mandans and
Minnetarees. After making thirteen miles we encamped on the south.
Wednesday 24. The day was again dark and it snowed a little in the
morning. At three miles we came to a point on the south, where the river
by forcing a channel across a former bend has formed a large island on
the north. On this island we found one of the grand chiefs of the
Mandans, who with five lodges was on a hunting excursion. He met his
enemy the Ricara chief, with great ceremony and apparent cordiality, and
smoked with him. After visiting his lodges, the grand chief and his
brother came on board our boat for a short time; we then proceeded and
encamped on the north, at seven miles from our last night's station and
below the old village of the Mandans and Ricaras. Here four Mandans came
down from a camp above, and our Ricara chief returned with them to their
camp, from which we auger favourably of their pacific views towards each
other. The land is low and beautiful, and covered with oak and
cottonwood, but has been too recently hunted to afford much game.
25th. The morning was cold and the wind gentle from the southeast: at
three miles we passed a handsome high prairie on the south, and on an
eminence about forty feet above the water and extending back for several
miles in a beautiful plain, was situated an old village of the Mandan
nation which has been deserted for many years. A short distance above
it, on the continuation of the same rising ground are two old villages
of Ricaras, one on the top of the hill, the other in the level plain,
which have been deserted only five years ago. Above these villages is an
extensive low ground for several miles, in which are situated, at three
or four miles from the Ricara villages, three old villages of Mandans
near together. Here the Mandans lived when the Ricaras came to them for
protection, and from this they moved to their present situation above.
In the low ground the squaws raised their corn, and the timber, of which
there was little near the villages, was supplied from the opposite side
of the river, where it was and still is abundant.
As we proceeded several parties of Mandans both on foot and horseback
came along the river to view us, and were very desirous that we should
land and talk to them: this we could not do on account of the sandbreaks
on the shore, but we sent our Ricara chief to them in a periogue. The
wind too having shifted to the southwest and being very high it required
all our precautions on board, for the river was full of sandbars which
made it very difficult to find the channel. We got aground several
times, and passed a very bad point of rocks, after which we encamped on
a sandpoint to the north, above a handsome plain covered with timber,
and opposite to a high hill on the south side at the distance of eleven
miles. Here we were joined by our Ricara chief, who brought an Indian to
the camp where he remained all night.
26th. We set out early with a southwest wind, and after putting the
Ricara chief on shore to join the Mandans who were in great numbers
along it, we proceeded to the camp of the grand chiefs four miles
distant. Here we met a Mr. M'Cracken one of the northwest or Hudson Bay
company, who arrived with another person about nine days ago to trade
for horses and buffaloe robes. Two of the chiefs came on board with some
of their household furniture, such as earthern pots and a little corn
and went on with us; the rest of the Indians following on shore. At one
mile beyond the camp we passed a small creek, and at three more a bluff
of coal of an inferior quality on the south. After making eleven miles
we reached an old field where the Mandans had cultivated grain last
summer, and encamped for the night on the south side, about half a mile
below the first village of the Mandans. In the morning we had a willow
low ground on the south and highland on the north, which occasionally
varied in the course of the day. There is but little wood on this part
of the river, which is here subdivided into many channels and obstructed
by sandbars. As soon as we arrived a crowd of men, women, and children
came down to see us. Captain Lewis returned with the principal chiefs to
the village, while the others remained with us during the evening; the
object which seemed to surprise them most, was a cornmill fixed to the
boat which we had occasion to use, and delighted them by the ease with
which it reduced the grain to powder. Among others who visited us was
the son of the grand chief of the Mandans, who had his two little
fingers cut off at the second joints. On inquiring into this accident,
we found that it was customary to express grief for the death of
relations by some corporeal suffering, and that the usual mode was to
lose two joints of the little fingers, or sometimes the other fingers.
The wind blew very cold in the evening from the southwest. Two of the
party are affected with rheumatic complaints.
CHAPTER V.
Council held with the Mandans--A prairie on fire, and a singular
instance of preservation--Peace established between the Mandans and
Ricaras--The party encamp for the winter--Indian mode of catching
goats--Beautiful appearance of northern lights--Friendly character
of the Indians--Some account of the Mandans--The Ahnahaways and the
Minnetarees--The party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by
taking part in their controversy with the Sioux--Religion of the
Mandans, and their singular conception of the term medicine--Their
tradition--The sufferings of the party from the severity of the
season--Indian game of billiards described--Character of the
Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks,
islands, &c.
Saturday, October 27. At an early hour we proceeded and anchored off the
village. Captain Clarke went on shore, and after smoking a pipe with the
chiefs, was desired to remain and eat with them. He declined on account
of his being unwell; but his refusal gave great offence to the Indians,
who considered it disrespectful not to eat when invited, till the cause
was explained to their satisfaction. We sent them some tobacco, and then
proceeded to the second village on the north, passing by a bank
containing coal, and a second village, and encamped at four miles on the
north, opposite to a village of Ahnahaways. We here met with a
Frenchman, named Jesseaume, who lives among the Indians with his wife
and children, and who we take as an interpreter. The Indians had flocked
to the bank to see us as we passed, and they visited in great numbers
the camp, where some of them remained all night. We sent in the evening
three young Indians with a present of tobacco for the chiefs of the
three upper villages, inviting them to come down in the morning to a
council with us. Accordingly the next day,
Sunday, October 28, we were joined by many of the Minnetarees and
Ahnahaways from above, but the wind was so violent from the southwest
that the chiefs of the lower villages could not come up, and the
council was deferred till to-morrow. In the mean while we entertained
our visitors by showing them what was new to them in the boat; all
which, as well our black servant, they called Great Medicine, the
meaning of which we afterwards learnt. We also consulted the grand chief
of the Mandans, Black Cat, and Mr. Jesseaume, as to the names,
characters, &c. of the chiefs with whom we are to hold the council. In
the course of the day we received several presents from the women,
consisting of corn, boiled hominy, and garden stuffs: in our turn we
gratified the wife of the great chief with a gift of a glazed earthen
jar. Our hunter brought us two beaver. In the afternoon we sent the
Minnetaree chiefs to smoke for us with the great chief of the Mandans,
and told them we would speak in the morning.
Finding that we shall be obliged to pass the winter at this place, we
went up the river about one and a half miles to-day, with a view of
finding a convenient spot for a fort, but the timber was too scarce and
small for our purposes.
Monday, October 29. The morning was fine and we prepared our presents
and speech for the council. After breakfast we were visited by an old
chief of the Ahnahaways, who finding himself growing old and weak had
transferred his power to his son, who is now at war against the
Shoshonees. At ten o'clock the chiefs were all assembled under an awning
of our sails, stretched so as to exclude the wind which had become high;
that the impression might be the more forcible, the men were all
paraded, and the council opened by a discharge from the swivel of the
boat. We then delivered a speech, which like those we had already made
intermingled advice with assurances of friendship and trade: while we
were speaking the old Ahnahaway chief grew very restless, and observed
that he could not wait long as his camp was exposed to the hostilities
of the Shoshonees; he was instantly rebuked with great dignity by one of
the chiefs for this violation of decorum at such a moment, and remained
quiet during the rest of the council. Towards the end of our speech we
introduced the subject of our Ricara chief, with whom we recommended a
firm peace: to this they seemed well disposed, and all smoked with him
very amicably. We all mentioned the goods which had been taken from the
Frenchmen, and expressed a wish that they should he restored. This being
over, we proceeded to distribute the presents with great ceremony: one
chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with
the likeness of the president of the United States, a uniform coat, hat
and feather: to the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some
domestic animals, and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs medals
with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other
presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more
satisfaction than an iron corn mill which we gave to the Mandans.
The chiefs who were made to-day are: Shahaka or Big White, a first
chief, and Kagohami or Little Raven, a second chief of the lower village
of the Mandans, called Matootonha: the other chiefs of an inferior
quality who were recommended were, 1. Ohheenaw, or Big Man, a Chayenne
taken prisoner by the Mandans who adopted him, and he now enjoys great
consideration among the tribe. 2. Shotahawrora, or Coal, of the second
Mandan village which is called Rooptahee. We made Poscopsahe, or Black
Cat, the first chief of the village, and the grand chief of the whole
Mandan nation: his second chief is Kagonomokshe, or Raven man Chief;
inferior chiefs of this village were, Tawnuheo, and Bellahsara, of which
we did not learn the translation.
In the third village which is called Mahawha, and where the Arwacahwas
reside, we made one first chief, Tetuckopinreha, or White Buffaloe robe
unfolded, and recognized two of an inferior order: Minnissurraree, or
Neighing Horse, and Locongotiha, or Old woman at a distance.
Of the fourth village where the Minnetarees live, and which is called
Metaharta, we made a first chief, Ompsehara, or Black Moccasin: a second
chief, Ohhaw, or Little Fox. Other distinguished chiefs of this village
were, Mahnotah, or Big Thief, a man whom we did not see as he is out
fighting, and was killed soon after; and Mahserassa, or Tail of the
Calumet Bird. In the fifth village we made a first chief Eapanopa, or
Red Shield; a second chief Wankerassa, or Two Tailed Calumet Bird, both
young chiefs; other persons of distinction are, Shahakohopinnee, or
Little Wolf's Medicine; Ahrattanamoekshe, or Wolfman chief, who is now
at war, and is the son of the old chief we have mentioned, whose name is
Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush.
The presents intended for the grand chief of the Minnetarees, who was
not at the council, were sent to him by the old chief Caltahcota; and we
delivered to a young chief those intended for the chief of the lower
village. The council was concluded by a shot from our swivel, and after
firing the airgun for their amusement, they retired to deliberate on the
answer which they are to give to-morrow.
In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and
burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames: so
rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burnt to death before
they could reach a place of safety; another man with his wife and child
were much burnt, and several other persons narrowly escaped destruction.
Among the rest a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst
of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who
had preserved him on account of his being white. But a much more natural
cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeing no hopes of
carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and covering him with the
fresh hide of a buffaloe, escaped herself from the flames; as soon as
the fire had passed, she returned and found him untouched, the skin
having prevented, the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.
Tuesday 30. We were this morning visited by two persons from the lower
village, one the Big White the chief of the village, the other the
Chayenne called the Big Man; they had been hunting, and did not return
yesterday early enough to attend the council. At their request we
repeated part of our speech of yesterday, and put the medal round the
neck of the chief. Captain Clarke took a periogue and went up the river
in search of a good wintering place, and returned after going seven
miles to the lower point of an island on the north side, about one mile
in length; he found the banks on the north side high, with coal
occasionally, and the country fine on all sides; but the want of wood
and the scarcity of game up the river, induced us to decide on fixing
ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening our men danced
among themselves to the great amusement of the Indians.
Wednesday 31. A second chief arrived this morning with an invitation
from the grand chief of the Mandans, to come to his village where he
wished to present some corn to us and to speak with us. Captain Clarke
walked down to his village; he was first seated with great ceremony on a
robe by the side of the chief, who then threw over his shoulders another
robe handsomely ornamented. The pipe was then smoked with several of the
old men who were seated around the chief; after some time he began his
discourse, by observing that he believed what we had told him, and that
they should soon enjoy peace, which would gratify him as well as his
people, because they could then hunt without fear of being attacked, and
the women might work in the fields without looking every moment for the
enemy, and at night put off their moccasins, a phrase by which is
conveyed the idea of security when the women could undress at night
without fear of attack. As to the Ricaras, he continued, in order to
show you that we wish peace with all men, that chief, pointing to his
second chief, will go with some warriors back to the Ricaras with their
chief now here and smoke with that nation. When we heard of your coming
all the nations around returned from their hunting to see you, in hopes
of receiving large presents; all are disappointed and some discontented;
for his part he was not much so, though his village was. He added that
he would go and see his great father the president. Two of the steel
traps stolen from the Frenchmen were then laid before captain Clarke,
and the women brought about twelve bushels of corn. After the chief had
finished, captain Clarke made an answer to the speech and then returned
to the boat, where he found the chief of the third village and Kagohami
(the Little Raven) who smoked and talked about an hour. After they left
the boat the grand chief of the Mandans came dressed in the clothes we
had given him, with his two children, and begged to see the men dance,
in which they willingly gratified him.
Thursday, November 1st. Mr. M'Cracken, the trader whom we found here,
set out to-day on his return to the British fort and factory on the
Assiniboin river, about one hundred and fifty miles from this place. He
took a letter from captain Lewis to the northwest company, inclosing a
copy of the passport granted by the British minister in the United
States. At ten o'clock the chiefs of the lower village arrived; they
requested that we would call at their village for some corn, that they
were willing to make peace with the Ricaras, that they had never
provoked the war between them, but as the Ricaras had killed some of
their chiefs, they had retaliated on them; that they had killed them
like birds, till they were tired of killing them, so that they would
send a chief and some warriors to smoke with them. In the evening we
dropped down to the lower village where captain Lewis went on shore, and
captain Clarke proceeded to a point of wood on the north side.
Friday, November 2. He therefore went up to the village where eleven
bushels of corn were presented to him. In the meantime Captain Clarke
went down with the boats three miles, and having found a good position
where there was plenty of timber, encamped and began to fell trees to
build our huts. Our Ricara chief set out with one Mandan chief and
several Minnetaree and Mandan warriors; the wind was from the southeast,
and the weather being fine a crowd of Indians came down to visit us.
Saturday 3. We now began the building of our cabins, and the Frenchmen
who are to return to St. Louis are building a periogue for the purpose.
We sent six men in a periogue to hunt down the river. We were also
fortunate enough to engage in our service a Canadian Frenchmen, who had
been with the Chayenne Indians on the Black mountains, and last summer
descended thence by the Little Missouri. Mr. Jessaume our interpreter
also came down with his squaw and children to live at our camp. In the
evening we received a visit from Kagohami or Little Raven, whose wife
accompanied him, bringing about sixty weight of dried meat, a robe and a
pot of meal. We gave him in return a piece of tobacco, to his wife an
axe and a few small articles, and both of them spent the night at our
camp. Two beavers were caught in traps this morning.
Sunday 4. We continued our labours: the timber which we employ is large
and heavy, and chiefly consists of cottonwood and elm with some ash of
an inferior size. Great numbers of the Indians pass our camp on their
hunting excursions: the day was clear and pleasant, but last night was
very cold and there was a white frost.
Monday 5. The Indians are all out on their hunting parties: a camp of
Mandans caught within two days one hundred goats a short distance below
us: their mode of hunting them is to form a large strong pen or fold,
from which a fence made of bushes gradually widens on each side: the
animals are surrounded by the hunters and gently driven towards this
pen, in which they imperceptibly find themselves inclosed and are then
at the mercy of the hunters. The weather is cloudy and the wind moderate
from the northwest. Late at night we were awaked by the sergeant on
guard to see the beautiful phenomenon called the northern light: along
the northern sky was a large space occupied by a light of a pale but
brilliant white colour: which rising from the horizon extended itself to
nearly twenty degrees above it. After glittering for some time its
colours would be overcast, and almost obscured, but again it would burst
out with renewed beauty; the uniform colour was pale light, but its
shapes were various and fantastic: at times the sky was lined with light
coloured streaks rising perpendicularly from the horizon, and gradually
expanding into a body of light in which we could trace the floating
columns sometimes advancing, sometimes retreating and shaping into
infinite forms, the space in which they moved. It all faded away before
the morning. At daylight,
Tuesday 6, the clouds to the north were darkening and the wind rose high
from the northwest at eight o'clock, and continued cold during the day.
Mr. Gravelines and four others who came with us returned to the Ricaras
in a small periogue, we gave him directions to accompany some of the
Ricara chiefs to the seat of government in the spring.
Wednesday 7. The day was temperate but cloudy and foggy, and we were
enabled to go on with our work with much expedition.
Thursday 8. The morning again cloudy; our huts advance very well, and we
are visited by numbers of Indians who come to let their horses graze
near us: in the day the horses are let loose in quest of grass, in the
night they are collected and receive an armful of small boughs of the
cottonwood, which being very juicy, soft and brittle, form nutritious
and agreeable food: the frost this morning was very severe, the weather
during the day cloudy and the wind from the northwest. We procured from
an Indian a weasel perfectly white except the extremity of the tail
which was black: great numbers of wild geese are passing to the south,
but their flight is too high for us to procure any of them.
November 10. We had again a raw day, a northwest wind, but rose early
in hopes of finishing our works before the extreme cold begins. A chief
who is a half Pawnee came to us and brought a present of half a
buffaloe, in return for which we gave him some small presents and a few
articles to his wife and son: he then crossed the river in a buffaloe
skin canoe; his wife took the boat on her back and carried it to the
village three miles off. Large flocks of geese and brant, and also a few
ducks are passing towards the south.
Sunday 11. The weather is cold. We received the visit of two squaws,
prisoners from the Rock mountains, and purchased by Chaboneau. The
Mandans at this time are out hunting the buffaloe.
Monday 12. The last night had been cold and this morning we had a very
hard frost: the wind changeable during the day, and some ice appears on
the edges of the rivers; swans too are passing to the south. The Big
White came down to us, having packed on the back of his squaw about one
hundred pounds of very fine meat: for which we gave him as well as the
squaw some presents, particularly an axe to the woman with which she was
very much pleased.
Tuesday 13. We this morning unloaded the boat and stowed away the
contents in a storehouse which we have built. At half past ten ice began
to float down the river for the first time: in the course of the morning
we were visited by the Black Cat, Poscapsahe, who brought an Assiniboin
chief and seven warriors to see us. This man, whose name is Chechawk, is
a chief of one out of three bands of Assiniboins who wander over the
plains between the Missouri and Assiniboin during the summer, and in the
winter carry the spoils of their hunting to the traders on the
Assiniboin river, and occasionally come to this place: the whole three
bands consist of about eight hundred men. We gave him a twist of tobacco
to smoke with his people, and a gold cord for himself: the Sioux also
asked for whiskey which we refused to give them. It snowed all day and
the air was very cold.
Wednesday 14. The river rose last night half an inch, and is now filled
with floating ice. This morning was cloudy with some snow: about seventy
lodges of Assiniboins and some Knistenaux are at the Mandan village, and
this being the day of adoption and exchange of property between them
all, it is accompanied by a dance, which prevents our seeing more than
two Indians to-day: these Knistenaux are a band of Chippeways whose
language they speak; they live on the Assiniboin and Saskashawan rivers,
and are about two hundred and forty men. We sent a man down on horseback
to see what had become of our hunters, and as we apprehend a failure of
provisions we have recourse to our pork this evening. Two Frenchmen who
had been below returned with twenty beaver which they had caught in
traps.
Thursday 15. The morning again cloudy, and the ice running thicker than
yesterday, the wind variable. The man came back with information that
our hunters were about thirty miles below, and we immediately sent an
order to them to make their way through the floating ice, to assist them
in which we sent some tin for the bow of the periogue and a towrope. The
ceremony of yesterday seem to continue still, for we were not visited by
a single Indian. The swan are still passing to the south.
Friday 16. We had a very hard white frost this morning, the trees are
all covered with ice, and the weather cloudy. The men this day moved
into the huts, although they are not finished. In the evening some
horses were sent down to the woods near us in order to prevent their
being stolen by the Assiniboins, with whom some difficulty is now
apprehended. An Indian came down with four buffaloe robes and some corn,
which he offered for a pistol, but was refused.
Saturday, November 17. Last night was very cold, and the ice in the
river to-day is thicker than hitherto. We are totally occupied with our
huts, but received visits from several Indians.
Sunday, November 18. To-day we had a cold windy morning; the Black Cat
came to see us, and occupied us for a long time with questions on the
usages of our country. He mentioned that a council had been held
yesterday to deliberate on the state of their affairs. It seems that not
long ago, a party of Sioux fell in with some horses belonging to the
Minnetarees, and carried them off; but in their flight they were met by
some Assiniboins, who killed the Sioux and kept the horses: a Frenchman
too who had lived many years among the Mandans, was lately killed on his
route to the British factory on the Assiniboin; some smaller differences
existed between the two nations, all of which being discussed, the
council decided that they would not resent the recent insults from the
Assiniboins and Knistenaux, until they had seen whether we had deceived
them or not in our promises of furnishing them with arms and ammunition.
They had been disappointed in their hopes of receiving them from Mr.
Evans and were afraid that we too, like him, might tell them what was
not true. We advised them to continue at peace, that supplies of every
kind would no doubt arrive for them, but that time was necessary to
organize the trade. The fact is that the Assiniboins treat the Mandans
as the Sioux do the Ricaras; by their vicinity to the British they get
all the supplies, which they withhold or give at pleasure to the remoter
Indians: the consequence is, that however badly treated, the Mandans and
Ricaras are very slow to retaliate lest they should* lose their trade
altogether.
Monday 19. The ice continues to float in the river, the wind high from
the northwest, and the weather cold. Our hunters arrived from their
excursion below, and bring a very fine supply of thirty-two deer, eleven
elk, and five buffaloe, all of which was hung in a smokehouse.
Tuesday 20. We this day moved into our huts which are now completed.
This place which we call Fort Mandan, is situated in a point of low
ground, on the north side of the Missouri, covered with tall and heavy
cottonwood. The works consist of two rows of huts or sheds, forming an
angle where they joined each other; each row containing four rooms, of
fourteen feet square and seven feet high, with plank ceiling*, and the
roof slanting so as to form a loft above the rooms, the highest part of
which is eighteen feet from the ground: the backs of the huts formed a
wall of that height, and opposite the angle the place of the wall was
supplied by picketing; in the area were two rooms for stores and
provisions. The latitude by observation is 47° 21' 47", and the computed
distance from the mouth of the Missouri sixteen hundred miles.
In the course of the day several Indians came down to partake of our
fresh meat; among the rest, three chiefs of the second Mandan village.
They inform us that the Sioux on the Missouri above the Chayenne river,
threaten to attack them this winter; that these Sioux are much irritated
at the Ricaras for having made peace through our means with the Mandans,
and have lately ill treated three Ricaras who carried the pipe of peace
to them, by beating them and taking away their horses. We gave them
assurances that we would protect them from all their enemies.
November 21st. The weather was this day fine: the river clear of ice and
rising a little: we are now settled in our new winter habitation, and
shall wait with much anxiety the first return of spring to continue our
journey.
The villages near which we are established are five in number, and are
the residence of three distinct nations: the Mandans, the Ahnahaways,
and the Minnetarees. The history of the Mandans, as we received it from
our interpreters and from the chiefs themselves, and as it is attested
by existing monuments, illustrates more than that of any other nation
the unsteady movements and the tottering fortunes of the American
nations. Within the recollection of living witnesses, the Mandans were
settled forty years ago in nine villages, the ruins of which we passed
about eighty miles below, and situated seven on the west and two on the
east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves wasting away
before the small-pox and the Sioux, united into one village, and moved
up the river opposite to the Ricaras. The same causes reduced the
remaining seven to five villages, till at length they emigrated in a
body to the Ricara nation, where they formed themselves into two
villages, and joined those of their countrymen who had gone before them.
In their new residence they were still insecure, and at length the three
villages ascended the Missouri to their present position. The two who
had emigrated together still settled in the two villages on the
northwest side of the Missouri, while the single village took a position
on the southeast side. In this situation they were found by those who
visited them in 1796; since which the two villages have united into one.
They are now in two villages, one on the southeast of the Missouri, the
other on the opposite side, and at the distance of three miles across.
The first, in an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, built
in the same way as those of the Ricaras: the second, the same number,
and both may raise about three hundred and fifty men.
On the same side of the river, and at the distance of four miles from
the lower Mandan village, is another called Mahaha. It is situated in a
high plain at the mouth of Knife river, and is the residence of the
Ahnahaways. This nation, whose name indicates that they were "people
whose village is on a hill," formerly resided on the Missouri, about
thirty miles below where they now live. The Assiniboins and Sioux forced
them to a spot five miles higher, where the greatest part of them were
put to death, and the rest emigrated to their present situation, in
order to obtain an assylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the
French, Soulier Noir or Shoe Indians; by the Mandans, Wattasoons, and
their whole force is about fifty men.
On the south side of the same Knife river, half a mile above the Mahaha
and in the same open plain with it, is a village of Minnetarees surnamed
Metaharta, who are about one hundred and fifty men in number. On the
opposite side of Knife river, and one and a half mile above this village
is a second of Minnetarees, who may be considered as the proper
Minnetaree nation. It is situated in a beautiful low plain, and contains
four hundred and fifty warriors. The accounts which we received of the
Minnetarees were contradictory. The Mandans say that this people came
out of the water to the east, and settled near them in their former
establishment in nine villages; that they were very numerous, and fixed
themselves in one village on the southern side of the Missouri. A
quarrel about a buffaloe divided the nation, of which two bands went
into the plains, and were known by the name of Crow and Paunch Indians,
and the rest moved to their present establishment. The Minnetarees
proper assert, on the contrary, that they grew where they now live, and
will never emigrate from the spot; the great spirit having declared that
if they moved they would all die. They also say that the Minnetarees
Metaharta, that is Minnetarees of the Willows, whose language with very
little variation is their own, came many years ago from the plains and
settled near them, and perhaps the two traditions may be reconciled by
the natural presumption that these Minnetarees were the tribe known to
the Mandans below, and that they ascended the river for the purpose of
rejoining the Minnetarees proper. These Minnetarees are part of the
great nation called Fall Indians, who occupy the intermediate country
between the Missouri and the Saskaskawan, and who are known by the name
of Minnetarees of the Missouri, and Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie; that
is, residing near or rather frequenting the establishment in the prairie
on the Saskaskawan. These Minnetarees indeed, told us that they had
relations on the Saskaskawan, whom they had never known till they met
them in war, and having engaged in the night were astonished at
discovering that they were fighting with men who spoke their own
language. The name of Grosventres, or Bigbellies is given to these
Minnetarees, as well as to all the Fall Indians. The inhabitants of
these five villages, all of which are within the distance of six miles,
live in harmony with each other. The Ahnahaways understand in part the
language of the Minnetarees: the dialect of the Mandans differs widely
from both; but their long residence together has insensibly blended
their manners, and occasioned some approximation in language,
particularly as to objects of daily occurrence and obvious to the
senses.
November 22. The morning was fine, and the day warm. We purchased from
the Mandans a quantity of corn of a mixed colour, which they dug up in
ears from holes made near the front of their lodges, in which it is
buried during the winter: this morning the sentinel informed us that an
Indian was about to kill his wife near the fort; we went down to the
house of our interpreter where we found the parties, and after
forbidding any violence, inquired into the cause of his intending to
commit such as atrocity. It appeared that some days ago a quarrel had
taken place between him and his wife, in consequence of which she had
taken refuge in the house where the two squaws of our interpreter lived:
by running away she forfeited her life, which might have been lawfully
taken by the husband. About two days ago she had returned to the
village, but the same evening came back to the fort much beaten and
stabbed in three places, and the husband now came for the purpose of
completing his revenge. He observed that he had lent her to one of our
serjeants for a night, and that if he wanted her he would give her to
him altogether: we gave him a few presents and tried to persuade him to
take his wife home; the grand chief too happened to arrive at the same
moment, and reproached him with his violence, till at length they went
off together, but by no means in a state of much apparent love.
November 23. Again we had a fair and warm day, with the wind from the
southeast: the river is now at a stand having risen four inches in the
whole.
November 24. The wind continued from the same quarter and the weather
was warm: we were occupied in finishing our huts and making a large rope
of elk-skin to draw our boat on the bank.
Sunday, November 25. The weather is still fine, warm and pleasant, and
the river falls one inch and a half. Captain Lewis went on an excursion
to the villages accompanied by eight men. A Minnetaree chief, the first
who has visited us, came down to the fort: his name was Waukerassa, but
as both the interpreters had gone with captain Lewis we were obliged to
confine our civilities to some presents with which he was much pleased:
we now completed our huts, and fortunately too, for the next day,
Monday, November 26, before daylight the wind shifted to the northwest,
and blew very hard, with cloudy weather and a keen cold air, which
confined us much and prevented us from working: the night continued very
cold, and,
Tuesday 27, the weather cloudy, the wind continuing from the northwest
and the river crowded with floating ice. Captain Lewis returned with two
chiefs Mahnotah, an Ahnahaway, and Minnessurraree a Minnetaree, and a
third warrior: they explained to us that the reason of their not having
come to see us, was that the Mandans had told them that we meant to
combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the course of the winter: a
suspicion increased by the strength of the fort, and the circumstance of
our interpreters having both removed there with their families: these
reports we did not fail to disprove to their entire satisfaction, and
amused them by every attention, particularly by the dancing of the men
which diverted them highly. All the Indians whom captain Lewis had
visited were very well disposed, and received him with great kindness,
except a principal chief of one of the upper villages, named
Mabpahpaparapassatoo or Horned Weasel, who made use of the civilized
indecorum of refusing to be seen, and when captain Lewis called he was
told the chief was not at home. In the course of the day seven of the
northwest company's traders arrived from the Assiniboin river, and one
of their interpreters having undertaken to circulate among the Indians
unfavourable reports, it become necessary to warn them of the
consequences if they did not desist from such proceedings. The river
fell two inches to-day and the weather became very cold.
Wednesday 28. About eight o'clock last evening it began to snow and
continued till daybreak, after which it ceased till seven o'clock, but
then resumed and continued during the day, the weather being cold and
the river full of floating ice: about eight o'clock Poscopsahe came down
to visit us, with some warriors; we gave them presents and entertained
them with all that might amuse their curiosity, and at parting we told
them that we had heard of the British trader, Mr. Laroche, having
attempted to distribute medals and flags among them, but that those
emblems could not be received from any other than the American nation
without incurring the displeasure of their great father the president.
They left us much pleased with their treatment. The river fell one inch
to-day.
Thursday 29. The wind is again from the northwest, the weather cold, and
the snow which fell yesterday and this night is thirteen inches in
depth. The river closed during the night at the village above, and fell
two feet; but this afternoon it began to rise a little. Mr. Laroche, the
principal of the seven traders, came with one of his men to see us; we
told him that we should not permit him to give medals and flags to the
Indians; he declared that he had no such intention, and we then suffered
him to make use of one of our interpreters, on his stipulating not to
touch any subject but that of his traffic with them. An unfortunate
accident occurred to sergeant Pryor, who in taking down the boat's mast
dislocated his shoulder, nor was it till after four trials that we
replaced it.
Friday 30. About eight o'clock an Indian came to the opposite bank of
the river, calling out that he had something important to communicate,
and on sending for him, he told us that five Mandans had been met about
eight leagues to the southwest by a party of Sioux, who had killed one
of them, wounded two, and taken nine horses; that four of the Wattasoons
were missing, and that the Mandans expected an attack. We thought this
an excellent opportunity to discountenance the injurious reports against
us, and to fix the wavering confidence of the nation. Captain Clarke
therefore instantly crossed the river with twenty-three men strongly
armed, and circling the town approached it from behind. His unexpected
appearance surprised and alarmed the chiefs, who came out to meet him,
and conducted him to the village. He then told them that having heard of
the outrage just committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children;
that if they would assemble their warriors and those of the nation, he
would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the blood of their
countrymen. After some minutes conversation, Oheenaw the Chayenne arose;
"We now see," said he, "that what you have told us is true, since as
soon as our enemies threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are
ready to chastise those who have spilt our blood. We did indeed listen
to your good talk, for when you told us that the other nations were
inclined to peace with us, we went out carelessly in small parties, and
some have been killed by the Sioux and Ricaras. But I knew that the
Ricaras were liars, and I told their chief who accompanied you, that his
whole nation were liars and bad men; that we had several times made a
peace with them which they were the first to break; that whenever we
pleased we might shoot them like buffaloe, but that we had no wish to
kill them; that we would not suffer them to kill us, nor steal our
horses; and that although we agreed to make peace with them, because our
two fathers desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be
faithful long. Such, father, was my language to them in your presence,
and you see that instead of listening to your good counsels they have
spilt our blood. A few days ago two Ricaras came here and told us that
two of their villages were making moccasins, that the Sioux were
stirring them up against us, and that we ought to take care of our
horses; yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news reached
us to-day, lest our people should kill them in the first moment of grief
for their murdered relatives. Four of the Wattasoons whom we expected
back in sixteen days have been absent twenty-four, and we fear have
fallen. But father the snow is now deep, the weather cold, and our
horses cannot travel through the plains; the murderers have gone off: if
you will conduct us in the spring, when the snow has disappeared, we
will assemble all the surrounding warriors and follow you."
Captain Clarke replied that we were always willing and able to defend
them; that he was sorry that the snow prevented their marching to meet
the Sioux, since he wished to show them that the warriors of their great
father would chastise the enemies of his obedient children who opened
their ears to his advice; that if some Ricaras had joined the Sioux,
they should remember that there were bad men in every nation, and that
they should not be offended at the Ricaras till they saw whether these
ill-disposed men were countenanced by the whole tribe; that the Sioux
possessed great influence over the Ricaras, whom they supplied with
military stores, and sometimes led them astray, because they were afraid
to oppose them: but that this should be the less offensive since the
Mandans themselves were under the same apprehensions from the
Assiniboins and Knistenaux, and that while they were thus dependant,
both the Ricaras and Mandans ought to keep on terms with their powerful
neighbours, whom they may afterwards set at defiance, when we shall
supply them with arms, and take them under our protection.
After two hours conversation captain Clarke left the village. The chief
repeatedly thanked him for the fatherly protection he had given them,
observing that the whole village had been weeping all night and day for
the brave young man who had been slain, but now they would wipe their
eyes and weep no more as they saw that their father would protect them.
He then crossed the river on the ice and returned on the north side to
the fort. The day as well as the evening was cold, and the river rose to
its former height.
Saturday, December 1. The wind was from the northwest, and the whole
party engaged in picketing the fort. About ten o'clock the half-brother
of the man who had been killed, came to inform us that six Sharhas or
Chayenne Indians had arrived, bringing a pipe of peace, and that their
nation was three days march behind them. Three Pawnees had accompanied
the Sharhas, and the Mandans being afraid of the Sharhas on account of
their being at peace with the Sioux, wished to put both them and the
three Pawnees to death; but the chiefs had forbidden it as it would be
contrary to our wishes. We gave him a present of tobacco, and although
from his connexion with the sufferer, he was more embittered against the
Pawnees than any other Mandan, yet he seemed perfectly satisfied with
our pacific counsels and advice. The Mandans, we observe, call all the
Ricaras by the name of Pawnees; the name of Ricaras being that by which
the nation distinguishes itself.
In the evening we were visited by a Mr. Henderson, who came from the
Hudson bay company to trade with the Minnetarees. He had been about
eight days on his route in a direction nearly south, and brought with
him tobacco, beeds, and other merchandize to trade for furs, and a few
guns which are to be exchanged for horses.
Sunday, December 2. The latter part of the evening was warm, and a thaw
continued till the morning, when the wind shifted to the north. At
eleven o'clock the chiefs of the lower village brought down four of the
Sharhas. We explained to them our intentions, and advised them to remain
at peace with each other: we also gave them a flag, some tobacco, and a
speech for their nation. These were accompanied by a letter to messrs.
Tabeau and Gravelines at the Ricara village, requesting them to preserve
peace if possible, and to declare the part which we should be forced to
take if the Ricaras and Sioux made war on those whom we had adopted.
After distributing a few presents to the Sharhas and Mandans, and
showing them our curiosities we dismissed them, apparently well pleased
at their reception.
Monday, December 3. The morning was fine, but in the afternoon the
weather became cold with the wind from the northwest. The father of the
Mandan who was killed brought us a present of dried pumpkins and some
pemitigon, for which we gave him some small articles. Our offer of
assistance to avenge the death of his son seemed to have produced a
grateful respect from him, as well as from the brother of the deceased,
which pleased us much.
Tuesday 4th. The wind continues from the northwest, the weather cloudy
and raw, and the river rose one inch, Oscapsahe and two young chiefs
pass the day with us. The whole religion of the Mandans consists in the
belief of one great spirit presiding over their destinies. This being
must be in the nature of a good genius since it is associated with the
healing art, and the great spirit is synonymous with great medicine, a
name also applied to every thing which they do not comprehend. Each
individual selects for himself the particular object of his devotion,
which is termed his medicine, and is either some invisible being or more
commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector or his
intercessor with the great spirit; to propitiate whom every attention is
lavished, and every personal consideration is sacrificed. "I was lately
owner of seventeen horses," said a Mandan to us one day, "but I have
offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor." He had in reality
taken all his wealth, his horses, into the plain, and turning them loose
committed them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever.
The horses less religious took care of themselves, and the pious votary
travelled home on foot. Their belief in a future state is connected with
this tradition of their origin: the whole nation resided in one large
village under ground near a subterraneous lake; a grape-vine extended
its roots down to their habitation and gave them a view of the light:
some of the most adventurous climed up the vine and were delighted with
the sight of the earth, which they found covered with buffaloe and rich
with every kind of fruits: returning with the grapes they had gathered,
their countrymen were so pleased with the taste of them that the whole
nation resolved to leave their dull residence for the charms of the
upper region; men, women and children ascended by means of the vine; but
when about half the nation had reached the surface of the earth, a
corpulent woman who was clambering up the vine broke it with her weight,
and closed upon herself and the rest of the nation the light of the sun.
Those who were left on earth made a village below where we saw the nine
villages; and when the Mandans die they expect to return to the original
seats of their forefathers; the good reaching the ancient village by
means of the lake, which the burden of the sins of the wicked will not
enable them to cross.
Wednesday 5. The morning was cold and disagreeable, the wind from the
southeast accompanied with snow: in the evening there was snow again and
the wind shifted to the northeast: we were visited by several Indians
with a present of pumpkins, and by two of the traders of the northwest
company.
Thursday 6. The wind was violent from the north northwest with some
snow, the air keen and cold. At eight o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood
at ten degrees above 0, and the river rose an inch and a half in the
course of the day.
Friday, December 7. The wind still continued from the northwest and the
day is very cold: Shahaka the chief of the lower village came to apprise
us that the buffaloe were near, and that his people were waiting for us
to join them in the chase: captain Clark with fifteen men went out and
found the Indians engaged in killing the buffaloe, the hunters mounted
on horseback and armed with bows and arrows encircle the herd, and
gradually drive them into a plain or an open place fit for the movements
of horse; they then ride in among them, and singling out a buffaloe, a
female being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her with
arrows till they think they have given the mortal stroke; when they
pursue another till the quiver is exhausted: if, which rarely happens,
the wounded buffaloe attacks the hunter, he evades his blow by the
agility of his horse which is trained for the combat with great
dexterity. When they have killed the requisite number they collect their
game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin and
dress the animals. Captain Clarke killed ten buffaloe, of which five
only were brought to the fort, the rest which could not be conveyed home
being seized by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever a
buffaloe is found dead without an arrow or any particular mark, he is
the property of the finder; so that often a hunter secures scarcely any
of the game he kills if the arrow happens to fall off: whatever is left
out at night falls to the share of the wolves, who are the constant and
numerous attendants of the buffaloe. The river closed opposite the fort
last night, an inch and a half in thickness. In the morning the
thermometer stood at one degree below 0. Three men were badly
frostbitten in consequence of their exposure.
Saturday 8. The thermometer stood at twelve degrees below 0, that is at
forty-two degrees below the freezing point: the wind was from the
northwest. Captain Lewis with fifteen men went out to hunt the buffaloe;
great numbers of which darkened the prairies for a considerable
distance: they did not return till after dark, having killed eight
buffaloe and one deer. The hunt was, however, very fatiguing, as they
were obliged to make a circuit at the distance of more than seven miles;
the cold too, was so excessive that the air was filled with icy
particles resembling a fog, and the snow generally six or eight inches
deep and sometimes eighteen, in consequence of which two of the party
were hurt by falls, and several had their feet frostbitten.
Sunday 9. The wind was this day from the east, the thermometer at seven
degrees above 0, and the sun shone clear: two chiefs visited us, one in
a sleigh drawn by a dog and loaded with meat.
Monday 10. Captain Clarke who had gone out yesterday with eighteen men
to bring in the meat we had killed the day before, and to continue the
hunt, came in at twelve o'clock. After killing nine buffaloe and
preparing that already dead, he had spent a cold disagreeable night on
the snow, with no covering but a small blanket, sheltered by the hides
of the buffaloe they had killed. We observe large herds of buffaloe
crossing the river on the ice, the men who were frostbitten are
recovering, but the weather is still exceedingly cold, the wind being
from the north, and the thermometer at ten and eleven degrees below 0:
the rise of the river is one inch and a half.
Tuesday 11. The weather became so intensely cold that we sent for all
the hunters who had remained out with captain Clarke's party, and they
returned in the evening several of them frostbitten. The wind was from
the north and the thermometer at sunrise stood at twenty-one below 0,
the ice in the atmosphere being so thick as to render the weather hazy
and give the appearance of two suns reflecting each other. The river
continues at a stand. Pocapsahe made us a visit to-day.
Wednesday, December 12. The wind is still from the north, the
thermometer being at sunrise thirty-eight degrees below 0. One of the
Ahnahaways brought us down the half of an antelope killed near the fort;
we had been informed that all these animals return to the Black
mountains, but there are great numbers of them about us at this season
which we might easily kill, but are unwilling to venture out before our
constitutions are hardened gradually to the climate. We measured the
river on the ice, and find it five hundred yards wide immediately
opposite the fort.
Thursday 13. Last night was clear and a very heavy frost covered the old
snow, the thermometer at sun rise being twenty degrees below 0, and
followed by a fine day. The river falls.
Friday 14. The morning was fine, and the weather having moderated so
far, that the mercury stood at 0, captain Lewis went down with a party
to hunt; they proceeded about eighteen miles, but the buffaloe having
left the banks of the river they saw only two, which were so poor as not
to be worth killing, and shot two deer. Notwithstanding the snow we were
visited by a large number of the Mandans.
Saturday 15. Captain Lewis finding no game returned to the fort hunting
on both sides of the river, but with no success. The wind being from the
north, the mercury at sunrise eight degrees below 0, and the snow of
last night an inch and a half in depth. The Indian chiefs continue to
visit us to-day with presents of meat.
Sunday 16. The morning is clear and cold, the mercury at sunrise 22°
below 0. A Mr. Haney with two other persons from the British
establishment on the Assiniboin, arrived in six days with a letter from
Mr. Charles Chabouilles, one of the company, who with much politeness
offered to render us any service in his power.
Monday 17. The weather to-day was colder than any we had yet
experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 45° below 0, and about
eight o'clock it fell to 74° below the freezing point. From Mr. Haney,
who is a very sensible intelligent man, we obtained much geographical
information with regard to the country between the Missouri and
Mississippi, and the various tribes of Sioux who inhabit it.
Tuesday 18. The thermometer at sunrise was 32° below 0. The Indians had
invited us yesterday to join their chace to-day, but the seven men whom
we sent returned in consequence of the cold, which was so severe last
night that we were obliged to have the sentinel relieved every half
hour. The northwest traders however left us on their return home.
Wednesday 19. The weather moderated, and the river rose a little,
so that we were enabled to continue the picketing of the fort.
Notwithstanding the extreme cold, we observe the Indians at the village
engaged out in the open air at a game which resembled billiards more
than any thing we had seen, and which we inclined to suspect may have
been acquired by ancient intercourse with the French of Canada. From
the first to the second chief's lodge, a distance of about fifty yards,
was covered with timber smoothed and joined so as to be as level as the
floor of one of our houses, with a battery at the end to stop the rings:
these rings were of clay-stone and flat like the chequers for drafts,
and the sticks were about four feet long, with two short pieces at one
end in the form of a mace, so fixed that the whole will slide along the
board. Two men fix themselves at one end, each provided with a stick,
and one of them with a ring: they then run along the board, and about
half way slide the sticks after the ring.
Thursday 20. The wind was from the N.W. the weather moderate, the
thermometer 24° above at sunrise. We availed ourselves of this change to
picket the fort near the river.
Friday 21. The day was fine and warm, the wind N.W. by W. The Indian
who had been prevented a few days ago from killing his wife, came with
both his wives to the fort, and was very desirous of reconciling our
interpreter, a jealousy against whom on account of his wife's taking
refuge in his house, had been the cause of his animosity. A woman
brought her child with an abscess in the lower part of the back, and
offered as much corn as she could carry for some medicine; we
administered to it of course very cheerfully.
Saturday, 22d. A number of squaws and men dressed like squaws brought
corn to trade for small articles with the men. Among other things we
procured two horns of the animal called by the French the Rock mountain
sheep, and known to the Mandans by the name of ahsahta. The animal
itself is about the size of a small elk or large deer: the horns winding
like those of a ram which they resemble also in texture, though larger
and thicker.
Sunday, 23d. The weather was fine and warm like that of yesterday: we
were again visited by crowds of Indians of all descriptions, who came
either to trade or from mere curiosity. Among the rest Kogahami, the
Little Raven, brought his wife and son loaded with corn, and she then
entertained us with a favourite Mandan dish, a mixture of pumpkins,
beans, corn, and chokecherries with the stones, all boiled together in a
kettle, and forming a composition by no means unpalatable.
Monday, 24th. The day continued warm and pleasant, and the number of
visitors became troublesome. As a present to three of the chiefs, we
divided a fillet of sheepskin which we brought for spunging into three
pieces each of two inches in width; they were delighted at the gift,
which they deemed of equal value with a fine horse. We this day
completed our fort, and the next morning being Christmas,
Tuesday, 25th, we were awaked before day by a discharge of three
platoons from the party. We had told the Indians not to visit us as it
was one of our great medicine days; so that the men remained at home and
amused themselves in various ways, particularly with dancing in which
they take great pleasure. The American flag was hoisted for the first
time in the fort; the best provisions we had were brought out, and this,
with a little brandy, enabled them to pass the day in great festivity.
Wednesday, 26th. The weather is again temperate, but no Indians have
come to see us. One of the northwest traders who came down to request
the aid of our Minnetaree interpreter, informs us that a party of
Minnetarees who had gone in pursuit of the Assiniboins who lately stole
their horses had just returned. As is their custom, they came back in
small detachments, the last of which brought home eight horses which
they had captured or stolen from an Assiniboin camp on Mouse river.
Thursday, 27th. A little fine snow fell this morning and the air was
colder than yesterday, with a high northwest wind. We were fortunate
enough to have among our men a good blacksmith, whom we set to work to
make a variety of articles; his operations seemed to surprise the
Indians who came to see us, but nothing could equal their astonishment
at the bellows, which they considered as a very great medicine. Having
heretofore promised a more particular account of the Sioux, the
following may serve as a general outline of their history:
Almost the whole of that vast tract of country comprised between the
Mississippi, the Red River of Lake Winnepeg, the Saskaskawan, and the
Missouri, is loosely occupied by a great nation whose primitive name is
Darcota, but who are called Sioux by the French, Sues by the English.
Their original seats were on the Mississippi, but they have gradually
spread themselves abroad and become subdivided into numerous tribes. Of
these, what may be considered as the Darcotas are the Mindawarcarton, or
Minowakanton, known to the French by the name of the Gens du Lac, or
People of the Lake. Their residence is on both sides of the Mississippi
near the falls of St. Anthony, and the probable number of their warriors
about three hundred. Above them, on the river St. Peter's, is the
Wahpatone, a smaller band of nearly two hundred men; and still farther
up the same river below Yellow-wood river are the Wahpatootas or Gens de
Feuilles, an inferior band of not more than one hundred men; while the
sources of the St. Peter's are occupied by the Sisatoones, a band
consisting of about two hundred warriors.
These bands rarely if ever approach the Missouri, which is occupied by
their kinsmen the Yanktons and the Tetons. The Yanktons are of two
tribes, those of the plains, or rather of the north, a wandering race of
about five hundred men, who roam over the plains at the heads of the
Jacques, the Sioux, and the Red river; and those of the south, who
possess the country between the Jacques and Sioux rivers and the
Desmoine. But the bands of Sioux most known on the Missouri are the
Tetons. The first who are met on ascending the Missouri is the tribe
called by the French the Tetons of the Boise Brule or Burntwood, who
reside on both sides of the Missouri, about White and Teton rivers, and
number two hundred warriors. Above them on the Missouri are the Teton
Okandandas, a band of one hundred and fifty men living below the
Chayenne river, between which and the Wetarhoo river is a third band,
called Teton Minnakenozzo, of nearly two hundred and fifty men; and
below the Warreconne is the fourth and last tribe of Tetons of about
three hundred men, and called Teton Saone. Northward of these, between
the Assiniboin and the Missouri, are two bands of Assiniboins, one on
Mouse river of about two hundred men, and called Assiniboin Menatopa;
the other, residing on both sides of White river, called by the French
Gens de Feuilles, and amounting to two hundred and fifty men. Beyond
these a band of Assiniboins of four hundred and fifty men, and called
the Big Devils, wander on the heads of Milk, Porcupine, and Martha's
rivers; while still farther to the north are seen two bands of the same
nation, one of five hundred and the other of two hundred, roving on the
Saskaskawan. Those Assiniboins are recognised by a similarity of
language, and by tradition as descendents or seceders from the Sioux;
though often at war are still acknowledged as relations. The Sioux
themselves, though scattered, meet annually on the Jacques, those on the
Missouri trading with those on the Mississippi.
CHAPTER VI.
The party increase in the favour of the Mandans--Description of a
buffaloe dance--Medicine dance--The fortitude with which the
Indians bear the severity of the season--Distress of the party for
want of provisions--The great importance of the blacksmith in
procuring it--Depredations of the Sioux--The homage paid to the
medicine stone--Summary act of justice among the Minnetarees--The
process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make beads--Character of
the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers,
creeks, islands, &c.
Friday, 28th. The wind continued high last night, the frost severe, and
the snow drifting in great quantities through the plains.
Saturday, 29th. There was a frost fell last night nearly one quarter of
an inch in depth, which continued to fall till the sun had gained some
height: the mercury at sunrise stood at 9° below 0: there were a number
of Indians at the fort in the course of the day.
Sunday, 30th. The weather was cold, and the thermometer 20° below 0. We
killed one deer, and yesterday one of the men shot a wolf. The Indians
brought corn, beans, and squashes, which they very readily gave for
getting their axes and kettles mended. In their general conduct during
these visits they are honest, but will occasionally pilfer any small
article.
Monday, 31. During the night there was a high wind which covered the ice
with hillocks of mixed sand and snow: the day was however fine, and the
Indians came in great numbers for the purpose of having their utensils
repaired.
Tuesday, January 1, 1805. The new year was welcomed by two shot from the
swivel and a round of small arms. The weather was cloudy but moderate;
the mercury which at sunrise was at 18°, in the course of the day rose
to 34° above 0: towards evening it began to rain, and at night we had
snow, the temperature for which is about 0. In the morning we permitted
sixteen men with their music to go up to the first village, where they
delighted the whole tribe with their dances, particularly with the
movements of one of the Frenchmen who danced on his head. In return they
presented the dancers with several buffaloe robes and quantities of
corn. We were desirous of showing this attention to the village, because
they had received an impression that we had been wanting in regard for
them, and they had in consequence circulated invidious comparisons
between us and the northern traders: all these however they declared to
captain Clarke, who visited them in the course of the morning, were made
in jest. As captain Clarke was about leaving the village, two of their
chiefs returned from a mission to the Grosventres or wandering
Minnetarees. These people were encamped about ten miles above, and while
there one of the Ahnahaways had stolen a Minnetaree girl: the whole
nation immediately espoused the quarrel, and one hundred and fifty of
their warriors were marching down to revenge the insult on the
Ahnahaways. The chief of that nation took the girl from the ravisher,
and giving her to the Mandans requested their intercession. The
messengers went out to meet the warriors, and delivered the young damsel
into the hands of her countrymen, smoked the pipe of peace with them,
and were fortunate enough to avert their indignation and induce them to
return. In the evening some of the men came to the fort and the rest
slept in the village. Pocapsahe also visited us and brought some meat on
his wife's back.
Wednesday, January 2. It snowed last night, and during this day the same
scene of gayety was renewed at the second village, and all the men
returned in the evening.
Thursday 3. Last night it became very cold, and this morning we had some
snow: our hunters were sent out for buffaloe, but the game had been
frightened from the river by the Indians, so that they obtained only
one: they however killed a hare and a wolf. Among the Indians who
visited us was a Minnetaree who came to seek his wife: she had been much
abused and came here for protection, but returned with him; as we had no
authority to separate those whom even the Mandan rites had united.
Friday 4. The morning was cloudy and warm, the mercury being 28° above
0: but towards evening the wind changed to northwest, and the weather
became cold. We sent some hunters down the river, but they killed only
one buffaloe and a wolf. We received the visit of Kagohami who is very
friendly, and to whom we gave a hankerchief and two files.
Saturday 5. We had high and boisterous winds last night and this
morning: the Indians continue to purchase repairs with grain of
different kinds. In the first village there has been a buffaloe dance
for the last three nights, which has put them all into commotion, and
the description which we received from those of the party who visited
the village and from other sources, is not a little ludicrous: the
buffaloe dance is an institution originally intended for the benefit of
the old men, and practised at their suggestion. When buffaloe becomes
scarce they send a man to harangue the village, declaring that the game
is far off and that a feast is necessary to bring it back, and if the
village be disposed a day and place is named for the celebration of it.
At the appointed hour the old men arrive, and seat themselves
crosslegged on skins round a fire in the middle of the lodge with a sort
of doll or small image, dressed like a female, placed before them. The
young men bring with them a platter of provisions, a pipe of tobacco,
and their wives, whose dress on the occasion is only a robe or mantle
loosely thrown round the body. On their arrival each youth selects the
old man whom he means to distinguish by his favour, and spreads before
him the provisions, after which he presents the pipe and smokes with
him. Mox senex vir simulacrum parvæ puellæ ostensit. Tune egrediens
eætu, jecit effigium solo et superincumbens, senili ardore veneris
complexit. Hoc est signum. Denique uxor e turba recessit, et jactu
corporis, fovet amplexus viri solo recubante. Maritus appropinquans
senex vir dejecto vultu, et honorem et dignitatem ejus conservare
amplexu uxoris illum oravit. Forsitan imprimis ille refellit; dehine,
maritus multis precibus, multis lachrymis, et multis donis vehementer
intercessit. Tune senex amator perculsus miserecordia, tot precibus, tot
lachrymis, et tot donis, conjugali amplexu submisit. Multum ille
jactatus est, sed debilis et effoetus senectute, frustra jactatus est.
Maritus interdum stans juxta guadit multum honore, et ejus dignitati sic
conservata. Unus nostrum sodalium multum alacrior et potentior
juventute, hac nocte honorem quartour maritorum custodivit.
Sunday 6. A clear cold morning with high wind: we caught in a trap a
large gray wolf, and last night obtained in the same way a fox who had
for some time infested the neighbourhood of the fort. Only a few Indians
visited us to-day.
Monday 7. The weather was again clear and cold with a high northwest
wind, and the thermometer at sunrise 22° below 0; the river fell an
inch. Shahaka the Big White chief dined with us, and gave a connected
sketch of the country as far as the mountains.
Tuesday 8. The wind was still from the northwest, the day cold, and we
received few Indians at the fort. Besides the buffaloe dance we have
just described, there is another called medicine dance, an entertainment
given by any person desirous of doing honour to his medicine or genius.
He announces, that on such a day he will sacrifice his horses, or other
property, and invites the young females of the village to assist in
rendering homage to his medicine; all the inhabitants may join in the
solemnity, which is performed in the open plain and by daylight, but the
dance is reserved for the virgins or at least the unmarried females, who
disdain the incumbrance or the ornament of dress. The feast is opened
by devoting the goods of the master of the feast to his medicine, which
is represented by a head of the animal itself, or by a medicine bag if
the deity be an invisible being. The young women then begin the dance,
in the intervals of which each will prostrate herself before the
assembly to challenge or reward the boldness of the youth, who are often
tempted by feeling or the hopes of distinction to achieve the adventure.
Wednesday 9. The weather is cold, the thermometer at sunrise 21° below
0. Kagohami breakfasted with us, and captain Clarke with three or four
men accompanied him and a party of Indians to hunt, in which they were
so fortunate as to kill a number of buffaloe: but they were incommoded
by snow, by high and squally winds, and by extreme cold; several of the
Indians came to the fort nearly frozen, others are missing, and we are
uneasy, for one of our men who was separated from the rest during the
chase has not returned: In the morning,
Thursday 10, however, he came back just as we were sending out five men
in search of him. The night had been excessively cold, and this morning
at sunrise the mercury stood at 40° below 0, or 72 below the freezing
point. He had however, made a fire and kept himself tolerably warm. A
young Indian, about thirteen years of age, also came in soon after. His
father who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, had sent
him in the afternoon to the fort: he was overtaken by the night, and was
obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of antelope
skin moccasins and leggings and a buffaloe robe: his feet being frozen
we put them into cold water, and gave him every attention in our power.
About the same time an Indian who had also been missing returned to the
fort, and although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow
without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. We have
indeed observed that these Indians support the rigours of the season in
a way which we had hitherto thought impossible. A more pleasing
reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest which the situation of
these two persons had excited in the village, the boy had been a
prisoner and adopted from charity, yet the distress of the father proved
that he felt for him the tenderest affection, the man was a person of no
distinction, yet the whole village was full of anxiety for his safety
and when they came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring them home with
ease, if they survived, or to carry their bodies if they had perished.
Friday 11. We despatched three hunters to join the same number whom we
had sent below about seven miles to hunt elk. Like that of yesterday the
weather to-day was cold and clear, the thermometer standing at 38° below
0. Poscopsahe and Shotahawrora visited us, and past the night at the
fort.
Saturday 12. The weather continues very cold, the mercury at sunrise
being 20° below 0. Three of the hunters returned, having killed three
elk.
Sunday 13. We have a continuation of clear weather, and the cold has
increased, the mercury having sunk to 34° below 0. Nearly one half of
the Mandan nation passed down the river to hunt for several days; in
these excursions men, women and children, with their dogs, all leave the
village together, and after discovering a spot convenient for the game,
fix their tents; all the family bear their part in the labour, and the
game is equally divided among the families of the tribe. When a single
hunter returns from the chase with more than is necessary for his own
immediate consumption, the neighbours are entitled by custom to a share
of it: they do not however ask for it, but send a squaw, who without
saying any thing, sits down by the door of the lodge till the master
understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously a part for her family.
Chaboneau who with one man had gone to some lodges of Minnetarees near
the Turtle mountain, returned with their faces much frostbitten. They
had been about ninety miles distant, and procured from the inhabitants
some meat and grease, with which they loaded the horses. He informs us
that the agent of the Hudson bay company at that place, had been
endeavouring to make unfavourable impressions with regard to us on the
mind of the great chief, and that the N.W. company intend building a
fort there. The great chief had in consequence spoken slightly of the
Americans, but said that if we would give him our great flag he would
come and see us.
Monday 14. The Mandans continue to pass down the river on their hunting
party, and were joined by six of our men. One of those sent on Thursday
returned, with information that one of his companions had his feet so
badly frostbitten that he could not walk home. In their excursion they
had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, two porcupines and a white hare. The
weather was more moderate to-day, the mercury being at 16° below 0, and
the wind from the S.E. we had however some snow, after which it remained
cloudy.
Tuesday 15. The morning is much warmer than yesterday, and the snow
begins to melt, though the wind after being for some time from the S.E.
suddenly shifted to N.W. Between twelve and three o'clock A.M. there was
a total eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the
observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude.
We were visited by four of the most distinguished men of the
Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions, as we knew that they
had been taught to entertain strong prejudices against us; these we
succeeded so well in removing, that when in the morning,
Wednesday 16, about thirty Mandans, among whom six were chiefs came to
see us, the Minnetarees reproached them with their falsehoods, declaring
that they were bad men and ought to hide themselves. They had told the
Minnetarees that we would kill them if they came to the fort, yet on the
contrary they had spent a night there and been treated with kindness by
the whites, who had smoked with them and danced for their amusement.
Kagohami visited us and brought us a little corn, and soon afterwards
one of the first war chiefs of the Minnetarees came accompanied by his
squaw, a handsome woman, whom he was desirous we should use during the
night. He favoured us with a more acceptable present, a draft of the
Missouri in his manner, and informed us of his intention to go to war in
the spring against the Snake Indians; we advised him to reflect
seriously before he committed the peace of his nation to the hazards of
war; to look back on the numerous nations whom war has destroyed, that
if he wished his nation to be happy he should cultivate peace and
intercourse with all his neighbours, by which means they would procure
more horses, increase in numbers, and that if he went to war he would
displease his great father the president, and forfeit his protection. We
added that we had spoken thus to all the tribes whom we had met, that
they had all opened their ears, and that the president would compel
those who did not voluntarily listen to his advice. Although a young man
of only twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him. He
observed that if it would be displeasing to us he would not go to war,
since he had horses enough, and that he would advise all the nation to
remain at home, until we had seen the Snake Indians, and discovered
whether their intentions were pacific. The party who went down with the
horses for the man who was frostbitten returned, and we are glad to find
his complaint not serious.
Thursday 17. The day was very windy from the north; the morning clear
and cold, the thermometer at sunrise being at 0: we had several Indians
with us.
Friday 18. The weather is fine and moderate. Messrs. Laroche and
M'Kenzie, two of the N.W. company's traders, visited us with some of the
Minnetarees. In the afternoon two of our hunters returned, having killed
four wolves and a blaireau.
Saturday 19. Another cloudy day. The two traders set out on their
return, and we sent two men with the horses thirty miles below to the
hunting camp.
Sunday 20. The day fair and cold. A number of Indians visit us with corn
to exchange for articles, and to pay for repairs to their household
utensils.
Monday 21. The weather was fine and moderate. The hunters all returned,
having killed during their absence three elk, four deer, two porcupines,
a fox and a hare.
Tuesday 22. The cold having moderated and the day pleasant, we attempted
to cut the boats out of the ice, but at the distance of eight inches
came to water, under which the ice became three feet thick, so that we
were obliged to desist.
Wednesday 23. The cold weather returned, the mercury having sunk 2°
below 0, and the snow fell four inches deep.
Thursday 24. The day was colder than any we have had lately, the
thermometer being at 12° below 0. The hunters whom we sent out returned
unsuccessful, and the rest were occupied in cutting wood to make
charcoal.
Friday 25. The thermometer was at 25° below 0, the Wind from N.W. and
the day fair, so that the men were employed in preparing coal, and
cutting the boats out of the ice. A band of Assiniboins headed by their
chief, called by the French, Son of the Little Calf, have arrived at the
villages.
Saturday 26. A fine warm day: a number of Indians dine with us: and one
of our men is attacked with a violent pleurisy.
Sunday 27. Another warm and pleasant day: we again attempted to get the
boat out of the ice. The man who has the pleurisy was blooded and
sweated, and we were forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who
was frostbitten some time since. Our interpreter returned from the
villages, bringing with him three of Mr. Laroche's horses which he had
sent in order to keep them out of the way of the Assiniboins, who are
very much disposed to steal, and who have just returned to their camp.
Monday 28. The weather to-day is clear and cold: we are obliged to
abandon the plan of cutting the boat through the ice, and therefore made
another attempt the next day,
Tuesday 29, by heating a quantity of stones so as to warm the water in
the boat, and thaw the surrounding ice: but in this too we were
disappointed, as all the stones on being put into the fire cracked into
pieces: the weather warm and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is
recovering.
Wednesday 30. The morning was fair, but afterwards became cloudy. Mr.
Laroche the trader from the northwest company paid us a visit, in hopes
of being able to accompany us on our journey westward, but this proposal
we thought it best to decline.
Thursday 31. It snowed last night, and the morning is cold and
disagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest: we sent five hunters
down the river. Another man is taken with the pleurisy.
Friday, February 1. A cold windy day: our hunters returned having killed
only one deer. One of the Minnetaree war chiefs, a young man named
Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing Snake, came to see us and procure a war
hatchet: he also requested that we would suffer him to go to war against
the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan some time ago: this we
refused for reasons which we explained to him. He acknowledged that we
were right, and promised to open his ears to our counsels.
Saturday 2. The day is fine: another deer was killed. Mr. Laroche who
has been very anxious to go with us left the fort to-day, and one of the
squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter is taken ill.
Sunday 3. The weather is again pleasant: disappointed in all our efforts
to get the boats free, we occupied ourselves in making iron spikes so as
to prize them up by means of long poles.
Monday 4. The morning fair and cold, the mercury at sunrise being 18°
below 0, and the wind from the northwest. The stock of meat which we
had procured in November and December being now nearly exhausted, it
became necessary to renew our supply; captain Clarke therefore took
eighteen men, and with two sleighs and three horses descended the river
for the purpose of hunting, as the buffaloe has disappeared from our
neighbourhood, and the Indians are themselves suffering for want of
meat. Two deer were killed to-day but they were very lean.
Tuesday 5. A pleasant fair morning with the wind from northwest: a
number of the Indians come with corn for the blacksmith, who being now
provided with coal has become one of our greatest resources for
procuring grain. They seem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a
very inconvenient figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely
thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the point and
five or six inches on each side, whence they converge towards the eye,
which is circular and about an inch in diameter, the blade itself being
not more than an inch wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or
fifteen inches long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of
ornament, the blade is perforated with several circular holes. The
length of the blade compared with the shortness of the handle render it
a weapon of very little strength, particularly as it is always used on
horseback: there is still however another form which is even worse, the
same sort of handle being fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon.
Wednesday, February 6. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind N.W.
A number of Indian chiefs visited us and withdrew after we had smoked
with them contrary to their custom, for after being once introduced into
our apartment they are fond of lounging about during the remainder of
the day. One of the men killed three antelopes. Our blacksmith has his
time completely occupied, so great is the demand for utensils of
different kinds. The Indians are particularly fond of sheet iron, out of
which they form points for arrows and instruments for scraping hides,
and when the blacksmith cut up an old cambouse of that metal, we
obtained for every piece of four inches square seven or eight gallons of
corn from the Indians, who were delighted at the exchange.
Thursday 7. The morning was fair and much warmer than for some days, the
thermometer being at 18° above 0, and the wind from the S.E. A number of
Indians continue to visit us; but learning that the interpreter's squaws
had been accustomed to unbar the gate during the night, we ordered a
lock put on it, and that no Indian should remain in the fort all night,
nor any person admitted during the hours when the gate is closed, that
is from sunset to sunrise.
Friday 8. A fair pleasant morning, with S.E. winds. Pocopsahe came down
to the fort with a bow, and apologized for his not having finished a
shield which he had promised captain Lewis, and which the weather had
prevented him from completing. This chief possesses more firmness,
intelligence, and integrity, than any Indian of this country, and he
might be rendered highly serviceable in our attempts to civilize the
nation. He mentioned that the Mandans are very much in want of meat, and
that he himself had not tasted any for several days. To this distress
they are often reduced by their own improvidence, or by their unhappy
situation. Their principal article of food is buffaloe-meat, their corn,
beans, and other grain being reserved for summer, or as a last resource
against what they constantly dread, an attack from the Sioux, who drive
off the game and confine them to their villages. The same fear too
prevents their going out to hunt in small parties to relieve their
occasional wants, so that the buffaloe is generally obtained in large
quantities and wasted by carelessness.
Saturday 9. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind from the S.E.
Mr. M'Kenzie from the N.W. company establishment visited us.
Sunday 10. A slight snow fell in the course of the night, the morning
was cloudy, and the northwest wind blew so high that although the
thermometer was 18° above 0, the day was cooler than yesterday, when it
was only 10° above the same point. Mr. M'Kenzie left us, and Chaboneau
returned with information that our horses loaded with meat were below,
but could not cross the ice not being shod.
Monday 11. We sent down a party with sleds, to relieve the horses from
their loads; the weather fair and cold, with a N.W. wind. About five
o'clock one of the wives of Chaboneau was delivered of a boy; this being
her first child she was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told
captain Lewis that he had frequently administered to persons in her
situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which had never
failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of the rattle, captain Lewis
gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled two of the rings of it between his
fingers, and mixing it with a small quantity of water gave it to her.
What effect it may really have had it might be difficult to determine,
but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken it more than ten
minutes before the delivery took place.
Tuesday 12. The morning is fair though cold, the mercury being 14° below
the wind from the S.E. About four o'clock the horses were brought in
much fatigued; on giving them meal bran moistened with water they would
not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cottonwood, which as is
already observed forms their principal food during the winter. The
horses of the Mandans are so often stolen by the Sioux, Ricaras, and
Assiniboins, that the invariable rule now is to put the horses every
night in the same lodge with the family. In the summer they ramble in
the plains in the vicinity of the camp, and feed on the grass, but
during cold weather the squaws cut down the cottonwood trees as they are
wanted, and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of the tender
branches, which are also brought into the lodges at night and placed
near them. These animals are very severely treated; for whole days they
are pursuing the buffaloe, or burdened with the fruits of the chase,
during which they scarcely ever taste food, and at night return to a
scanty allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal
sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely deficient
either in flesh or vigour.
Wednesday 13. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer at 2° below 0, the
wind from the southeast. Captain Clarke returned last evening with all
his hunting party: during their excursion they had killed forty deer,
three buffaloe, and sixteen elk; but most of the game was too lean for
use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at night as their own,
had appropriated a large part of it: when he left the fort on the 4th
instant, he descended on the ice twenty-two miles to New Mandan island,
near some of their old villages, and encamped, having killed nothing,
and therefore without food for the night.
Early on the 5th, the hunters went out and killed two buffaloe and a
deer, but the last only could be used, the others being too lean. After
breakfast they proceeded down to an Indian lodge and hunted during the
day: the next morning, 6th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort
on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest side, which
they call Hunting creek, and during this and the following day hunted
through all the adjoining plains, with much success, having killed a
number of deer and elk. On the 8th, the best of the meat was sent with
the horses to the fort, and such parts of the remainder as were fit for
use were brought to a point of the river three miles below, and after
the bones were taken out, secured in pens built of logs, so as to keep
off the wolves, ravens and magpies, who are very numerous and constantly
disappoint the hunter of his prey: they then went to the low grounds
near the Chisshetaw river where they encamped, but saw nothing except
some wolves on the hills, and a number of buffaloe too poor to be worth
hunting. The next morning 9th, as there was no game and it would have
been inconvenient to send it back sixty miles to the fort, they returned
up the river, and for three days hunted along the banks and plains, and
reached the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having
walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through the snow in many
places knee deep, the moccasins too being nearly worn out: the only game
which they saw besides what is mentioned, was some growse on the
sandbars in the river.
Thursday 14. Last night the snow fell three inches deep; the day was,
however, fine. Four men were despatched with sleds and three horses to
bring up the meat which had been collected by the hunters. They returned
however, with intelligence that about twenty-one miles below the fort a
party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed to be Sioux,
rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and carried off two of the
horses, the third being given up by intercession of an Indian who seemed
to possess some authority over them; they also took away two of the
men's knifes, and a tomahawk, which last however they returned. We sent
up to the Mandans to inform them of it, and to know whether any of them
would join a party which intended to pursue the robbers in the morning.
About twelve o'clock two of their chiefs came down and said that all
their young men were out hunting, and that there were few guns in the
village. Several Indians however, armed some with bows and arrows, some
with spears and battle-axes, and two with fusils, accompanied captain
Lewis, who set out,
Friday 15, at sunrise with twenty-four men. The morning was fine and
cool, the thermometer being at 16° below 0. In the course of the day one
of the Mandan chiefs returned from captain Lewis's party, his eye-sight
having become so bad that he could not proceed. At this season of the
year the reflexion from the ice and snow is so intense as to occasion
almost total blindness. This complaint is very common, and the general
remedy is to sweat the part affected by holding the face over a hot
stone, and receiving the fumes from snow thrown on it. A large red fox
was killed to-day.
Saturday 16. The morning was warm, mercury at 32° above 0, the weather
cloudy: several of the Indians who went with captain Lewis returned, as
did also one of our men, whose feet had been frostbitten.
Sunday 17. The weather continued as yesterday, though in the afternoon
it became fair. Shotawhorora and his son came to see us, with about
thirty pounds of dried buffaloe meat and some tallow.
Monday 18. The morning was cloudy with some snow, but in the latter part
of the day it cleared up. Mr. M'Kenzie who had spent yesterday at the
fort now left us. Our stock of meat is exhausted, so that we must
confine ourselves to vegetable diet, at least till the return of the
party: for this, however, we are at no loss, since both on this and the
following day,
Tuesday 19, our blacksmith got large quantities of corn from the Indians
who came in great numbers to see us. The weather was fair and warm, the
wind from the south.
Wednesday, 20th. The day was delightfully fine; the mercury being at
sunrise 2° and in the course of the day 22° above 0, the wind southerly.
Kagohami came down to see us early: his village is afflicted by the
death of one of their eldest men, who from his account to us must have
seen one hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was dying, he requested
his grandchildren to dress him in his best robe when he was dead, and
then carry him on a hill and seat him on a stone, with his face down the
river towards their old villages, that he might go straight to his
brother who had passed before him to the ancient village under ground.
We have seen a number of Mandans who have lived to a great age; chiefly
however the men, whose robust exercises fortify the body, while the
laborious occupations of the women shorten their existence.
Thursday 21. We had a continuation of the same pleasant weather. Oheenaw
and Shahaka came down to see us, and mentioned that several of their
countrymen had gone to consult their medicine stone as to the prospects
of the following year. This medicine stone is the great oracle of the
Mandans, and whatever it announces is believed with implicit confidence.
Every spring, and on some occasions during the summer, a deputation
visits the sacred spot, where there is a thick porous stone twenty-feet
in circumference, with a smooth surface. Having reached the place the
ceremony of smoking to it is performed by the deputies, who alternately
take a whiff themselves and then present the pipe to the stone; after
this they retire to an adjoining wood for the night, during which it may
be safely presumed that all the embassy do not sleep; and in the morning
they read the destinies of the nation in the white marks on the stone,
which those who made them are at no loss to decypher. The Minnetarees
have a stone of a similar kind, which has the same qualities and the
same influence over the nation. Captain Lewis returned from his
excursion in pursuit of the Indians. On reaching the place where the
Sioux had stolen our horses, they found only one sled, and several pair
of moccasins which were recognised to be those of the Sioux. The party
then followed the Indian tracks till they reached two old lodges where
they slept, and the next morning pursued the course of the river till
they reached some Indian camps, where captain Clarke passed the night
some time ago, and which the Sioux had now set on fire, leaving a little
corn near the place in order to induce a belief that they were Ricaras.
From this point the Sioux tracks left the river abruptly and crossed
into the plains; but perceiving that there was no chance of overtaking
them, captain Lewis went down to the pen where captain Clarke had left
some meat, which he found untouched by the Indians, and then hunted in
the low grounds on the river, till he returned with about three thousand
pounds of meat, some drawn in a sled by fifteen of the men, and the rest
on horseback; having killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf.
Friday, 22nd. The morning was cloudy and a little snow fell, but in the
afternoon the weather became fair. We were visited by a number of
Indians, among whom was Shotawhorora, a chief of much consideration
among the Mandan, although by birth a Ricara.
Saturday, 23d. The day is warm and pleasant. Having worked industriously
yesterday and all this morning we were enabled to disengage one of the
periogues and haul it on shore, and also nearly to cut out the second.
The father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen, and whom we
had now cured, came to-day and carried him home in a sleigh.
Sunday, 24th. The weather is again fine. We succeeded in loosening the
second periogue and barge, though we found a leak in the latter. The
whole of the next day,
Monday, 25th, we were occupied in drawing up the boats on the bank: the
smallest one we carried there with no difficulty, but the barge was too
heavy for our elk-skin ropes which constantly broke. We were visited by
Orupsehara, or Black Moccasin, and several other chiefs, who brought us
presents of meat on the backs of their squaws, and one of the
Minnetarees requested and obtained permission for himself and his two
wives to remain all night in the fort. The day was exceedingly pleasant.
Tuesday 26. The weather is again fine. By great labour during the day we
got all the boats on the bank by sunset, an operation which attracted a
great number of Indians to the fort.
Wednesday 27. The weather continues fine. All of us employed in
preparing tools to build boats for our voyage, as we find that small
periogues will be much more convenient than the barge in ascending the
Missouri.
Thursday 28. The day is clear and pleasant. Sixteen men were sent out to
examine the country for trees suitable for boats, and were successful in
finding them. Two of the N.W. company traders arrived with letters; they
had likewise a root which is used for the cure of persons bitten by mad
dogs, snakes, and other venomous animals: it is found on high grounds
and the sides of hills, and the mode of using it is to scarify the
wound, and apply to it an inch or more of the chewed or pounded root,
which is to be renewed twice a day; the patient must not however chew or
swallow any of the root, as an inward application might be rather
injurious than beneficial.
Mr. Gravelines with two Frenchmen and two Indians arrived from the
Ricara nation, with letters from Mr. Anthony Tabeau. This last gentleman
informs us that the Ricaras express their determination to follow our
advice, and to remain at peace with the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom
they are desirous of visiting; they also wish to know whether these
nations would permit the Ricaras to settle near them, and form a league
against their common enemies the Sioux. On mentioning this to the
Mandans they agreed to it, observing that they always desired to
cultivate friendship with the Ricaras, and that the Ahnahaways and
Minnetarees have the same friendly views.
Mr. Gravelines states that the band of Tetons whom we had seen was well
disposed to us, owing to the influence of their chief the Black
Buffaloe; but that the three upper bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons,
and the Yanktons of the north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this
quarter, with a resolution to put to death every white man they
encounter. Moreover, that Mr. Cameron of St. Peter's has armed the Sioux
against the Chippeways, who have lately put to death three of his men.
The men who had stolen our horses we found to be all Sioux, who after
committing the outrage went to the Ricara villages, where they said that
they had hesitated about killing our men who were with the horses, but
that in future they would put to death any of us they could, as we were
bad medicines and deserved to be killed. The Ricaras were displeased at
their conduct and refused to give them any thing to eat, which is
deemed the greatest act of hostility short of actual violence.
Friday, March 1. The day is fine, and the whole party is engaged, some
in making ropes and periogues, others in burning coal, and making battle
axes to sell for corn.
Saturday 2. Mr. Laroche one of the N.W. company's traders has just
arrived with merchandise from the British establishments on the
Assiniboin. The day is fine, and the river begins to break up in some
places, the mercury being between 28° and 36° above 0, and the wind from
the N.E. We were visited by several Indians.
Sunday 3. The weather pleasant, the wind from the E. with clouds; in the
afternoon the clouds disappeared and the wind came from the N.W. The men
are all employed in preparing the boats; we are visited by Poscapsahe
and several other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the
river to-day.
Monday 4. A cloudy morning with N.W. wind, the latter part of the day
clear. We had again some Indian visitors with a small present of meat.
The Assiniboins, who a few days since visited the Mandans, returned, and
attempted to take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on them; a
circumstance which may occasion some disturbance between the two
nations.
Tuesday 5. About four o'clock in the morning there was a slight fall of
snow, but the day became clear and pleasant with the mercury 40° above
0. We sent down an Indian and a Frenchman to the Ricara villages with a
letter to Mr. Tabeau.
Wednesday 6. The day was cloudy and smoky in consequence of the burning
of the plains by the Minnetarees; they have set all the neighbouring
country on fire in order to obtain an early crop of grass which may
answer for the consumption of their horses, and also as an inducement
for the buffaloe and other game to visit it. The horses stolen two days
ago by the Assiniboins have been returned to the Minnetarees. Ohhaw
second chief of the lower Minnetaree village came to see us. The river
rose a little and overran the ice, so as to render the crossing
difficult.
Thursday, 7th. The day was somewhat cloudy, and colder than usual; the
wind from the northeast. Shotawhorora visited us with a sick child, to
whom some medicine was administered. There were also other Indians who
brought corn and dried buffaloe meat in exchange for blacksmith's work.
Friday 8. The day cold and fair with a high easterly wind: we were
visited by two Indians who gave us an account of the country and people
near the Rocky mountains where they had been.
Saturday 9. The morning cloudy and cool, the wind from the north. The
grand chief of the Minnetarees, who is called by the French Le Borgne,
from his having but one eye, came down for the first time to the fort.
He was received with much attention, two guns were fired in honour of
his arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said that
he had not received the presents which we had sent to him on his
arrival, we again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt, armbraces and the
usual presents on such occasions, with all which he was much pleased. In
the course of the conversation, the chief observed that some foolish
young men of his nation had told him there was a person among us who was
quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. We assured him
that it was true, and sent for York: the Borgne was very much surprised
at his appearance, examined him closely, and spit on his finger and
rubbed the skin in order to wash off the paint; nor was it until the
negro uncovered his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne
could be persuaded that he was not a painted white man.
Sunday 10. A cold windy day. Tetuckopinreha, chief of the Ahnahaways,
and the Minnetaree chief Ompsehara, passed the day with us, and the
former remained during the night. We had occasion to see an instance of
the summary justice of the Indians: a young Minnetaree had carried off
the daughter of Cagonomokshe, the Raven Man, second chief of the upper
village of the Mandans; the father went to the village and found his
daughter, whom he brought home, and took with him a horse belonging to
the offender: this reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of
the nation, as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse, which
from that time became the property of the injured party. The stealing of
young women is one of the most common offenses against the police of the
village, and the punishment of it always measured by the power or the
passions of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement is of
course more rigorously chastised. One of the wives of the Borgne
deserted him in favour of a man who had been her lover before the
marriage, and who after some time left her, and she was obliged to
return to her father's house. As soon as he heard it the Borgne walked
there and found her sitting near the fire: without noticing his wife, he
began to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the old men of
the village, who knowing his temper had followed in hopes of appeasing
him. He continued to smoke quietly with them, till rising to return, he
took his wife by the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single
stroke of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes: then
turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if any of her
relations wished to avenge her, they might always find him at his lodge;
but the fate of the woman had not sufficient interest to excite the
vengeance of the family. The caprice or the generosity of the same chief
gave a very different result to a similar incident which occurred some
time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young man, who not
being able to support her as she wished they both returned to the
village, and she presented herself before the husband, supplicating his
pardon for her conduct: the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment
when the youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief mildly
asked them if they still preserved their affection for each other; and
on their declaring that want, and not a change of affection had induced
them to return, he gave up his wife to her lover, with the liberal
present of three horses, and restored them both to his favour.
Monday 11. The weather was cloudy in the morning and a little snow fell,
the wind then shifted from southeast to northwest and the day became
fair. It snowed again in the evening, but the next day,
Tuesday 12, was fair with the wind from the northwest.
Wednesday 13. We had a fine day, and a southwest wind. Mr. M'Kenzie came
to see us, as did also many Indians who are so anxious for battle-axes
that our smiths have not a moment's leisure, and procure us an abundance
of corn. The river rose a little to-day, and so continued.
Thursday 14. The wind being from the west, and the day fine, the whole
party were employed in building boats and in shelling corn.
Friday 15. The day is clear, pleasant and warm. We take advantage of the
fine weather to hang all our Indian presents and other articles out to
dry before our departure.
Saturday 16. The weather is cloudy, the wind from the southeast. A Mr.
Garrow, a Frenchman who has resided a long time among the Ricaras and
Mandans, explained to us the mode in which they make their large beads,
an art which they are said to have derived from some prisoners of the
Snake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which is a secret even now
confined to a few among the Mandans and Ricaras: the process is as
follows: glass of different colours is first pounded fine and washed,
till each kind, which is kept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown
over it: some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of
sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to heat, and reduced
by water to the consistency of dough, is then rolled on the palm of the
hand, till it becomes of the thickness wanted for the hole in the bead;
these sticks of clay are placed upright, each on a little pedestal or
ball of the same material about an ounce in weight, and distributed over
a small earthen platter, which is laid on the fire for a few minutes,
when they are taken off to cool: with a little paddle or shovel three or
four inches long and sharpened at the end of the handle, the wet pounded
glass is placed in the palm of the hand: the beads are made of an oblong
form wrapped in a cylindrical form round the stick of clay which is
laid crosswise over it, and gently rolled backwards and forwards till
it becomes perfectly smooth. If it be desired to introduce any other
colour, the surface of the bead is perforated with the pointed end of
the paddle and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that colour: the
sticks with the string of beads are then replaced on their pedestals,
and the platter deposited on burning coals or hot embers: over the
platter an earthern pot containing about three gallons, with a mouth
large enough to cover the platter, is reversed, being completely closed
except a small aperture at the top, through which are watched the bead:
a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough or paste is
placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and afterwards set on
fire: the manufacturer then looks through the small hole in the pot,
till he sees the beads assume a deep red colour, to which succeeds a
paler or whitish red, or they become pointed at the upper extremity; on
which the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually: at
length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the hollow of
them picked out with an awl or needle, and it is then fit for use. The
beads thus formed are in great demand among the Indians, and used as
pendants to their ears and hair, and are sometimes worn round the neck.
Sunday 17. A windy but clear and pleasant day, the river rising a little
and open in several places. Our Minnetaree interpreter Chaboneau, whom
we intended taking with us to the Pacific, had some days ago been worked
upon by the British traders, and appeared unwilling to accompany us,
except on certain terms; such as his not being subject to our orders,
and do duty, or to return whenever he chose. As we saw clearly the
source of his hesitation, and knew that it was intended as an obstacle
to our views, we told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we
could dispense with his services: he had accordingly left us with some
displeasure. Since then he had made an advance towards joining us, which
we showed no anxiety to meet; but this morning he sent an apology for
his improper conduct, and agreed to go with us and perform the same
duties as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into our
service.
Monday 18. The weather was cold and cloudy, the wind from the north. We
were engaged in packing up the goods into eight divisions, so as to
preserve a portion of each in case of accident. We hear that the Sioux
have lately attacked a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the
Assiniboin river, and killed fifty of them.
Tuesday 19. Some snow fell last night, and this morning was cold, windy,
and cloudy. Shahaka and Kagohami came down to see us, as did another
Indian with a sick child, to whom we gave some medicine. There appears
to be an approaching war, as two parties have already gone from the
Minnetarees, and a third is preparing.
Wednesday 20. The morning was cold and cloudy, the wind high from the
north, but the afternoon was pleasant. The canoes being finished, four
of them were carried down to the river, at the distance of a mile and a
half from where they were constructed.
Thursday 20. The remaining periogues were hauled to the same place, and
all the men except three, who were left to watch them returned to the
fort. On his way down, which was about six miles, captain Clarke passed
along the points of the high hills, where he saw large quantities of
pumicestone on the foot, sides and tops of the hills, which had every
appearance of having been at some period on fire. He collected specimens
of the stone itself, the pumicestone, and the hard earth; and on being
put into the furnace the hard earth melted and glazed, the pumicestone
melted, and the hardstone became a pumicestone glazed.
CHAPTER VII.
Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice--An enumeration
of the presents sent to the president of the United States--The
party are visited by a Ricara chief--They leave their encampment,
and proceed on their journey--description of the Little
Missouri--Some account of the Assiniboins--Their mode of burying
the dead--Whiteearth river described--Great quantity of salt
discovered on its banks--Yellowstone river described--A particular
account of the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and
Missouri--Description of the Missouri, the surrounding country, and
of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.
Friday 22. This was a clear pleasant day, with the wind from the S.S.W.
We were visited by the second chief of the Minnetarees, to whom we gave
a medal and some presents, accompanied by a speech. Mr. M'Kenzie and Mr.
Laroche also came to see us. They all took their leave next day.
Saturday 23. Soon after their departure, a brother of the Borgne with
other Indians came to the fort. The weather was fine, but in the evening
we had the first rain that has fallen during the winter.
Sunday 24. The morning cloudy, but the afternoon fair, the wind from the
N.E. We are employed in preparing for our journey. This evening swans
and wild geese flew towards the N.E.
Monday 25. A fine day, the wind S.W. The river rose nine inches, and the
ice began breaking away in several places, so as to endanger our canoes
which we are hauling down to the fort.
Tuesday 26. The river rose only half an inch, and being choaked up with
ice near the fort, did not begin to run till towards evening. This day
is clear and pleasant.
Wednesday 27. The wind is still high from the S.W.: the ice which is
ocasionally stopped for a few hours is then thrown over shallow
sandbars when the river runs. We had all our canoes brought down, and
were obliged to cauk and pitch very attentively the cracks so common in
cottonwood.
Thursday 28. The day is fair. Some obstacle above has prevented the ice
from running. Our canoes are now nearly ready, and we expect to set out
as soon as the river is sufficiently clear to permit us to pass.
Friday 29. The weather clear, and the wind from N.W. The obstruction
above gave way this morning, and the ice came down in great quantities;
the river having fallen eleven inches in the course of the last
twenty-four hours. We have had few Indians at the fort for the last
three or four days, as they are now busy in catching the floating
buffaloe. Every spring as the river is breaking up the surrounding
plains are set on fire, and the buffaloe tempted to cross the river in
search of the fresh grass which immediately succeeds to the burning: on
their way they are often insulated on a large cake or mass of ice, which
floats down the river: the Indians now select the most favourable points
for attack, and as the buffaloe approaches dart with astonishing agility
across the trembling ice, sometimes pressing lightly a cake of not more
than two feet square: the animal is of course unsteady, and his
footsteps insecure on this new element, so that he can make but little
resistance, and the hunter, who has given him his death wound, paddles
his icy boat to the shore and secures his prey.
Saturday 30. The day was clear and pleasant, the wind N.W. and the ice
running in great quantities. All our Indian presents were again exposed
to the air, and the barge made ready to descend the Missouri.
Monday 31. Early this morning it rained, and the weather continued
cloudy during the day; the river rose nine inches, the ice not running
so much as yesterday. Several flocks of geese and ducks fly up the
river.
Monday, April 1, 1805. This morning there was a thunder storm,
accompanied with large hail, to which succeeded rain for about half an
hour. We availed ourselves of this interval to get all the boats in the
water. At four o'clock P.M. it began to rain a second time, and
continued till twelve at night. With the exception of a few drops at two
or three different times, this is the first rain we have had since the
15th of October last.
Tuesday 2. The wind was high last night and this morning from N.W. and
the weather continued cloudy. The Mandans killed yesterday twenty-one
elk, about fifteen miles below, but they were so poor as to be scarcely
fit for use.
Wednesday 3. The weather is pleasant, though there was a white frost and
some ice on the edge of the water. We were all engaged in packing up our
baggage and merchandize.
Thursday 4. The day is clear and pleasant, though the wind is high from
N.W. We now packed up in different boxes a variety of articles for the
president, which we shall send in the barge. They consisted of a stuffed
male and female antelope with their skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels
from the Rocky mountains, the skeleton of the prairie wolf, those of the
white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau, or burrowing dog of the
prairie, with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white
weasel, and the skin of the louservia, the horns of the mountain ram, or
big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of the
black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox,
white hare, martin, yellow bear obtained from the Sioux; also, a number
of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffaloe robe,
representing a battle fought about eight years since between the Sioux
and Ricaras against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants
are represented on horseback. It has of late years excited much
discussion to ascertain the period when the art of painting was first
discovered: how hopeless all researches of this kind are, is evident
from the foregoing fact. It is indebted for its origin to one of the
strongest passions of the human heart; a wish to preserve the features
of a departed friend, or the memory of some glorious exploit: this
inherits equally the bosoms of all men either civilized or savage. Such
sketches, rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the predominant
character of the savage nations. If they are peaceable and inoffensive,
the drawings usually consist of local scenery, and their favourite
diversions. If the band are rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks,
scalpingknives, bows, arrows, and all the engines of destruction. A
Mandan bow and quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed and an
ear of Mandan corn; to these were added a box of plants, another of
insects, and three cases containing a burrowing squirrel; a prairie hen,
and four magpies, all alive.
Friday, 5th. Fair and pleasant, but the wind high from the northwest: we
were visited by a number of Mandans, and are occupied in loading our
boats in order to proceed on our journey.
Saturday, 6th. Another fine day with a gentle breeze from the south. The
Mandans continue to come to the fort; and in the course of the day
informed us of the arrival of a party of Ricaras on the other side of
the river. We sent our interpreter to inquire into their reason for
coming; and in the morning,
Sunday, 7th, he returned with a Ricara chief and three of his nation.
The chief, whose name is Kagohweto, or Brave Raven, brought a letter
from Mr. Tabeau, mentioning the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras
to visit the president, and requesting permission for himself and four
men to join our boat when it descends; to which we consented, as it will
then be manned with fifteen hands and be able to defend itself against
the Sioux. After presenting the letter, he told us that he was sent with
ten warriors by his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans
and Minnetarees, whom they wished to join; that he considered all the
neighboring nations friendly except the Sioux, whose persecution they
would no longer withstand, and whom they hoped to repel by uniting with
the tribes in this quarter: he added that the Ricaras intended to follow
our advice and live in peace with all nations, and requested that we
would speak in their favour to the Assiniboin Indians. This we willingly
promised to do, and assured them that their great father would protect
them and no longer suffer the Sioux to have good guns, or to injure his
dutiful children. We then gave him a small medal, a certificate of his
good conduct, a carrot of tobacco, and some wampum, with which he
departed for the Mandan village well satisfied with his reception.
Having made all our arrangements, we left the fort about five o'clock in
the afternoon. The party now consisted of thirty-two persons. Besides
ourselves were serjeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick Gass:
the privates were William Bratton, John Colter, John Collins, Peter
Cruzatte, Robert Frazier, Reuben Fields, Joseph Fields, George Gibson,
Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall, Thomas P. Howard, Baptiste Lapage, Francis
Labiche, Hugh M'Neal, John Potts, John Shields, George Shannon, John B.
Thompson, William Werner, Alexander Willard, Richard Windsor, Joseph
Whitehouse, Peter Wiser, and captain Clarke's black servant York. The
two interpreters, were George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife
of Chaboneau also accompanied us with her young child, and we hope may
be useful as an interpreter among the Snake Indians. She was herself one
of that tribe, but having been taken in war by the Minnetarees, by whom
she was sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterwards
married her. One of the Mandans likewise embarked with us, in order to
go to the Snake Indians and obtain a peace with them for his countrymen.
All this party with the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two
large periogues. We left the fort with fair pleasant weather though the
northwest wind was high, and after making about four miles encamped on
the north side of the Missouri, nearly opposite the first Mandan
village. At the same time that we took our departure, our barge manned
with seven soldiers, two Frenchmen, and Mr. Gravelines as pilot, sailed
for the United States loaded with our presents and despatches.
Monday, 8th. The day was clear and cool, the wind from the northwest, so
that we travelled slowly. After breakfasting at the second Mandan
village we passed the Mahaha at the mouth of Knife river, a handsome
stream about eighty yards wide. Beyond this we reached the island which
captain Clarke had visited on the 30th October. This island has timber
as well as the lowlands on the north, but its distance from the water
had prevented our encamping there during the winter. From the head of
this island we made three and a half miles to a point of wood on the
north, passing a high bluff on the south, and having come about fourteen
miles. In the course of the day one of our boats filled and was near
sinking; we however saved her with the loss of a little biscuit and
powder.
Tuesday, April 9. We set off as soon as it was light, and proceeded five
miles to breakfast, passing a low ground on the south, covered with
groves of cottonwood timber. At the distance of six miles, we reached on
the north a hunting camp of Minnetarees consisting of thirty lodges, and
built in the usual form of earth and timber. Two miles and a quarter
farther, comes in on the same side Miry creek, a small stream about ten
yards wide, which, rising in some lakes near the Mouse river, passes
through beautiful level fertile plains without timber in a direction
nearly southwest; the banks near its entrance being steep, and rugged on
both sides of the Missouri. Three miles above this creek we came to a
hunting party of Minnetarees, who had prepared a park or inclosure and
were waiting the return of the antelope: this animal, which in the
autumn retires for food and shelter to the Black mountains during the
winter, recross the river at this season of the year, and spread
themselves through the plains on the north of the Missouri. We halted
and smoked a short time with them, and then proceeded on through
handsome plains on each side of the river, and encamped at the distance
of twenty-three and a half miles on the north side: the day was clear
and pleasant, the wind high from the south, but afterwards changed to a
western steady breeze. The bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards of
one hundred feet high, composed of a mixture of yellow clay and sand,
with many horizontal strata of carbonated wood resembling pit-coal, from
one to five feet in depth, and scattered through the bluff at different
elevations, some as high as eighty feet above the water: the hills along
the river are broken, and present every appearance of having been burned
at some former period; great quantities of pumicestone and lava or
rather earth, which seems to have been boiled and then hardened by
exposure, being seen in many parts of these hills where they are broken
and washed down into gullies by the rain and melting snow. A great
number of brants pass up the river: there are some of them perfectly
white, except the large feathers of the first and second joint of the
wing which are black, though in every other characteristic they resemble
common gray brant: we also saw but could not procure an animal that
burrows in the ground, and similar in every respect to the burrowing
squirrel, except that it is only one third of its size. This may be the
animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and prairies; they
resemble the labours of the salamander in the sand hills of South
Carolina and Georgia, and like him, the animals rarely come above
ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of
loose ground which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though
no aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown: on removing
gently the earth, you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle
of about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser though
still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for dinner the squaw
went out, and after penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the
mice, near some drift wood, brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes,
which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers; the root is white, of
an ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of the size
of a man's finger, and two, four, and sometimes six roots are attached
to a single stalk. Its flavour as well as the stalk which issues from it
resemble those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is
much larger. A large beaver was caught in a trap last night, and the
musquitoes begin to trouble us.
Wednesday 10. We again set off early with clear pleasant weather, and
halted about ten for breakfast, above a sandbank which was falling in,
and near a small willow island. On both sides of the Missouri, after
ascending the hills near the water, one fertile unbroken plain extends
itself as far as the eye can reach, without a solitary tree or shrub,
except in moist situations or in the steep declivities of hills where
they are sheltered from the ravages of fire. At the distance of twelve
miles we reached the lower point of a bluff on the south; which is in
some parts on fire and throws out quantities of smoke which has a strong
sulphurous smell, the coal and other appearances in the bluffs being
like those described yesterday: at one o'clock we overtook three
Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before us, in order to make the
first attempt on this river of hunting beaver, which they do by means of
traps: their efforts promise to be successful for they have already
caught twelve which are finer than any we have ever seen: they mean to
accompany us as far as the Yellowstone river in order to obtain our
protection against the Assiniboins who might attack them. In the evening
we encamped on a willow point to the south opposite to a bluff, above
which a small creek falls in, and just above a remarkable bend in the
river to the southwest, which we called the Little Basin. The low
grounds which we passed to-day possess more timber than is usual, and
are wider: the current is moderate, at least not greater than that of
the Ohio in high tides; the banks too fall in but little; so that the
navigation comparatively with that lower down the Missouri is safe and
easy. We were enabled to make eighteen and a half miles: we saw the
track of a large white bear, there were also a herd of antelopes in the
plains; the geese and swan are now feeding in considerable quantities on
the young grass in the low prairies; we shot a prairie hen, and a bald
eagle of which there were many nests in the tall cottonwood trees; but
could procure neither of two elk which were in the plain. Our old
companions the musquitoes have renewed their visit, and gave us much
uneasiness.
Thursday, 11th. We set out at daylight, and after passing bare and
barren hills on the south, and a plain covered with timber on the north,
breakfasted at five miles distance: here we were regaled with a deer
brought in by the hunters, which was very acceptable as we had been for
several days without fresh meat; the country between this and fort
Mandan being so frequently disturbed by hunters that the game has become
scarce. We then proceeded with a gentle breeze from the south which
carried the periogues on very well; the day was however so warm that
several of the men worked with no clothes except round the waist, which
is the less inconvenient as we are obliged to wade in some places owing
to the shallowness of the river. At seven miles we reached a large
sandbar making out from the north. We again stopped for dinner, after
which we went on to a small plain on the north covered with cottonwood
where we encamped, having made nineteen miles. The country around is
much the same as that we passed yesterday: on the sides of the hills,
and even on the banks of the rivers, as well as on the sandbars, is a
white substance which appears in considerable quantities on the surface
of the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with glauber
salts: many of the streams which come from the foot of the hills, are so
strongly impregnated with this substance, that the water has an
unpleasant taste and a purgative effect. A beaver was caught last night
by one of the Frenchmen; we killed two geese, and saw some cranes, the
largest bird of that kind common to the Missouri and Mississippi, and
perfectly white except the large feathers on the two first joints of the
wing which are black. Under a bluff opposite to our encampment we
discovered some Indians with horses, whom we supposed were Minnetarees,
but the width of the river prevented our speaking to them.
Friday, 12th. We set off early and passed a high range of hills on the
south side, our periogues being obliged to go over to the south in order
to avoid a sandbank which was rapidly falling in. At six miles we came
to at the lower side of the entrance of the Little Missouri, where we
remained during the day for the purpose of making celestial
observations. This river empties itself on the south side of the
Missouri, one thousand six hundred and ninety-three miles from its
confluence with the Mississippi. It rises to the west of the Black
mountains, across the northern extremity of which it finds a narrow
rapid passage along high perpendicular banks, then seeks the Missouri in
a northeastern direction, through a broken country with highlands bare
of timber, and the low grounds particularly supplied with cottonwood,
elm, small ash, box, alder, and an undergrowth of willow, redwood,
sometimes called red or swamp-willow, the redberry and chokecherry. In
its course it passes near the northwest side of the Turtle mountain,
which is said to be only twelve or fifteen miles from its mouth in a
straight line a little to the south of west, so that both the Little
Missouri and Knife river have been laid down too far southwest. It
enters the Missouri with a bold current, and is one hundred and
thirty-four yards wide, but its greatest depth is two feet and a half,
and this joined to its rapidity and its sandbars, make the navigation
difficult except for canoes, which may ascend it for a considerable
distance. At the mouth, and as far as we could discern from the hills
between the two rivers about three miles from their junction, the
country is much broken, the soil consisting of a deep rich dark coloured
loam, intermixed with a small proportion of fine sand and covered
generally with a short grass resembling blue grass. In its colour, the
nature of its bed, and its general appearance, it resembles so much the
Missouri as to induce a belief that the countries they water are similar
in point of soil. From the Mandan villages to this place the country is
hilly and irregular, with the same appearance of glauber salts and
carbonated wood, the low grounds smooth, sandy, and partially covered
with cottonwood and small ash; at some distance back there are extensive
plains of a good soil, but without timber or water.
We found great quantities of small onions which grow single, the bulb of
an oval form, white, about the size of a bullet with a leaf resembling
that of the chive. On the side of a neighbouring hill, there is a
species of dwarf cedar: it spreads its limbs along the surface of the
earth, which it almost conceals by its closeness and thickness, and is
sometimes covered by it, having always a number of roots on the under
side, while on the upper are a quantity of shoots which with their
leaves seldom rise higher than six or eight inches; it is an evergreen,
its leaf more delicate than that of the common cedar, though the taste
and smell is the same.
The country around has been so recently hunted that the game are
extremely shy, so that a white rabbit, two beaver, a deer, and a bald
eagle were all that we could procure. The weather had been clear, warm,
and pleasant in the morning, but about three we had a squall of high
wind and rain with some thunder, which lasted till after sunset when it
again cleared off.
Saturday 13. We set out at sunrise, and at nine o'clock having the wind
in our favour went on rapidly past a timbered low ground on the south,
and a creek on the north at the distance of nine miles, which we called
Onion creek, from the quantity of that plant which grows in the plains
near it: this creek is about sixteen yards wide at a mile and a half
above its mouth, it discharges more water than is usual for creeks of
that size in this country, but the whole plain which it waters is
totally destitute of timber. The Missouri itself widens very remarkably
just above the junction with the Little Missouri: immediately at the
entrance of the latter, it is not more than two hundred yards wide, and
so shallow that it may be passed in canoes with setting poles, while a
few miles above it is upwards of a mile in width: ten miles beyond Onion
creek we came to another, discharging itself on the north in the centre
of a deep bend: on ascending it for about a mile and a half, we found it
to be the discharge of a pond or small lake, which seemed to have been
once the bed of the Missouri: near this lake were the remains of
forty-three temporary lodges which seem to belong to the Assiniboins,
who are now on the river of the same name. A great number of swan and
geese were also in it, and from this circumstance we named the creek
Goose creek, and the lake by the same name: these geese we observe do
not build their nests on the ground or in sandbars, but in the tops of
lofty cottonwood trees: we saw some elk and buffaloe to-day but at too
great a distance to obtain any of them, though a number of the carcases
of the latter animal are strewed along the shores, having fallen through
the ice, and been swept along when the river broke up. More bald eagles
are seen on this part of the Missouri than we have previously met with;
the small or common hawk, common in most parts of the United States, are
also found here: great quantities of geese are feeding in the prairies,
and one flock of white brant or goose with black wings, and some gray
brant with them pass up river, and from their flight they seem to
proceed much farther to the northwest. We killed two antelopes which
were very lean, and caught last night two beaver: the French hunters who
had procured seven, thinking the neighborhood of the Little Missouri a
convenient hunting ground for that animal, remained behind there: in
the evening we encamped in a beautiful plain on the north thirty feet
above the river, having made twenty-two and a half miles.
Sunday 14. We set off early with pleasant and fair weather: a dog joined
us, which we suppose had strayed from the Assiniboin camp on the lake.
At two and a half miles we passed timbered low grounds and a small
creek: in these low grounds are several uninhabited lodges built with
the boughs of the elm, and the remains of two recent encampments, which
from the hoops of small kegs found in them we judged could belong to
Assiniboins only, as they are the only Missouri Indians who use
spirituous liquors: of these they are so passionately fond that it forms
their chief inducement to visit the British on the Assiniboin, to whom
they barter for kegs of rum their dried and pounded meat, their grease,
and the skins of large and small wolves, and small foxes. The dangerous
exchange is transported to their camps with their friends and relations,
and soon exhausted in brutal intoxication: so far from considering
drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children are permitted and
invited to share in these excesses with their husbands and fathers, who
boast how often their skill and industry as hunters has supplied them
with the means of intoxication: in this, as in their other habits and
customs, they resemble the Sioux from whom they are descended: the trade
with the Assiniboins and Knistenaux is encouraged by the British,
because it procures provision for their _engages_ on their return from
Rainy lake to the English river and the Athabasky country where they
winter; these men being obliged during that voyage to pass rapidly
through a country but scantily supplied with game. We halted for dinner
near a large village of burrowing squirrels, who we observe generally
select a southeasterly exposure, though they are sometimes found in the
plains. At ten and a quarter miles we came to the lower point of an
island, which from the day of our arrival there we called Sunday
island: here the river washes the bases of the hills on both sides and
above the island, which with its sandbar extends a mile and a half: two
small creeks fall in from the south; the uppermost of these, which is
the largest, we called Chaboneau's creek, after our interpreter who once
encamped on it several weeks with a party of Indians. Beyond this no
white man had ever been except two Frenchmen, one of whom Lapage is with
us, and who having lost their way straggled a few miles further, though
to what point we could not ascertain: about a mile and a half beyond
this island we encamped on a point of woodland on the north, having made
in all fourteen miles.
The Assiniboins have so recently left the river that game is scarce and
shy. One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffaloe too
was killed, and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two
white bear were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. The
river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary
current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts
containing timber, the upland extremely broken, without wood, and in
some places seem as if they had slipped down in masses of several acres
in surface. The mineral appearances of salts, coal, and sulphur, with
the burnt hill and pumicestone continue, and a bituminous water about
the colour of strong lye, with the taste of glauber salts and a slight
tincture of allum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number
of magpies who build their nest much like those of the blackbird in
trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves and grass, open at top: the
egg is of a bluish brown color, freckled with reddish brown spots. We
also killed a large hooting owl resembling that of the United States,
except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills are
many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell and appearance the sage,
hysop, wormwood, southern wood, juniper and dwarf cedar; a plant also
about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and
taste, and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth,
soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavour, which is a favourite food
of the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it.
Monday 15. We proceeded under a fine breeze from the south, and clear
pleasant weather. At seven miles we reached the lower point of an island
in a bend to the south, which is two miles in length. Captain Clarke,
who went about nine miles northward from the river reached the high
grounds, which, like those we have seen, are level plains without
timber; here he observed a number of drains, which descending from the
hills pursue a northeast course, and probably empty into the Mouse
river, a branch of the Assiniboin, which from Indian accounts approaches
very near to the Missouri at this place. Like all the rivulets of this
neighbourhood these drains were so strongly impregnated with mineral
salts that they are not fit to drink. He saw also the remains of several
camps of Assiniboins; the low grounds on both sides of the river are
extensive, rich, and level. In a little pond on the north, we heard for
the first time this season the croaking of frogs, which exactly
resembles that of the small frogs in the United States: there are also
in these plains great quantities of geese, and many of the grouse, or
prairie hen, as they are called by the N.W. company traders; the note of
the male, as far as words can represent it, is cook, cook, cook, coo,
coo, coo, the first part of which both male and female use when flying;
the male too drums with his wings when he flies in the same way, though
not so loud as the pheasant; they appear to be mating. Some deer, elk,
and goats were in the low grounds, and buffaloe on the sand beaches, but
they were uncommonly shy; we also saw a black bear, and two white ones.
At fifteen miles we passed on the north side a small creek twenty yards
wide, which we called Goatpen creek, from a park or enclosure for the
purpose of catching that animal, which those who went up the creek
found, and which we presume to have been left by the Assiniboins. Its
water is impregnated with mineral salts, and the country through which
it flows consists of wide and very fertile plains, but without any
trees. We encamped at the distance of twenty-three miles, on a sandpoint
to the south; we passed in the evening a rock in the middle of the
river, the channel of which a little above our camp, is confined within
eighty yards.
Tuesday 16. The morning was clear, the wind light from the S.E. The
country presents the same appearance of low plains and meadows on the
river, bounded a few miles back by broken hills, which end in high level
fertile lands, the quantity of timber is however increasing. The
appearance of minerals continues as usual, and to-day we found several
stones which seemed to have been wood, first carbonated and then
petrified by the water of the Missouri, which has the same effect on
many vegetable substances. There is indeed reason to believe that the
strata of coal in the hills cause the fire and appearances which they
exhibit of being burned. Whenever these marks present themselves in the
bluffs on the river, the coal is seldom seen, and when found in the
neighborhood of the strata of burnt earth, the coal with the sand and
sulphurous matter usually accompanying it, is precisely at the same
height and nearly of the same thickness with those strata. We passed
three small creeks or rather runs, which rise in the hills to the north.
Numbers of geese, and few ducks chiefly of the mallard and bluewinged
teal, many buffaloe, elk and deer were also observed, and in the
timbered low grounds this morning we were surprised to observe a great
quantity of old hornets' nests: we encamped in a point of woods on the
south, having come eighteen miles, though the circuits which we were
obliged to make around sandbars very much increased the real distance.
Wednesday, April 17. We set off early, the weather being fine, and the
wind so favourable as to enable us to sail the greater part of the
course. At ten and three quarter miles we passed a creek ten yards wide
on the south; at eighteen miles a little run on the north, and at night
encamped in a woody point on the south. We had travelled twenty-six
miles through a country similar to that of yesterday, except that there
were greater appearances of burnt hills, furnishing large quantities of
lava and pumicestone, of the last of which we observe some pieces
floating down the river, as we had previously done, as low as the Little
Missouri. In all the copses of wood are the remains of the Assiniboin
encampments; around us are great quantities of game, such as herds of
buffaloe, elk, antelopes, some deer and wolves, the tracks of bears, a
curlue was also seen, and we obtained three beaver, the flesh of which
is more relished by the men than any other food which we have. Just
before we encamped we saw some tracks of Indians, who had passed
twenty-four hours before, and left four rafts, and whom we supposed to
be a band of Assiniboins on their return from war against the Indians on
the Rocky mountains.
Thursday 18. We had again a pleasant day, and proceeded on with a
westerly wind, which however changed to N.W. and blew so hard that we
were obliged to stop at one o'clock and remain four hours, when it
abated and we then continued our course.
We encamped about dark on a woody bank having made thirteen miles. The
country presented the usual variety of highlands interspersed with rich
plains. In one of these we observed a species of pea bearing a yellow
flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the
common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the root is
perennial. On the rose bushes we also saw a quantity of the hair of the
buffaloe, which had become perfectly white by exposure, and resembled
the wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more soft and
silky. A buffaloe which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, and
that which remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, and would
have furnished five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt an
excellent cloth may be made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an
elk, and some geese. The river has been crooked all day and bearing
towards the south.
On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, which
seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of the day
an elk, three geese and a beaver. The beaver on this part of the
Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is
more abundant and of a darker colour than any we had hitherto seen:
their favourite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow,
as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them,
and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.
The next day, Friday, 19th, the wind was so high from northwest that we
could not proceed, but being less violent on
Saturday, 20th, we set off about seven o'clock, and had nearly lost one
of the canoes as we left the shore, by the falling in of a large part of
the bank. The wind too became again so strong that we could scarcely
make one mile an hour, and the sudden squalls so dangerous to the small
boats, that we stopped for the night among some willows on the north,
not being able to advance more than six and a half miles. In walking
through the neighbouring plains we found a fine fertile soil covered
with cottonwood, some box, alder, ash, red elm, and an undergrowth of
willow, rosebushes, honeysuckle, red willow, gooseberry, currant, and
serviceberries, and along the foot of the hills great quantities of
hysop. Our hunters procured elk and deer which are now lean, and six
beaver which are fatter and more palatable. Along the plain there were
also some Indian camps; near one of these was a scaffold about seven
feet high, on which were two sleds with their harness, and under it the
body of a female, carefully wrapped in several dressed buffaloe skins;
near it lay a bag made of buffaloe skin, containing a pair of moccasins,
some red and blue paint, beaver's nails, scrapers for dressing hides,
some dried roots, several plaits of sweet grass, and a small quantity of
Mandan tobacco. These things as well as the body itself had probably
fallen down by accident, as the custom is to place them on the scaffold.
At a little distance was the body of a dog not yet decayed, who had met
this reward for having dragged thus far in the sled the corpse of his
mistress, to whom according to the Indian usage he had been sacrificed.
Sunday, 21st. Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning
the weather cold, but clear and pleasant: in the course of the day
however it became cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same
description as within the few last days. We saw immense quantities of
buffaloe, elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swan and ducks, out of
which we procured three deer, four buffaloe calves, which last are equal
in flavour to the most delicious veal; also two beaver, and an otter. We
passed one large and two small creeks on the south side, and reached at
sixteen miles the mouth of Whiteearth river, coming in from the north.
This river before it reaches the low grounds near the Missouri, is a
fine bold stream sixty yards wide, and is deep and navigable, but it is
so much choked up at the entrance by the mud of the Missouri, that its
mouth is not more than ten yards wide. Its course, as far as we could
discern from the neighbouring hills, is nearly due north, passing
through a beautiful and fertile valley, though without a tree or bush of
any description. Half a mile beyond this river we encamped on the same
side below a point of highland, which from its appearance we call Cut
bluff.
Monday, 22d. The day clear and cold: we passed a high bluff on the north
and plains on the south, in which were large herds of buffaloe, till
breakfast, when the wind became so strong ahead that we proceeded with
difficulty even with the aid of the towline. Some of the party now
walked across to the Whiteearth river, which here at the distance of
four miles from its mouth approaches very near to the Missouri. It
contains more water than is usual in streams of the same size at this
season, with steep banks about ten or twelve feet high, and the water is
much clearer than that of the Missouri; the salts which have been
mentioned as common on the Missouri, are here so abundant that in many
places the ground appears perfectly white, and from this circumstance it
may have derived its name; it waters an open country and is navigable
almost to its source, which is not far from the Saskaskawan, and judging
from its size and course, it is probable that it extends as far north as
the fiftieth degree of latitude. After much delay in consequence of the
high wind, we succeeded in making eleven miles, and encamped in a low
ground on the south covered with cottonwood and rabbitberries. The hills
of the Missouri near this place exhibit large irregular broken masses of
rocks and stones, some of which, although two hundred feet above the
water, seem at some remote period to have been subject to its influence,
being apparently worn smooth by the agitation of the water. These rocks
and stones consist of white and gray granite, a brittle black rock,
flint, limestone, freestone, some small specimens of an excellent
pebble, and occasionally broken stratas of a black coloured stone like
petrified wood, which make good whetstones. The usual appearances of
coal, or carbonated wood, and pumicestone still continue, the coal being
of a better quality and when burnt affords a hot and lasting fire,
emitting very little smoke or flame. There are huge herds of deer, elk,
buffaloe, and antelopes in view of us: the buffaloe are not so shy as
the rest, for they suffer us to approach within one hundred yards before
they run, and then stop and resume their pasture at a very short
distance. The wolves to-day pursued a herd of them, and at length caught
a calf that was unable to keep up with the rest; the mothers on these
occasions defending their young as long as they can retreat as fast as
the herd, but seldom returning any distance to seek for them.
Tuesday 23. A clear and pleasant morning, but at nine o'clock the wind
became so high that the boats were in danger of upsetting; we therefore
were forced to stop at a place of safety till about five in the
afternoon, when the wind being lower we proceeded and encamped on the
north at the distance of thirteen and a half miles: the party on shore
brought us a buffaloe calf and three blacktailed deer: the sand on the
river has the same appearances as usual, except that the quantity of
wood increases.
Wednesday 24. The wind blew so high during the whole day that we were
unable to move; such indeed was its violence, that although we were
sheltered by high timber the waves wet many articles in the boats: the
hunters went out and returned with four deer, two elk, and some young
wolves of the small kind. The party are very much afflicted with sore
eyes, which we presume are occasioned by the vast quantities of sand
which are driven from the sandbars in such clouds as often to hide from
us the view of the opposite bank. The particles of this sand are so fine
and light that it floats for miles in the air like a column of thick
smoke, and is so penetrating that nothing can be kept free from it, and
we are compelled to eat, drink, and breathe it very copiously. To the
same cause we attribute the disorder of one of our watches, although her
cases are double and tight; since without any defect in its works, that
we can discover, it will not run for more than a few minutes without
stopping.
Thursday 25. The wind moderated this morning, but was still high; we
therefore set out early, the weather being so cold that the water froze
on the oars as we rowed, and about ten o'clock the wind increased so
much that we were obliged to stop. This detention from the wind and the
reports from our hunters of the crookedness of the river, induced us to
believe that we were at no great distance from the Yellowstone river. In
order therefore to prevent delay as much as possible, captain Lewis
determined to go on by land in search of that river, and make the
necessary observations, so as to be enabled to proceed on immediately
after the boats should join him; he therefore landed about eleven
o'clock on the south side, accompanied by four men; the boats were
prevented from going until five in the afternoon, when they went on a
few miles further and encamped for the night at the distance of fourteen
and a half miles.
Friday 26. We continued our voyage in the morning and by twelve o'clock
encamped at eight miles distance, at the junction of the Missouri and
Yellowstone rivers; where we were soon joined by captain Lewis.
On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the
hills, which he ascended at the distance of eight miles; from these the
wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread
themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the
banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and
animated by vast herds of buffaloe, deer, elk, and antelope. The
confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the
Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant to the south. He therefore
descended the hills and encamped on the bank of the river, having killed
as he crossed the plain four buffaloes; the deer alone are shy and
retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffaloe suffered him to
approach them without alarm, and often followed him quietly for some
distance. This morning he sent a man up the river to examine it, while
he proceeded down to the junction: the ground on the lower side of the
Yellowstone near its mouth, is flat, and for about a mile seems to be
subject to inundation, while that at the point or junction, as well as
on the opposite side of the Missouri, is at the usual height of ten or
eighteen feet above the water, and therefore not overflown. There is
more timber in the neighbourhood of this place, and on the Missouri, as
far below as the Whiteearth river, than on any other part of the
Missouri on this side of the Chayenne: the timber consists principally
of cottonwood, with some small elm, ash, and box alder. On the sandbars
and along the margin of the river grows the small-leafed willow; in the
low grounds adjoining are scattered rosebushes three or four feet high,
the redberry, serviceberry and redwood. The higher plains are either
immediately on the river, in which case they are generally timbered, and
have an undergrowth like that of the low grounds, with the addition of
the broad-leafed willow, gooseberry, chokecherry, purple currant, and
honeysuckle; or they are between the low grounds and the hills, and for
the most part without wood or any thing except large quantities of wild
hysop; this plant rises about two feet high, and like the willow of the
sandbars is a favourite food of the buffaloe, elk, deer, grouse,
porcupine, hare, and rabbit. This river which had been known to the
French as the Roche jaune, or as we have called it the Yellowstone,
rises according to Indian information in the Rocky mountains; its
sources are near those of the Missouri and the Platte, and it may be
navigated in canoes almost to its head. It runs first through a
mountainous country, but in many parts fertile and well timbered; it
then waters a rich delightful land, broken into vallies and meadows, and
well supplied with wood and water till it reaches near the Missouri open
meadows and low grounds, sufficiently timbered on its borders. In the
upper country its course is represented as very rapid, but during the
two last and largest portions, its current is much more gentle than that
of the Missouri, which it resembles also in being turbid though with
less sediment. The man who was sent up the river, reported in the
evening that he had gone about eight miles, that during that distance
the river winds on both sides of a plain four or five miles wide, that
the current was gentle and much obstructed by sandbars, that at five
miles he had met with a large timbered island, three miles beyond which
a creek falls in on the S.E. above a high bluff, in which are several
strata of coal. The country as far as he could discern, resembled that
of the Missouri, and in the plain he met several of the bighorn animals,
but they were too shy to be obtained. The bed of the Yellowstone, as we
observed it near the mouth, is composed of sand and mud, without a stone
of any kind. Just above the confluence we measured the two rivers, and
found the bed of the Missouri five hundred and twenty yards wide, the
water occupying only three hundred and thirty, and the channel deep:
while the Yellowstone, including its sandbar, occupied eight hundred and
fifty-eight yards, with two hundred and ninety-seven yards of water: the
deepest part of the channel is twelve feet, but the river is now falling
and seems to be nearly at its summer height.
April 27. We left the mouth of the Yellowstone. From the point of
junction a wood occupies the space between the two rivers, which at the
distance of a mile comes within two hundred and fifty yards of each
other. There a beautiful low plain commences, and widening as the rivers
recede, extends along each of them for several miles, rising about half
a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher than itself.
The low plain is a few inches above high water mark, and where it joins
the higher plain there is a channel of sixty or seventy yards in width,
through which a part of the Missouri when at its greatest height passes
into the Yellowstone. At two and a half miles above the junction and
between the high and low plain is a small lake, two hundred yards wide,
extending for a mile parallel with the Missouri along the edge of the
upper plain. At the lower extremity of this lake, about four hundred
yards from the Missouri, and twice that distance from the Yellowstone,
is a situation highly eligible for a trading establishment; it is in the
high plain which extends back three miles in width, and seven or eight
miles in length, along the Yellowstone, where it is bordered by an
extensive body of woodland, and along the Missouri with less breadth,
till three miles above it is circumscribed by the hills within a space
four yards in width. A sufficient quantity of limestone for building may
easily be procured near the junction of the rivers; it does not lie in
regular stratas, but is in large irregular masses, of a light colour and
apparently of an excellent quality. Game too is very abundant, and as
yet quite gentle; above all, its elevation recommends it as preferable
to the land at the confluence of the rivers, which their variable
channels may render very insecure. The N.W. wind rose so high at eleven
o'clock, that we were obliged to stop till about four in the afternoon,
when we proceeded till dusk. On the south a beautiful plain separates
the two rivers, till at about six miles there is a timbered piece of low
ground, and a little above it bluffs, where the country rises gradually
from the river; the situations on the north more high and open. We
encamped on that side, the wind, the sand which it raised, and the
rapidity of the current having prevented our advancing more than eight
miles; during the latter part of the day the river becomes wider and
crowded with sandbars: although the game is in such plenty we kill only
what is necessary for our subsistence. For several days past we have
seen great numbers of buffaloe lying dead along the shore, and some of
them partly devoured by the wolves; they have either sunk through the
ice during the winter, or been drowned in attempting to cross, or else,
after crossing to some high bluff, found themselves too much exhausted
either to ascend or swim back again, and perished for want of food; in
this situation we found several small parties of them. There are geese
too in abundance, and more bald-eagles than we have hitherto observed;
the nests of these last being always accompanied by those of two or
three magpies, who are their inseparable attendants.
CHAPTER VIII.
Unusual appearance of salt--The formidable character of the white
bear--Porcupine river described--Beautiful appearance of the
surrounding country--Immense quantities of game--Milk river
described--Extraordinary character of Bigdry river--An instance of
uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear--Narrow escape of one of
the party from that animal--A still more remarkable
instance--Muscleshell river described.
Sunday 28. The day was clear and pleasant, and the wind having shifted
to southeast, we could employ our sails, and went twenty-four miles to a
low ground on the north opposite to steep bluffs: the country on both
sides is much broken, the hills approaching nearer to the river, and
forming bluffs, some of a white and others of a red colour, and
exhibiting the usual appearances of minerals, and some burnt hills
though without any pumicestone; the salts are in greater quantities than
usual, and the banks and sandbars are covered with a white incrustation
like frost. The low grounds are level, fertile and partially timbered,
but are not so wide as for a few days past. The woods are now green, but
the plains and meadows seem to have less verdure than those below: the
only streams which we met to-day are two small runs on the north and one
on the south, which rise in the neighbouring hills, and have very little
water. At the distance of eighteen miles the Missouri makes a
considerable bend to the southeast: the game is very abundant, the
common, and mule or blacktailed deer, elk, buffaloe, antelope, brown
bear, beaver, and geese. The beaver have committed great devastation
among the trees, one of which, nearly three feet in diameter, has been
gnawed through by them.
Monday 29. We proceeded early with a moderate wind: captain Lewis who
was on shore with one hunter met about eight o'clock two white bears: of
the strength and ferocity of this animal, the Indians had given us
dreadful accounts: they never attack him but in parties of six or eight
persons, and even then are often defeated with the loss of one or more
of the party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad guns
with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach very
near to the bear; and as no wound except through the head or heart is
mortal, they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He
rather attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has
inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and
perform all the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a
neighbouring nation. Hitherto those we had seen did not appear desirous
of encountering us, but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is
very much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible animal: on
approaching these two, both captain Lewis and the hunter fired and each
wounded a bear: one of them made his escape; the other turned upon
captain Lewis and pursued him seventy or eighty yards, but being badly
wounded he could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his
piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot from the hunter
brought him to the ground: he was a male not quite full grown, and
weighed about three hundred pounds: the legs are somewhat longer than
those of the black bear, and the talons and tusks much larger and
longer. The testicles are also placed much farther forward and suspended
in separate pouches from two to four inches asunder, while those of the
black bear are situated back between the thighs and in a single pouch
like those of the dog: its colour is a yellowish brown, the eyes small,
black, and piercing, the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually
black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black
bear: add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable for
the wounds which it will bear without dying.
We are surrounded with deer, elk, buffaloe, antelopes, and their
companions the wolves, who have become more numerous and make great
ravages among them: the hills are here much more rough and high, and
almost overhang the banks of the river. There are greater appearances of
coal than we have hitherto seen, the stratas of it being in some places
six feet thick, and there are stratas of burnt earth, which are always
on the same level with those of coal. In the evening after coming
twenty-five miles we encamped at the entrance of a river which empties
itself into a bend on the north side of the Missouri: this stream which
we called Martha's river, is about fifty yards wide, with water for
fifteen yards, the banks are of earth, and steep, though not high, and
the bed principally of mud. Captain Clarke, who ascended it for three
miles, found that it continued of the same width with a gentle current,
and pursuing its course about north 30° west, through an extensive,
fertile, and beautiful valley, but without a single tree. The water is
clear, and has a brownish yellow tint; at this place the highlands which
yesterday and to-day had approached so near the river became lower, and
receding from the water left a valley seven or eight miles wide.
Tuesday 30. The wind was high from the north during last evening and
continued so this morning: we however continued, and found the river
more winding than usual and with a number of sand islands and bars, on
one of which last we encamped at the distance of twenty-four miles. The
low grounds are fertile and extensive but with very little timber, and
that cottonwood, very bad of its kind, being too small for planks, and
broken and dead at the top and unsound in the centre of the trunk. We
passed some ancient lodges of driftwood which do not appear to have been
lately inhabited. The game continues abundant: we killed the largest
male elk we have yet seen; on placing it in its natural erect position,
we found that it measured five feet three inches from the point of the
hoof to the top of the shoulder. The antelopes are yet lean and the
females are with young: this fleet and quick-sighted animal is generally
the victim of its curiosity: when they first see the hunters they run
with great velocity; if he lies down on the ground and lifts up his arm,
his hat, or his foot, the antelope returns on a light trot to look at
the object, and sometimes goes and returns two or three times till they
approach within reach of the rifle; so too they sometimes leave their
flock to go and look at the wolves who crouch down, and if the antelope
be frightened at first repeat the same manoeuvre, and sometimes relieve
each other till they decoy it from the party when they seize it. But
generally the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers, for
although swift of foot they are not good swimmers.
Wednesday, May 1. The wind was in our favour and we were enabled to use
the sails till twelve o'clock, when the wind became so high and squally
that we were forced to come to at the distance of ten miles on the
south, in a low ground stocked with cottonwood, and remain there during
the day; one of the canoes being separated from us, and not able to
cross over in consequence of the high waves. The country around is more
pleasant than that through which we had passed for several days, the
hills being lower, the low grounds wider and better supplied with
timber, which consists principally of cottonwood: the undergrowth willow
on the banks and sandbars, rosebushes, redwillow, and the broad-leafed
willow in the low plains, while the high country on both sides is one
extensive plain without wood, though the soil is a dark, rich, mellow
loam. Our hunters killed a buffaloe, an elk, a goat, and two beaver, and
also a bird of the plover kind.
Thursday, 2d. The wind continued high during the night, and at daylight
it began to snow and did not stop till ten o'clock, when the ground was
covered an inch deep, forming a striking contrast with the vegetation
which is now considerably advanced; some flowers having put forth, and
the cottonwood leaves as large as a dollar. The wind lulled about five
o'clock in the afternoon, and we then proceeded along wide fertile low
grounds and high level plains, and encamped at the distance of four
miles. Our game to-day was deer, elk, and buffaloe: we also procured
three beaver who are quite gentle, as they have not been hunted, but
when the hunters are in pursuit they never leave their huts during the
day: this animal we esteem a great delicacy, particularly the tail,
which when boiled resembles in flavor the flesh tongues and sounds of
the codfish, and is generally so large as to afford a plentiful meal for
two men. One of the hunters in passing near an old Indian camp found
several yards of scarlet cloth, suspended on the bough of a tree as a
sacrifice to the deity by the Assiniboins: the custom of making these
offerings being common among that people as indeed among all the Indians
on the Missouri. The air was sharp this evening; the water froze on the
oars as we rowed, and in the morning.
Friday, 3d, the weather became quite cold, the ice was a quarter of an
inch thick in the kettle, and the snow still continued on the hills
though it has melted from the plains. The wind too continued high from
the west, but not so violently as to prevent our going on. At two miles
from our encampment we passed a curious collection of bushes about
thirty feet high and ten or twelve in diameter, tied in the form of a
fascine and standing on end in the middle of the low ground: this too we
supposed to have been left by the Indians as a religious sacrifice: at
twelve o'clock the usual hour we halted for dinner. The low grounds on
the river are much wider than common, sometimes extending from five to
nine miles to the highlands, which are much lower than heretofore, not
being more than fifty or sixty feet above the lower plain: through all
this valley traces of the ancient bed of the river are every where
visible, and since the hills have become lower, the stratas of coal,
burnt earth, and pumicestone have in a great measure ceased, there
being in fact none to-day. At the distance of fourteen miles we reached
the mouth of a river on the north, which from the unusual number of
porcupines near it, we called Porcupine river. This is a bold and
beautiful stream one hundred and twelve yards wide, though the water is
only forty yards at its entrance: captain Clarke who ascended it several
miles and passed it above where it enters the highlands, found it
continued nearly of the same width and about knee deep, and as far as he
could distinguish for twenty miles from the hills, its course was from a
little to the east of north. There was much timber on the low grounds:
he found some limestone also on the surface of the earth in the course
of his walk, and saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the west
of north, whose direction was northwest; the adjoining country being
every where level, fertile, open, and exceedingly beautiful. The water
of this river is transparent, and is the only one that is so of all
those that fall into the Missouri: before entering a large sandbar
through which it discharges itself, its low grounds are formed of a
stiff blue and black clay, and its banks which are from eight to ten
feet high and seldom if ever overflow are composed of the same
materials. From the quantity of water which this river contains, its
direction, and the nature of the country through which it passes, it is
not improbable that its sources may be near the main body of the
Saskaskawan, and as in high water it can be no doubt navigated to a
considerable distance, it may be rendered the means of intercourse with
the Athabasky country, from which the northwest company derive so many
of their valuable furs.
A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, to
which on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we gave
it the name of Two-thousand mile creek: it is a bold stream with a bed
thirty yards wide. Three miles and a half above Porcupine river, we
reached some high timber on the north, and encamped just above an old
channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of
buffaloe, elk, deer, principally of the long tailed kind, antelopes,
beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. The porcupines too are
numerous, and so careless and clumsy that we can approach very near
without disturbing them as they are feeding on the young willows;
towards evening we also found for the first time, the nest of a goose
among some driftwood, all that we have hitherto seen being on the top of
a broken tree on the forks, and invariably from fifteen to twenty feet
or more in height.
Saturday 4. We were detained till nine in order to repair the rudder of
one of the boats, and when we set out the wind was ahead; at six and a
half miles we passed a small creek in a deep bend on the south with a
sand island opposite to it, and then passing along an extensive plain
which gradually rises from the north side of the river, encamped at the
distance of eighteen miles in a point of woodland on the north: the
river is this day wider than usual, and crowded with sandbars on all
sides: the country is level, fertile, and beautiful, the low grounds
extensive and contain a much greater portion of timber than is common:
indeed all the forepart of the day the river was bordered with timber on
both sides, a circumstance very rare on the Missouri, and the first that
has occurred since we left the Mandans. There are as usual vast
quantities of game, and extremely gentle; the male buffaloe particularly
will scarcely give way to us, and as we approach will merely look at us
for a moment, as something new, and then quietly resume their feeding.
In the course of the day we passed some old Indian hunting camps, one of
which consisted of two large lodges fortified with a circular fence,
twenty or thirty feet in diameter, and made of timber laid horizontally,
the beams overlaying each other to the height of five feet, and covered
with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river: the
lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks about the
size of a man's leg or arm, and twelve feet long, which are attached at
the top by a whith of small willows, and spreading out so as to form at
the base a circle of ten or fourteen feet in diameter: against these are
placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three ranges
one on the other, and the interstices are covered with leaves, bark, and
straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet high, with a small
aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at best a very
imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons.
Sunday 5. We had a fine morning, and the wind being from the east we
used our sails. At the distance of five miles we came to a small island,
and twelve miles farther encamped on the north, at the distance of
seventeen miles. The country like that of yesterday is beautiful in the
extreme. Among the vast quantities of game around us, we distinguish a
small species of goose differing considerably from the common Canadian
goose; its neck, head, and beak, being much thicker, larger, and shorter
in proportion to its size, which is nearly a third smaller; the noise
too resembling more that of the brant or of a young goose that has not
yet fully acquired its note; in other respects its colour, habits, and
the number of feathers in the tail, the two species correspond; this
species also associates in flocks with the large geese, but we have not
seen it pair off with them. The white brant is about the size of the
common brown brant, or two thirds of the common goose, than which it is
also six inches shorter from the extremity of the wings, though the
beak, head, and neck are larger and stronger: the body and wings are of
a beautiful pure white, except the black feathers of the first and
second joints of the wings; the beak and legs are of a reddish or
flesh-coloured white, the eye of a moderate size, the pupil of a deep
sea-green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown, the tail consists of
sixteen feathers equally long, the flesh is dark and as well as its note
differs but little from those of the common brant, whom in form and
habits it resembles, and with whom it sometimes unites in a common
flock; the white brant also associate by themselves in large flocks, but
as they do not seem to be mated or paired off, it is doubtful whether
they reside here during the summer for the purpose of rearing their
young.
The wolves are also very abundant, and are of two species. First, the
small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies, which are found in almost
all the open plains. It is of an intermediate size between the fox and
dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. The ears are large,
erect, and pointed, the head long and pointed, like that of the fox; the
tail long and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish brown colour,
though much coarser than that of the fox; the eye of a deep sea-green
colour, small and piercing; the talons rather longer than those of the
wolf of the Atlantic states, which animal as far as we can perceive is
not to be found on this side of the river Platte. These wolves usually
associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely if ever seen alone,
not being able singly to attack a deer or antelope. They live and rear
their young in burrows, which they fix near some pass or spot much
frequented by game, and sally out in a body against any animal which
they think they can overpower, but on the slightest alarm retreat to
their burrows making a noise exactly like that of a small dog.
The second species is lower, shorter in the legs and thicker than the
Atlantic wolf; their colour, which is not affected by the seasons, is of
every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish brown to a cream
coloured white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl, and they
frequent the woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the
buffaloe herds, in order to attack the weary or wounded.
Captain Clarke and one of the hunters met this evening the largest brown
bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, but fled
with a most tremendous roar, and such was its extraordinary tenacity of
life, that although he had five balls passed through his lungs and five
other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to a sandbar, and
survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six hundred pounds
at least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose
to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and half round
the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, one foot eleven
inches round the middle of the foreleg, and his talons, five on each
foot, were four inches and three eighths in length. It differs from the
common black bear in having its talons much longer and more blunt; its
tail shorter; its hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer, and
more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart, much larger even in
proportion to his size, the heart particularly being equal to that of a
large ox; his maw ten times larger; his testicles pendant from the belly
and in separate pouches four inches apart: besides fish and flesh he
feeds on roots, and every kind of wild fruit.
The antelope are now lean and with young, so that they may readily be
caught at this season, as they cross the river from S.W. to N.E.
Monday 6. The morning being fair and the wind favourable, we set sail,
and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day. The country
continues level, rich, and beautiful; the low grounds wide and
comparatively with the other parts of the Missouri, well supplied with
wood. The appearances of coal, pumicestone, and burnt earth have ceased,
though the salts of tartar or vegetable salts continue on the banks and
sandbars, and sometimes in the little ravines at the base of the low
hills. We passed three streams on the south; the first at the distance
of one mile and a half from our camp was about twenty-five yards wide,
but although it contained some water in standing pools it discharges
none; this we called Littledry creek, about eight miles beyond which is
Bigdry creek; fifty yards wide, without any water; the third is six
miles further, and has the bed of a large river two hundred yards wide,
yet without a drop of water: like the other two this stream, which we
called Bigdry river, continues its width undiminished as far as we can
discern. The banks are low, this channel formed of a fine brown sand,
intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles of various colours,
and the country around flat and without trees. They had recently
discharged their waters, and from their appearance and the nature of the
country through which they pass, we concluded that they rose in the
Black mountains, or in the level low plains which are probably between
this place and the mountains; that the country being nearly of the same
kind and of the same latitude, the rains of spring melting the snows
about the same time, conspire with them to throw at once vast quantities
of water down these channels, which are then left dry during the summer,
autumn, and winter, when there is very little rain. We had to-day a
slight sprinkling. But it lasted a very short time. The game is in such
plenty that it has become a mere amusement to supply the party with
provisions. We made twenty-five miles to a clump of trees on the north
where we passed the night.
Tuesday 7. The morning was pleasant and we proceeded at an early hour.
There is much driftwood floating, and what is contrary to our
expectation, although the river is rising, the water is somewhat clearer
than usual. At eleven o'clock the wind became so high that one of the
boats was nearly sunk, and we were obliged to stop till one, when we
proceeded on, and encamped on the south, above a large sandbar
projecting from the north, having made fifteen miles. On the north side
of the river are the most beautiful plains we have yet seen: they rise
gradually from the low grounds on the water to the height of fifty or
sixty feet, and then extend in an unbroken level as far as the eye can
reach: the hills on the south are more broken and higher, though at some
distance back the country becomes level and fertile. There are no more
appearances of burnt earth, coal, or pumicestone, though that of salt
still continues, and the vegetation seems to have advanced but little
since the twenty-eighth of last month: the game is as abundant as usual.
The bald-eagles, of whom we see great numbers, probably feed on the
carcases of dead animals, for on the whole Missouri we have seen neither
the blue-crested fisher, nor the fishing-hawks, to supply them with
their favourite food, and the water of the river is so turbid that no
bird which feeds exclusively on fish can procure a subsistence.
Wednesday 8. A light breeze from the east carried us sixteen miles, till
we halted for dinner at the entrance of a river on the north. Captain
Clarke who had walked on the south, on ascending a high point opposite
to its entrance discovered a level and beautiful country which it
watered; that its course for twelve or fifteen miles was N.W. when it
divided into two nearly equal branches, one pursuing a direction nearly
north, the other to the W. of N.W: its width at the entrance is one
hundred and fifty yards, and on going three miles up, captain Lewis
found it to be of the same breadth, and sometimes more; it is deep,
gentle, and has a large quantity of water; its bed is principally of
mud, the banks abrupt, about twelve feet in height, and formed of a
dark, rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and
fertile, and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow.
It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes, and this circumstance
joined to its course and the quantity of water, which indicates that it
passes through a large extent of country, we are led to presume that it
may approach the Saskashawan and afford a communication with that river.
The water has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a
tablespoon full of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced
us to call it Milk river. In the evening we had made twenty-seven miles,
and encamped on the south. The country on that side consists in general
of high broken hills, with much gray, black and brown granite scattered
over the surface of the ground. At a little distance from the river
there is no timber on either side, the wood being confined as below to
the margin of the river; so that unless the contrary is particularly
mentioned, it is always understood that the upland is perfectly naked,
and that we consider the low grounds well timbered if even a fifth be
covered with wood. The wild liquorice is found in great abundance on
these hills, as is also the white apple. As usual we are surrounded by
buffaloe, elk, common and blacktailed deer, beaver, antelopes and
wolves. We observed a place where an Indian had recently taken the hair
off an antelope's skin, and some of the party thought they distinguished
imperfectly some smoke and Indian lodges up Milk river, marks which we
are by no means desirous of realizing, as the Indians are probably
Assiniboins, and might be very troublesome.
Thursday, 9th. We again had a favourable wind and sailed along very
well. Between four and five miles we passed a large island in a deep
bend to the north, and a large sandbar at the upper point. At fifteen
and a quarter miles we reached the bed of a most extraordinary river
which presents itself on the south: though as wide as the Missouri
itself, that is about half a mile, it does not discharge a drop of water
and contains nothing but a few standing pools. On ascending it three
miles we found an eminence from which we saw the direction of the
channel, first south for ten or twelve miles, then turning to the east
of southeast as far as we could see; it passes through a wide valley
without timber, and the surrounding country consists of waving low hills
interspersed with some handsome level plains; the banks are abrupt and
consist of a black or yellow clay; or of a rich sandy loam, but though
they do not rise more than six or eight feet above the bed, they exhibit
no appearance of being overflowed: the bed is entirely composed of a
light brown sand, the particles of which like those of the Missouri are
extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we passed before, this seemed to
have discharged its waters recently, but the watermark indicated that
its greatest depth had not been more than two feet: this stream, if it
deserve the name, we called Bigdry river. About a mile below is a large
creek on the same side, which is also perfectly dry: the mineral salts
and quartz are in large quantities near this neighbourhood. The sand of
the Missouri from its mouth to this place has been mixed with a
substance which we had presumed to be a granulated chalk, but which is
most probably this quartz. The game is now in great quantities,
particularly the elk and buffaloe, which last is so gentle that the men
are obliged to drive them out of the way with sticks and stones. The
ravages of the beaver are very apparent: in one place the timber was
entirely prostrated for a space of three acres in front on the river and
one in depth, and great part of it removed, although the trees were in
large quantities, and some of them as thick as the body of a man. At the
distance of twenty-four miles we encamped, after making twenty-five and
a half miles, at the entrance of a small creek in a bend on the north;
to which we gave the name of Werner's creek after one of our men.
For several days past the river has been as wide as it generally is near
its mouth, but as it is much shallower, crowded with sandbars, and the
colour of the water has become much clearer, we do not yet despair of
reaching the Rock mountains, for which we are very anxious.
Friday, 10th. We had not proceeded more than four and a quarter miles
when the violence of the wind forced us to halt for the day under some
timber in a bend on the south side. The wind continued high, the clouds
thick and black, and we had a slight sprinkling of rain several times in
the course of the day. Shortly after our landing a dog came to us, and
as this induced us to believe that we are near the hunting grounds of
the Assiniboins, who are a vicious ill-disposed people, it was
necessary to be on our guard: we therefore inspected our arms which we
found in good order, and sent several hunters to scour the country, but
they returned in the evening having seen no tents, nor any recent tracks
of Indians. Biles and imposthumes are very common among the party, and
sore eyes continue in a greater or less degree with all of us; for the
imposthumes we use emollient poultices, and apply to the eyes a solution
of two grains of white vitriol and one of sugar of lead with one ounce
of water.
Saturday, 11th. The wind blew very hard in the night, but having abated
this morning we went on very well, till in the afternoon the wind arose
and retarded our progress; the current too was strong, the river very
crooked, and the banks as usual constantly precipitating themselves in
large masses into the water. The highlands are broken and approach
nearer the river than they do below. The soil however of both hills and
low grounds appear as fertile as that further down the river: it
consists of a black looking loam with a small portion of sand, which
cover the hills and bluffs to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, and
when thrown in the water dissolves as readily as loaf-sugar, and
effervesces like marle; there are also great appearances of quartz and
mineral salts: the first is most commonly seen in the faces of the
bluffs, the second is found on the hills as well as the low grounds, and
in the gullies which come down from the hills; it lies in a crust of two
or three inches in depth, and may be swept up with a feather in large
quantities. There is no longer any appearance of coal burnt earth or
pumicestone. We saw and visited some high hills on the north side about
three miles from the river, whose tops were covered with the pitch-pine:
this in the first pine we have seen on the Missouri, and it is like that
of Virginia, except that the leaves are somewhat longer; among this pine
is also a dwarf cedar, sometimes between three or four feet high, but
generally spreading itself like a vine along the surface of the earth,
which it covers very closely, putting out roots from the under side. The
fruit and smell resemble those of the common red cedar, but the leaf is
finer and more delicate. The tops of the hills where these plants grow
have a soil quite different from that just described, the basis of it is
usually yellow or white clay, and the general appearance light coloured,
sandy, and barren, some scattering tufts of sedge being almost its only
herbage. About five in the afternoon one of our men who had been
afflicted with biles, and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the
boats with loud cries and every symptom of terror and distress: for some
time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath as to
be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety, but he at length told us
that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear which
immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear being
badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis with seven men
immediately went in search of him, and having found his track followed
him by the blood for a mile, and found him concealed in some thick
brushwood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though
somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, he was a monstrous
animal and a most terrible enemy: our man had shot him through the
centre of the lungs, yet he had pursued him furiously for half a mile,
then returned more than twice that distance, and with his talons had
prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long,
and was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two
hours after he received the wound. The wonderful power of life which
these animals possess render them dreadful: their very track in the mud
or sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and
a quarter wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather
encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance
of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the
brains, and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles
which cover the side of the forehead, and the sharp projection of the
centre of the frontal bone, which is also thick. Our encampment was on
the south at the distance of sixteen miles from that of last night; the
fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men, and the oil
amounted to eight gallons.
Sunday, 12th. The weather being clear and calm, we set out early. Within
a mile we came to a small creek, about twenty yards wide, emptying
itself on the south. At eleven and three quarter miles we reached a
point of woodland on the south, opposite to which is a creek of the same
width as the last, but with little water, which we called Pine creek. At
eighteen and three quarter miles we came to on the south opposite to the
lower point of a willow island, situated in a deep bend of the river to
the southeast: here we remained during the day, the wind having risen at
twelve so high that we could not proceed: it continued to blow violently
all night, with occasional sprinklings of rain from sunset till
midnight. On both sides of the river the country is rough and broken,
the low grounds becoming narrower; the tops of the hills on the north
exhibits some scattered pine and cedar, on the south the pine has not
yet commenced, though there is some cedar on the sides of the hills and
in the little ravines. The chokecherry, the wild hysop, sage,
fleshy-leafed thorn, and particularly the aromatic herb on which the
antelope and hare feed, are to be found on the plains and hills. The
soil of the hills has now altered its texture considerably: their bases,
like that of the river plains, is as usual a rich, black loam, while
from the middle to the summits they are composed of a light
brown-coloured earth, poor and sterile, and intermixed with a coarse
white sand.
Monday, 13th. The wind was so strong that we could not proceed till
about one o'clock, when we had to encounter a current rather stronger
than usual. In the course of a mile and a half we passed two small
creeks on the south, one of eighteen the other of thirty yards width,
but neither of them containing any water, and encamped on the south at a
point of woodland, having made only seven miles. The country is much the
same as yesterday, with little timber in the low grounds, and a small
quantity of pine and cedar on the northern hills. The river however
continues to grow clearer, and this as well as the increased rapidity
induces us to hope for some change of country. The game is as usual so
abundant that we can get without difficulty all that is necessary.
Tuesday, 14th. There was some fog on the river this morning, which is a
very rare occurrence. At the distance of a mile and a half we reached an
island in a bend on the north, which continued for about half a mile,
when at the head of it a large creek comes in on the north, to which we
gave the name of Gibson's creek. At seven and a half miles is a point of
rocks on the south, above a creek on the same side, which we called
Sticklodge creek: five miles further is a large creek on the south,
which like the two others has no running water; and at sixteen and a
half miles a timbered point on the north, where we encamped for the
night. The country is like that of yesterday, except that the low
grounds are wider; there are also many high black bluffs along the
banks: the game too is in great abundance. Towards evening the men in
the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the open
grounds, about three hundred paces from the river: six of them, all good
hunters, immediately went to attack him, and concealing themselves by a
small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him: four of the
hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball in his body, two of them
directly through the lungs: the furious animal sprung up and ran
openmouthed upon them; as he came near, the two hunters who had reserved
their fire gave him two wounds, one of which breaking his shoulder
retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could reload he was so
near that they were obliged to run to the river, and before they
reached it he had almost overtaken them: two jumped into the canoe; the
other four separated, and concealing themselves in the willows fired as
fast as each could reload: they struck him several times, but instead of
weakening the monster each shot seemed only to direct him towards the
hunter, till at last he pursued two of them so closely, that they threw
aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of
twenty feet into the river; the bear sprang after them, and was within a
few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him in
the head and finally killed him: they dragged him to the shore, and
found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions;
the bear was old and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only,
and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified by an
accident of a different kind. This was the narrow escape of one of our
canoes containing all our papers, instruments, medicine, and almost
every article indispensible for the success of our enterprise. The canoe
being under sail, a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely, and
turned her considerably. The man at the helm, who was unluckily the
worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, and instead of putting her
before the wind luffed her up into it. The wind was so high that it
forced the brace of the squaresail out of the hand of the man who was
attending it, and instantly upset the canoe, which would have turned
bottom upwards but for the resistance made by the awning. Such was the
confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, that it was half a minute
before she righted, and then nearly full of water, but by baling out she
was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore; besides the loss of the
lives of three men who not being able to swim would probably have
perished, we should have been deprived of nearly every thing necessary
for our purpose, at a distance of between two and three thousand miles
from any place where we could supply the deficiency.
Wednesday 15. As soon as a slight shower of rain had passed, we spread
out the articles to dry; but the weather was so damp and cloudy that
they derived little benefit from exposure. Our hunters procured us deer,
buffaloe, and beaver.
Thursday 16. The morning was fair and we were enabled to dry and repack
our stores: the loss we sustained is chiefly in the medicines, many
articles of which are completely spoiled, and others considerably
injured. At four o'clock we embarked, and after making seven miles
encamped on the north near some wood: the country on both sides is
broken, the low grounds narrower and with less timber, though there are
some scattered pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the hills,
which are now higher than usual. A white bear tore the coat of one of
the men which he had left on shore; and two of the party wounded a large
panther who was feasting on a deer. We caught some lean antelopes as
they were swimming the river, and killed two buffaloe.
Friday 17. We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being
firm and the shore bold we were enabled to use the towline, which,
whenever the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious
mode of ascending the river, except under a sail with a steady breeze.
At the distance of ten and a half miles we came to the mouth of a small
creek on the south, below which the hills approach the river, and
continue near it during the day: three miles further is a large creek on
the north, and again six and three quarter miles beyond it, another
large creek to the south, which contain a small quantity of running
water of a brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake creek from our
seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be observed on it
from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities of driftwood, among
which were some pieces of coal brought down by the stream. We continued
on one mile and a quarter, and encamped on the south, after making
twenty and a half miles. The country in general is rugged, the hills
high, with their summits and sides partially covered with pine and
cedar, and their bases on both sides washed by the river: like those
already mentioned the lower part of these hills is a dark rich loam,
while the upper region for one hundred and fifty feet consists of a
whitish brown sand, so hard as in many places to resemble stone, though
in fact very little stone or rock of any kind is to be seen on the
hills. The bed of the Missouri is much narrower than usual, being not
more than between two and three hundred yards in width, with an
uncommonly large proportion of gravel; but the sandbars, and low points
covered with willows have almost entirely disappeared: the timber on the
river consists of scarcely any thing more than a few scattered
cottonwood trees. The saline incrustations along the banks and the foot
of the hills are more abundant than usual. The game is in great
quantities, but the buffaloe are not so numerous as they were some days
ago: two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of them killed: it
resembles those of the middle Atlantic states, being about two feet six
inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, variegated with
a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the back from the
neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of the same
colour on the sides along the edge of the scuta: there are one hundred
and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail. Captain
Clarke saw in his excursions a fortified Indian camp which appeared to
have been recently occupied, and was, we presumed, made by a party of
Minnetarees who went to war last March.
Late at night we were roused by the sergeant of the guard in consequence
of a fire which had communicated to a tree overhanging our camp. The
wind was so high, that we had not removed the camp more than a few
minutes when a large part of the tree fell precisely on the spot it had
occupied, and would have crushed us if we had not been alarmed in time.
Saturday 18. The wind continued high from the west, but by means of the
towline we were able to make nineteen miles, the sandbars being now few
in number, the river narrow and the current gentle; the willow has in a
great measure disappeared, and even the cottonwood, almost the only
timber remaining, is growing scarce. At twelve and three quarter miles
we came to a creek on the north, which was perfectly dry. We encamped on
the south opposite the lower point of an island.
Sunday 19. The last night was disagreeably cold; and in the morning
there was a very heavy fog which obscured the river so much as to
prevent our seeing the way. This is the first fog of any degree of
thickness which we have experienced: there was also last evening a fall
of dew, the second which we have seen since entering this extensive open
country. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed, and we proceeded with
the aid of the towline: the island near which we were encamped, was
three quarters of a mile in length. The country resembles that of
yesterday, high hills closely bordering the river. In the afternoon the
river became crooked, and contained more sawyers or floating timber than
we have seen in the same space since leaving the Platte. Our game
consisted of deer, beaver, and elk: we also killed a brown bear, who,
although shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter
of a mile before he fell. At twenty-one miles is a willow island half a
mile in length, on the north side, a quarter of a mile beyond which is a
shoal of rapid water under a bluff: the water continued very strong for
some distance beyond it: at half a mile we came to a sandbar on the
north, from which to our place of encampment was another half mile,
making in all twenty-two and a quarter miles. The saline substances
which we have mentioned continue to appear; and the men are much
afflicted with sore eyes and imposthumes.
Monday 20. As usual we set out early, and the banks being convenient for
that purpose, we used the towline: the river is narrow and crooked, the
water rapid, and the country much like that of yesterday: at the
distance of two and a quarter miles we passed a large creek with but
little water, to which we gave the name of Blowingfly creek, from the
quantity of those insects found in its neighbourhood. They are extremely
troublesome, infesting our meat whilst cooking and at our meals. After
making seven miles we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large
river on the south, and encamped for the day at the upper point of its
junction with the Missouri. This stream which we suppose to be that
called by the Minnetarees the Muscleshell river, empties into the
Missouri two thousand two hundred and seventy miles above the mouth of
the latter river, and in latitude 47° 0' 24" 6 north. It is one hundred
and ten yards wide, and contains more water than streams of that size
usually do in this country; its current is by no means rapid, and there
is every appearance of its being susceptible of navigation by canoes for
a considerable distance: its bed is chiefly formed of coarse sand and
gravel, with an occasional mixture of black mud; the banks abrupt and
nearly twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being overflowed:
the water is of a greenish yellow cast and much more transparent than
that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer than below, still
retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment. Opposite to the
point of junction the current of the Missouri is gentle, and two hundred
and twenty-two yards in width, the bed principally of mud (the little
sand remaining being wholly confined to the points) and still too deep
to use the setting pole. If this be, as we suppose, the Muscleshell, our
Indian information is, that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky
mountains not far from the sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its
course to this place it waters a high broken country, well timbered
particularly on its borders, and interspersed with handsome fertile
plains and meadows. We have reason, however, to believe, from their
giving a similar account of the timber where we now are, that the
timber of which they speak is similar to that which we have seen for a
few days past, which consists of nothing more than a few straggling
small pine and dwarf cedar, on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths of
the ground being totally destitute of wood, and covered with a short
grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity of prickly pears: though
the party who explored it for eight miles represented low grounds on the
river as well supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an
excellent soil. They also reported that the country is broken and
irregular like that near our camp; that about five miles up a handsome
river about fifty yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau's wife,
Sahcajahweah, or Birdwoman's river, discharges itself into the
Muscleshell on the north or upper side. Another party found at the foot
of the southern hills, about four miles from the Missouri, a fine bold
spring, which in this country is so rare that since we left the Mandans
we have found only one of a similar kind, and that was under the bluffs
on the south side of the Missouri, at some distance from it, and about
five miles below the Yellowstone: with this exception all the small
fountains of which we have met a number are impregnated with the salts
which are so abundant here, and with which the Missouri is itself most
probably tainted, though to us who have been so much accustomed to it,
the taste is not perceptible. Among the game to-day we observed two
large owls, with remarkably long feathers resembling ears on the sides
of the head, which we presume are the hooting owls, though they are
larger and their colours are brighter than those common in the United
States.
Tuesday 21. The morning being very fine we were able to employ the rope
and made twenty miles to our camp on the north. The shores of the river
are abrupt, bold and composed of a black and yellow clay, the bars being
formed of black mud, and a small proportion of fine sand; the current
strong. In its course the Missouri makes a sudden and extensive bend
towards the south, to receive the waters of the Muscleshell. The neck of
land thus formed, though itself high is lower than the surrounding
country, and makes a waving valley extending for a great distance to the
northward, with a fertile soil which, though without wood, produces a
fine turf of low grass, some herbs and vast quantities of prickly pear.
The country on the south is high, broken, and crowned with some pine and
dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine is longer than that of the common
pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone is longer and narrower, the
imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently covered with
rosin. During the whole day the bends of the river are short and sudden;
and the points covered with some cottonwood, large or broad leaved
willow, and a small quantity of redwood; the undergrowth consisting of
wild roses, and the bushes of the small honeysuckle.
The mineral appearances on the river are as usual. We do not find the
grouse or prairie hen so abundant as below, and think it probable that
they retire from the river to the plains during this season.
The wind had been moderate during the fore part of the day, but
continued to rise towards evening, and about dark veered to northeast,
and blew a storm all night. We had encamped on a bar on the north,
opposite the lower point of an island, which from this circumstance we
called Windy island; but we were so annoyed by clouds of dust and sand
that we could neither eat nor sleep, and were forced to remove our camp
at eight o'clock to the foot of an adjoining hill, which shielded us in
some degree from the wind: we procured elk, deer, and buffaloe.
Wednesday 22. The wind blew so violently that it was deemed prudent to
wait till it had abated, so that we did not leave the camp till ten
o'clock, when we proceeded principally by the towline. We passed Windy
island which is about three quarters of a mile in length: and five and a
half miles above it a large island in a bend to the north: three miles
beyond this we came to the entrance of a creek twenty yards wide, though
with little water, which we called Grouse creek, from observing near its
mouth a quantity of the prairie hen with pointed tails, the first we
have seen in such numbers for several days: the low grounds are somewhat
wider than usual and apparently fertile, though the short and scanty
grass on the hills does not indicate much richness of soil. The country
around is not so broken as that of yesterday, but is still waving, the
southern hills possessing more pine than usual, and some appearing on
the northern hills, which are accompanied by the usual salt and mineral
appearances.
The river continues about two hundred and fifty yards wide, with fewer
sandbars, and the current more gentle and regular. Game is no longer in
such abundance, since leaving the Muscleshell. We have caught very few
fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were the white catfish of
two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear: we have not seen in
this quarter the black bear, common in the United States and on the
lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any of their tracks,
which may easily be distinguished by the shortness of its talons from
the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the same
family, which assumes those colours at different seasons of the year. We
halted earlier than usual, and encamped on the north, in a point of
woods, at the distance of sixteen and a half miles.
CHAPTER IX.
The party continue their route--description of Judith river--Indian
mode of taking the buffaloe--Slaughter river described--phenomena
of nature--of walls on the banks of the Missouri--the party encamp
on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the streams
constitute the Missouri--captain Lewis leaves the party to explore
the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores the southern--the
surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis--narrow
escape of one of his party.
Thursday 23. Last night the frost was severe, and this morning the ice
appeared along the edges of the river, and the water froze on our oars.
At the distance of a mile we passed the entrance of a creek on the
north, which we named Teapot creek; it is fifteen yards wide, and
although it has running water at a small distance from its mouth, yet it
discharges none into the Missouri, resembling, we believe, most of the
creeks in this hilly country, the waters of which are absorbed by the
thirsty soil near the river. They indeed afford but little water in any
part, and even that is so strongly tainted with salts that it is unfit
for use, though all the wild animals are very fond of it. On experiment
it was found to be moderately purgative, but painful to the intestines
in its operation. This creek seems to come from a range of low hills,
which run from east to west for seventy miles, and have their eastern
extremity thirty miles to the north of Teapot creek. Just above its
entrance is a large assemblage of the burrowing squirrels on the north
side of the river. At nine miles we reached the upper point of an island
in a bend on the south, and opposite the centre of the island, a small
dry creek on the north. Half a mile further a small creek falls in on
the same side; and six and a half miles beyond this another on the
south. At four and a half we passed a small island in a deep bend to
the north, and on the same side in a deep northeastern bend of the river
another small island. None of these creeks however possessed any water,
and at the entrances of the islands, the two first are covered with tall
cottonwood timber, and the last with willows only. The river has become
more rapid, the country much the same as yesterday, except that there is
rather more rocks on the face of the hills, and some small spruce pine
appears among the pitch. The wild roses are very abundant and now in
bloom; they differ from those of the United States only in having the
leaves and the bush itself of a somewhat smaller size. We find the
musquitoes troublesome, notwithstanding the coolness of the morning. The
buffaloe is scarce to-day, but the elk, deer, and antelope, are very
numerous. The geese begin to lose the feathers of the wings, and are
unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of which we wounded, but in
swimming from us across the river, he become entangled in some driftwood
and sank. We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a point
of wood in a bend to the south, having made twenty-seven miles.
Friday 24. The water in the kettles froze one eighth of an inch during
the night; the ice appears along the margin of the river, and the
cottonwood trees which have lost nearly all their leaves by the frost,
are putting forth other buds. We proceeded with the line principally
till about nine o'clock, when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.E. and
enabled us to sail very well, notwithstanding the rapidity of the
current. At one mile and a half is a large creek thirty yards wide, and
containing some water which it empties on the north side, over a
gravelly bed, intermixed with some stone. A man who was sent up to
explore the country returned in the evening, after having gone ten miles
directly towards the ridge of mountains to the north, which is the
source of this as well as of Teapot creek. The air of these highlands is
so pure, that objects appear much nearer than they really are, so that
although our man went ten miles without thinking himself by any means
half way to the mountains, they do not from the river appear more than
fifteen miles distant; this stream we called Northmountain creek. Two
and a half miles higher is a creek on the south which is fifteen yards
wide, but without any water, and to which we gave the name of Littledog
creek, from a village of burrowing squirrels opposite to its entrance,
that being the name given by the French watermen to those animals. Three
miles from this a small creek enters on the north, five beyond which is
an island a quarter of a mile in length, and two miles further a small
river: this falls in on the south, is forty yards wide, and discharges a
handsome stream of water; its bed rocky with gravel and sand, and the
banks high: we called it Southmountain creek, as from its direction it
seemed to rise in a range of mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the
S.W. of its entrance. The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the
country high and broken; a large portion of black rock, and brown sandy
rock appears in the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered
with scattered pine, spruce and dwarf cedar: the soil is generally poor,
sandy near the tops of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the
low grounds being covered with little else than the hysop, or southern
wood, and the pulpy-leafed thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly
beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days, and the
abundance or scarcity of which seems to depend on the greater or less
quantity of timber. At twenty-four and a half miles we reached a point
of woodland on the south, where we observed that the trees had no
leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country through which we
have passed for some days, and where we now are, we suppose to be a
continuation of what the French traders called the Cote Noire or Black
hills. The country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular
hills and short chains of mountains; sometimes one hundred and twenty
miles in width, sometimes narrower, but always much higher than the
country on either side. They commence about the head of the Kanzas,
where they diverge; the first ridge going westward, along the northern
shore of the Arkansaw; the second approaches the Rock mountains
obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N.W. and after passing the
Platte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone near the
Bigbend, crosses the Missouri at this place, and probably swell the
country as far as the Saskashawan, though as they are represented much
smaller here than to the south, they may not reach that river.
Saturday, 25th. Two canoes which were left behind yesterday to bring on
the game, did not join us till eight o'clock this morning, when we set
out with the towline, the use of which the banks permitted. The wind
was, however, ahead, the current strong, particularly round the points
against which it happened to set, and the gullies from the hills having
brought down quantities of stone, those projected into the river,
forming barriers for forty or fifty feet round, which it was very
difficult to pass. At the distance of two and three quarter miles we
passed a small island in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side
a creek twenty yards wide, but with no running water. About a mile
further is an island between two and three miles in length, separated
from the northern shore by a narrow channel, in which is a sand island
at the distance of half a mile from its lower extremity. To this large
island we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which is an
island a mile long, and situated on the south. At three and a half miles
is another small island, and one mile beyond it a second three quarters
of a mile in length, on the north side. In the middle of the river two
miles above this is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as
this last. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock
being either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of
limestone, or else a hard black rugged granite, both usually in
horizontal stratas, and the sandrock overlaying the other. Salts and
quartz as well as some coal and pumicestone still appear: the bars of
the river are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are
narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the
hills. The buffaloe have now become scarce: we saw a polecat this
evening, which was the first for several days: in the course of the day
we also saw several herds of the big-horned animals among the steep
cliffs on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance of
eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the next morning,
Sunday, 26th, proceeded on at an early hour by means of the towline,
using our oars merely in passing the river, to take advantage of the
best banks. There are now scarcely any low grounds on the river, the
hills being high and in many places pressing on both sides to the verge
of the water. The black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone,
which seems to be washed away fast by the river, and being thrown into
the river renders its navigation more difficult than it was yesterday:
above this sandstone, and towards the summits of the hills, a hard
freestone of a yellowish brown colour shows itself in several stratas of
unequal thickness, frequently overlaid or incrusted by a thin stratum of
limestone, which seems to be formed of concreted shells. At eight and a
quarter miles we came to the mouth of a creek on the north, thirty yards
wide, with some running water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor
creek, after one of the party. Four and three quarter miles beyond this
we came to another creek in a bend to the north, which is twenty yards
wide, with a handsome little stream of water: there is however no timber
on either side of the river, except a few pines on the hills. Here we
saw for the first time since we left the Mandans several soft shelled
turtles, though this may be owing rather to the season of the year than
to any scarcity of the animal. It was here that after ascending the
highest summits of the hills on the north side of the river, that
captain Lewis first caught a distant view of the Rock mountains, the
object of all our hopes, and the reward of all our ambition. On both
sides of the river and at no great distance from it, the mountains
followed its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles from
us, an irregular range of mountains spread themselves from west to
northwest from his position. To the north of these a few elevated
points, the most remarkable of which bore north 65° west, appeared above
the horizon, and as the sun shone on the snows of their summits he
obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains which close on
the Missouri the passage to the Pacific. Four and a half miles beyond
this creek we came to the upper point of a small sand island. At the
distance of five miles between high bluffs, we passed a very difficult
rapid, reaching quite across the river, where the water is deep, the
channel narrow, and gravel obstructing it on each side: we had great
difficulty in ascending it, although we used both the rope and the pole,
and doubled the crews: this is the most considerable rapid on the
Missouri, and in fact the only place where there is a sudden descent: as
we were labouring over them, a female elk with its fawn swam down
through the waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place the
name of the Elk Rapids. Just above them is a small low ground of
cottonwood trees, where, at twenty-two and a quarter miles we fixed our
encampment, and were joined by captain Lewis, who had been on the hills
during the afternoon.
The country has now become desert and barren: the appearances of coal,
burnt earth, pumicestone, salts, and quartz, continue as yesterday: but
there is no timber except the thinly scattered pine and spruce on the
summits of the hills, or along the sides. The only animals we have
observed are the elk,